Messages

31

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Direct drive

« on: February 12, 2016, 09:58:58 AM »

I can tell you from experience that with a pedal clutch and a blown alky small block you will not be happy with a direct drive setup if you intend to race it.  You will not make enough power to get it to launch well.
Steve K.

 Is that still a problem if I was slipping the clutch, I know Top Fuel slip the clutch for a way down the track over here. 

 Just trying to get idea's. Would love to go for a DD car, stand out from all the auto's.  Class I would be racing in is a Bracket  ET class.

Remember that top fuel guys are making 8,000-10,000 HP, you will likely be 850-1,000.  Also note how hot those clutches are after a run.  Please understand, not trying to discourage you, I fully understand the "do it different" theme and feel the same way.  I hope you do this set up.

Go get in your standard shift passenger car and try to take off in high gear.  Even if you give it more RPM and slip the clutch it's a dog.  Not apples to apples comparison obviously, but you get the point.  That's what your going to need to address.  What are you thinking for a rear gear?

Direct drive cars run kind of like a super gasser on a throttle stop in that the first 300-400' is comparatively slow, but at half track come on very strong.  Guys in the other lane are used to running wheel-to-wheel with the competition and don't know where you are at.  Can be a killer setup in ET, if you can figure how to make it consistent.  The short turn around time between runs makes that difficult, even with a blower cooling the clutch.

If you can gear it right, and don't try to put too much static on the clutch you can make it work.

Steve K.

   

32

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Direct drive

« on: February 09, 2016, 09:55:49 AM »

Like Dan said, for reverse just bolt a Lenco reverse unit onto the back of the clutch can.  If you don't get one with a neutral position you will need to fabricate a "clutch stick" to hold down the pedal to move the car without a driver. 

I can tell you from experience that with a pedal clutch and a blown alky small block you will not be happy with a direct drive setup if you intend to race it.  You will not make enough power to get it to launch well.  With my 417 Donovan I started to notice gains when I put 25% nitro in the tank.  Ran the 7.50 class using 45-50%, and 7.0 class at 65%. 

As Paul stated, not blazing off the line, but well over 200 on top end.  There's no problem with tires or track, sometimes when the clutch and driveshaft go 1 to 1 there's a little shudder. 

Steve K.

33

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: mark williams dragster

« on: August 12, 2015, 10:04:16 AM »

Tommy,  as I recall I could get to 30° by adjusting the ends.  Eventually I replaced the axle (found a crack) and radius rods.  I have what is supposed to be the original Mark Williams manufacturing tag for my car, and it looks to match up pretty well with the for weld tacks on the right side rear upright where a tag was, but the SEMA number stamped on the tag is four digits and I'm told nobody had four.

Steve K.

34

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: mark williams dragster

« on: August 11, 2015, 09:29:04 AM »

Great photos.  I have the sister to that car, 1969 214".  Couple of things I'll share with you. 

First, it looks like you have the original front steering "L" link on it.  I ran with mine for several years before it broke (170 MPH at half track), fortunately I was headed straight and the chute & brakes did their job.  Think about what it is, a thin chrome-moly flat plate, drilled, then chrome plated.  Likely has hydrogen embrittlement, plus 40 years of stress.

Second, it looks like you still have a lot of caster in it, mine was 45° when I got it and I had a tough time getting off on the return road.  I went to 30° and it was better, and now have 25° and it works well. 

Do you have the SEMA tag?  Is it a three or four digit number?

You will be amazed at how many guys will recognize that it's a MW car.

Thanks,
Steve K.   

35

Gassers / Re: 1962 Falcon gasser

« on: June 23, 2015, 09:45:54 AM »

The small block bell will bolt up, but the crank flange on the hemi extends further from the engine block, so you need to make a spacer to put between the block and bell.

Steve k.

36

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Glenn's dragster thread

« on: June 23, 2015, 09:36:50 AM »

Glenn, we thought you guys did a great job.  It was good seeing that great looking car in the finals and we were pulling for you.

Steve K.

37

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Tune Up Question

« on: October 14, 2014, 09:26:55 AM »

Thanks Spud.  I think I'm leaving at somewhere around 3000 RPM, maybe 3500.  When I try to go with a higher launch RPM (4000+) the 60' slows down so the clutch doesn't like that.

 Leaving at 3K is the metering valve still running fuel thru using the idle slot?  If I increase idle check should I try going right to 25lbs or take it in steps?  Will I see quicker 60' times as the result, is that the yardstick I should use to determine progress?  Will I see a change in the header flames at idle?  My metering valve is set for 82% leak, do I adjust it any?

It's funny, I can remember putting only 5% in the tank and being worried that I might hurt it......now I want at least 70.

Thanks again,
Steve K. 

       

38

Spud Miller's Cave / Tune Up Question

« on: October 13, 2014, 09:23:34 AM »

Spud,

In reviewing this year's run data, I just realized that we ran quicker on 59% nitro than on 70%.  Every place we ran we were pretty good right out of the trailer, but slowed down nearly every pass after that.  Also nipped a few plugs in a way I haven't seen before.  Historically, when we got a little lean it would take off a ground strap.  Usually completely off and I believe in the last 200', as it did not affect E.T. 

With this new tune up, twice I have just taken the very tip off, maybe .015-.025", and it did not affect E.T. or MPH.  A couple of other times it took about .060-.070" off and E.T. and MPH were way down.  Fortunately we haven't hurt any parts.

When you flowed my system (great job by the way, you were spot on with the numbers between the 110 and 990 pumps) you mentioned getting the tune up "wetter in the pipes" at idle by increasing the idle check.  Is it possible that I am too lean at the hit and too rich down track?  Can I be burning the plug tips in the first 60'? (NGK 10 plug)  Should I try to increase the check from 6 lbs to 8 lbs?  Do I increase the port check from 10lbs to 12lbs if I increase the idle?

I have been trying to launch at a lower RPM and have taken a few grams off the clutch to try to get the lockup RPM higher.

For ref: 401" Donovan hemi, 6-71 @ 33% over (25 lbs), 60-70% nitro, 990 pump, not using high speed right now, direct drive 3 disc pedal clutch, 4.10 gear.  We ran 215 @ Bowling Green!  Just need to get more consistent now.

Thanks,
Steve K.

39

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Brake pad compound ?

« on: September 08, 2014, 10:00:43 AM »

I ran the Strange softs for many years, but they suggested I go with the hard compound when I replaced them this year.  I have 20 or so passes on them and from a  functional and "feel" standpoint, I don't notice a difference.  I am curious as to how they wear the rotors.

Steve K.

40

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: New guy...206" FED

« on: July 25, 2014, 09:13:47 AM »

It was so cool to see Claudie get pushed back after his burnouts (no reverser).  I spoke with him several times at the Indy races.  Great person.

Steve K.

41

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: New guy...206" FED

« on: July 24, 2014, 09:37:55 AM »

Carl,

Is your dad Claude?

Steve K.