Messages

31

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Finally Got The Car On The Track

« on: April 29, 2017, 09:45:15 AM »

What did you do fix it/ stop it from breaking ?

Not sure if the question was for me but I replaced it with a stronger unit.

32

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Finally Got The Car On The Track

« on: April 28, 2017, 08:18:12 PM »

Good looking and performing car and well established driver means trouble for the other cars.


I broke my input shaft at the 1 to 2 shift, sheared it right at the oil hole.

33

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Trans to Rear Coupler Play

« on: March 21, 2017, 08:43:56 PM »

Just a little note from my experience; I used to run 1/8-3/16 gap but my rear seal kept leaking out fluid and the rear bushing would show signs of burnishing and wear. Increased the gap to 1/4-5/16 and since then no runs, no hits and no errors.

34

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: backing down blower motor

« on: March 11, 2017, 08:55:16 PM »

I run a blown SBC alky motor and don't back it down.

35

Wanted to buy / Re: WTB - ISO Non-Beadlock Wheels

« on: March 09, 2017, 09:17:13 AM »

I have a never run set of 5 on 5    14" wide 15" drag stars. also mounted on then is a set of 14.5 X 33.0 Goodyear tires. 
Call Kevin 701-740-0209

Check your PM's.

36

Wanted to buy / WTB - ISO Non-Beadlock Wheels

« on: March 07, 2017, 07:00:53 PM »

Need a pair of 15 x 15 rear wheels, 5 x 5 pattern with 3 1/2 to 4 inch back space non-beadlock wheels, open to any brand, thanks.

37

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Correct starting & shut off procedure of a blower motor

« on: February 28, 2017, 07:53:38 PM »

Draw3D,
            all that coupemerc is suggesting is to get the oil through the motor before attempting to start it. We use exactly that procedure with Mark Vaught's 7.0 car. Roll the car out of the trailer and get it up on the jacks, pull the plugs and spin the  motor until we see oil pressure. Put the warm up plugs in and fire the motor--with the galleries etc primed there is sufficient oil pressure by the time the engine lights off the squirt bottle and then begins running on the pump. We then switch to the race plugs and fire the same way on the line. Once the engine has been spun to get oil pressure the first time each day there is no need to spin it for more than a couple of seconds to get pressure and it takes that long to light anyway.

Roo

I think he is using a block mounted starter like I am and a block mounted starter turns the motor at a slow rpm and pushing 60 wt oil takes more than a couple of seconds to build up pressure.


I have a pretty good starter and it turns the motor over at between 250 to 300 rpm, that means my oil pump, which is internal in stock location, is turning at 125 to 150 rpm and if you spin for a couple of seconds, it will see 5 revolutions and on my system, it will not buildup to any usable pressure.


I don't start my motor until I see at least 25 psi oil pressure, I would much rather have a dead battery than a dead motor.

38

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Correct starting & shut off procedure of a blower motor

« on: February 27, 2017, 04:29:28 PM »

I disagree with some of the posts,  I don't fire my motor without oil pressure buildup and I don't turn on the mag if the motor isn't spinning, good way to backfire the motor and hurt the blower.

  ? As far as I can see everyone suggested just that--spin it with the mag off to get pressure and then spin it and flip the switch.

Here:

I recommend doing things differently than you listed. Check for oil pressure in the pits with the spark plugs out of it. Leave the mag off and the fuel shut off and crank the motor. That way you will not kill your batteries.

39

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Correct starting & shut off procedure of a blower motor

« on: February 27, 2017, 11:33:25 AM »

I disagree with some of the posts,  I don't fire my motor without oil pressure buildup and I don't turn on the mag if the motor isn't spinning, good way to backfire the motor and hurt the blower.

40

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Why my dragster keeps dying after a burn out, seems to run out of fuel

« on: February 01, 2017, 10:37:56 AM »

It could be a multitude of things but my first thought was; where is your fuel tank vent? Could it be that the vent is getting plugged/restricted from the fuel sloshing in the tank?

A few pictures would help.

41

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Food For Thought

« on: January 04, 2017, 07:27:53 AM »

I'm building a site that does that and it shows when the next one is due:

42

Drag Racing / Re: Burnout

« on: September 10, 2016, 10:57:15 PM »

For me, I found that driving thru the water box a slow speed keeps my burnouts from going crooked.


Also, I hit the throttle to raise the rpm's fast then taper back when I feel the slicks are spinning, and, immediately lift when I feel them start to grab, still remember the days of ballooning a converter.

43

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: shifters

« on: August 20, 2016, 09:29:50 PM »

I tried various brands and didn't like any of them, over priced and none of them fit MY needs, so I made my own, it's not that difficult:

44

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Fuel leaking from nozzle air bleed hole

« on: June 23, 2016, 07:32:45 PM »

If it's just a dribble, you're good to go.


Question, using the bleed holes as a guide, it looks like your nozzles are pointed to the side and not downward, looking in thru the hat, are they visually pointing down?


Also, on my setup, the first row of nozzles from the hat opening point upward at a 45 degree to immediately cool the air charge, works pretty good on my setup.

45

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Fuel leaking from nozzle air bleed hole

« on: June 22, 2016, 05:45:34 PM »

Can you record a video of the nozzles from just before shut down to after the dribbling stops? Curious to see how much they "dribble".