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Messages - rooman

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32
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Interior pan advice please - 3 piece ok?
« on: March 19, 2019, 11:04:00 AM »
If you are running slower than 7.49 (with the transmission in the cockpit) you need to add the 3.2A/15 suit (up from 3.2A/5) but the glove and boot spec for unblown cars is the same (3.3/5). The 3.3/15 gloves and boots  are only required on supercharged/turbocharged cars or closed bodied cars burning methanol (regardless of the transmission in cockpit criteria)

Roo

33
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Interior pan advice please - 3 piece ok?
« on: March 19, 2019, 08:25:05 AM »
does a belly pan help any other than air coming into the compartment ?

It helps keep the flames (and oil and loose parts) out if things get ugly.  ;)

Roo

34
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Interior pan advice please - 3 piece ok?
« on: March 19, 2019, 04:52:51 AM »
Quote
2019 NHRA Rulebook and 2019 HRHS Rulebook General Regulations
7:5 FLOOR
All cars without floors must be equipped with floor pans made of steel or aluminum that must extend the full length and width of the driver compartment to the rear of the driver’s seat. Cars equipped with floors or belly pans made of fiberglass or other breakable material must have metal subfloors. In all cars with OEM fiberglass floors, a crossmember (minimum 2 inches x 2 inches, .083-inch wall thickness square tubing) must be installed between framerails for proper driver’s seat, seat belt, shoulder harness, and crotch strap installation. Belly pans and subfloors enclosing engine or driver compartment must contain suitable drain holes so that liquids and foreign matter cannot collect, thus creating a fire hazard. Minimum .032-inch aluminum or .024-inch steel. In certain instances, an NHRA-accepted panel made of composite material may be substituted for steel or aluminum. Contact the NHRA Technical Services Department for list of accepted composite panels. Use of magnesium prohibited.

That whole section is related to "door" cars. The NHRA can't write an understandable and enforceable rule book to save their lives and there are numerous examples of this sort of wording throughout the book. The recently discussed steering column displacement collar is another that comes to mind. Working in conjunction with Carl Olson and Jim Skelly, I managed to get quite a bit of this sort of thing straightened out quite a few years ago but they are both gone from the NHRA and the clueless have taken over. I will try to contact Glenn Gray today and see it there is any chance of fixing these anomalies.

Roo

35
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Interior pan advice please - 3 piece ok?
« on: March 18, 2019, 03:00:59 PM »
Exactly, but it is what is in the book and that is all that the tech guys have for reference.

36
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Interior pan advice please - 3 piece ok?
« on: March 18, 2019, 02:06:19 PM »
The ruling reads "if driver's body is in contact with belly pan, crossmember and subfloor mandatory.  Also "Driver's legs must be retained inside frame by subflooring or other retaining device that is independent of car's body" (which really is saying the same as the first line).
 The above is from the Nostalgia Dragster section of the 2016 rule book, the latest that I have to hand.

Roo 

37
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Interior pan advice please - 3 piece ok?
« on: March 18, 2019, 10:24:49 AM »
Matt, a couple of questions;

   Does your car have a belly pan (below the frame rails, from mid plate to the rear end) ?

   Do your feet rest on the interior pan or do they rest on the gas pedal (heel rest) or cross members?

   The rules only require a floor pan if your feet rest on the belly pan so if there is something else under them the floor is redundant.

Roo

38
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: new experiences - my 225" fed
« on: March 14, 2019, 02:59:02 PM »
As some of you know Bruce and I have had our differences over the years but I am with him on this one. I don't give a xxxx about the advantage regarding front overhang etc but I do worry about putting cylinders of compressed substance out where any mishap involving contact with the wall, another car etc could knock them off the car and possibly tear the head off the bottle. I know that funny cars run them well forward in some cases but they are behind the front of the frame (and usually a weight bar as well). Mounting them so that they are the first part of the car to hit anything in a frontal impact sounds stupid to me.

Roo

39
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Seeking FED Wisdom
« on: March 13, 2019, 01:21:06 PM »
Loading the motor against the converter should help it make boost early as opposed to revving it up and dumping a clutch. I would go with the powerglide. As already mentioned it is lighter and has much more in the way of parts available both new and used.

Roo

40
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Who is "FLIPPIN AR" ?
« on: March 08, 2019, 01:41:22 PM »
Performance Automotive's phone number is 870 453 2337--- took me 30 seconds on Google to find it

Roo

41
I guess that the determining factor is the NHRA's definition of long.

Roo

42
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Budget rail
« on: January 16, 2019, 09:29:34 AM »
I did not make it to the show this year so I can't help you on that (unless it was Dave Huber's car---https://www.hotrod.com/articles/this-guys-garage-dave-huber/)

Roo

43
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Budget rail
« on: January 16, 2019, 04:33:31 AM »
We use chromoly at work on some buggy's and sand dragsters.ive always thought it's brittle expensive and hard to work and cracks seem to run compared to do?I have way more experience with mild steel we build bombproof rock buggy's with BBC engines and Rockwell's but they don't have the NHRA inspection and sfi specs like the dragsters.resale will not be an issue with what I build it will be a keeper the people here seem to know there stuff and I never have been the kind of person to find someone to answer my questions with the answers I want there is a lot of knowledge to be found here and I appreciate it

As Jeff noted, 4130 is not much more expensive than DOM and if you are finding it brittle, hard to work and prone to cracking you are doing something wrong.

Roo

44
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Budget rail
« on: January 15, 2019, 04:41:52 AM »
Apart from the weight factor the biggest advantage to using 4130 is the ability to step the frame rail diameter down in 1/8" increments. If you use  anything apart from DOM mild steel the wall thickness requirements preclude the ability to slip one tube inside the next size up unless you bore the larger tube and that is as much work as using 4130.

Roo

45
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Budget rail
« on: January 14, 2019, 11:57:24 AM »
I've been out of drag racing for some time!Went to a show yesterday and I think I've got the bug again.My starting point would be a 450hp 327 Chevy and a Dana 60.I do body work and Fab work for a living .Would like to build a old school rail from scratch.Any advice from anyone here would be appreciated

Did Shaw's section at the Cavalcade of Customs suck you in?  :)

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