Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - sknopp

Pages: 1 [2] 3
16
Wanted to sell / Blower Starters for Sale
« on: June 22, 2020, 09:36:39 AM »
I have several of the JH-6 aircraft type blower starters for sale.  The motors are rebuilt and they have new brackets.  36/48 volt, clockwise (standard) rotation.  $1890.00 plus shipping (shipping within U.S. only).  sknopp@mppinnovation.com for additional information.

17
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Overseas new members ride
« on: April 16, 2020, 09:31:57 AM »
Brendan also told me he was glad he was wearing his open face helmet with glass goggles as a full face helmet would have melted the Lexan.  That was the biggest F.E.D. fireball I've ever seen.  I believe the cam drive in the Chevy failed. 

I have noticed that some of the pro drivers appear to be wearing some form of woven thin glove (assume Nomex) under their A-20 glover.  Anyone know what they are and where to get them?

18
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Overseas new members ride
« on: April 07, 2020, 09:17:32 AM »
Hey Bruce, what's your opinion on wood grips on a steering wheel and brake handle?  I've had some claim they insulate better than bare metal in a fire.

19
Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Not seeing any gains !
« on: November 07, 2019, 09:32:02 AM »
Bill, your setup an mine are day and night different (blown hemi with direct drive), but I'll share what I have learned.  I also started with low % nitro and pretty quickly worked up to 40-50%.  ET gains came with each jump in %, but the MPH gains were more significant. 

When I moved from the 7.50 class to 7.0, I increased to 70-75% and added a bunch of clutch to it.  To make more power you have to have more fuel, more fuel wants more clutch, more clutch wants even more fuel, and more fuel wants more spark energy.  It all has to play in the same sandbox.  Somebody mentioned your convertor and for sure, you will want it tighter for fuel.   

My best tuning aid was when I took off my mag IV and put on an old Schiffer-Cirello unit for looks.  It would put raw fuel out the rich cylinders and I was able to balance the fuel system much better.  When I got to higher % I had to go to a mag V to keep the holes lit.  I have a mag + that I'll likely switch to.

I also see a drop in ET if it's tool long between the warm-up and a race and the cylinder head temps drop too much.

My opinion is that it's much easier to run nitro with a blower, but the injected guys might have a different opinion.  Just be sure to pull your plugs and clean out the chambers and lines before trying to start it.  Also, if you have gas ports in your pistons I have heard of a case where they caused an issue with nitro.

Steve K. 

20
Events / Re: Bowling Green 2019, who is going ?
« on: June 07, 2019, 09:23:13 AM »
Will be there with the Old School dragster, Pro 7.0.

Steve Knopp

21
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Show us your Dragster art layout
« on: June 04, 2019, 09:40:56 AM »
Paint is about 10 yrs. old and holding up well for a race car.

22
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Engine Moisture
« on: May 15, 2019, 09:31:23 AM »
Do you ventilate between rounds?  Get an air bed inflator and adapt it to fit your valve cover breather.  Between rounds pull both puke hoses from the covers and put the inflator on to ventilate.  Be sure to put a filter on the inlet side of the inflator. 

23
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Cooling the engine between rounds
« on: June 28, 2018, 09:33:23 AM »
Glenn,

Wayne Sears has a small fan he made using some sort of blower motor.  It slips into the burn down tube, really nifty.  I made a light duty one from a cheap battery powered fan that I stick in between rounds, but I hit it with the leaf blower at the end of the day.  Kinda surprised somebody hasn't addressed making and marketing something.

Steve K.

24
Check with Brendan Murry at Performance Motorsports

http://racecarparts.com/
(408)266-three three two four

Steve K.

25
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: front wheel cradels
« on: June 19, 2017, 09:51:03 AM »
Dean,

I put wooden "V" blocks under each side of the front axle to keep the front tires up off the floor.  And for sure use a chassis saver or some other means to support the frame.
Steve K.

26
Congratulations on the win Glenn.  Good luck in B.G. and we'll see you in Norwalk.
Steve Knopp

27
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: girdle vs 4 bolt caps on iron hemi block
« on: January 21, 2017, 04:42:27 AM »
Dean,

For what you are wanting to do you can modify your existing caps.  Take the no. 1, 2, 3, and 4 caps and mill them flat across the tops (mill of the cast radius that is there).  Then get some flat stock (I used 4140) 1" to 1-1/4" thick and drill them to mount on top of the caps.  Put good studs in the block and use good nuts.  I ran this setup with a filled block on 25% nitro with no issues.  You will need to modify your oil pan. 

I have seen some fabricated girdles pop up on e-bay, but have never had one. 

Steve K. 

28
Congratulations Glenn.........I knew you were gonna do it!

Thanks again for your help Friday with the blower thrash.

Steve K.

29
Wanted to buy / Re: childs and albert starter
« on: May 24, 2016, 09:35:22 AM »
Gregory Whitney in Glendale Arizona.  whitney.gm@gmail.com

30
Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Direct drive
« on: February 16, 2016, 09:48:15 AM »
To mount that reverser you need to make an adapter plate.  There are also reverse units that bolt directly to the bell housing.

Does the facility where you will race mandate a reverser?  If not, you could run without one.  Just burn our behind the line, or have a couple buddies push you back.

Steve K.

Pages: 1 [2] 3