Topics

16

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / no idle line pressure powerglide

« on: March 30, 2016, 01:11:52 PM »

I have a friend that has a powerglide in his altered. It has no line pressure in any gear or on brake at idle. At 2000 rpm it make 80 psi. This is at test port on servo cover. Cannot put gauge on rev. port in car I've been told. They have put 3 pumps and 3 valve body in with no change. The only thing that was changed orig. was all internals were swapped into an ati super case. The trans has been gone thru by 3 different builders and no problems found. I was wondering if the rear of the case where the governor cover is could be leaking causing this. I have not been over to check out, going tonight. Was just looking for a place to start. I have built a few powerglides and have never had any problems but by all means not a trans expert... Thanks

17

Roo Man's Room / Tubes or no tubes in slicks.

« on: March 24, 2016, 08:30:36 PM »

Changing slicks on a FED to a M/T 33x10.5w on a 10" wheel. It had 32x14 with tubes on a 14" wheel. We have struggled with tire shake with the big slicks. Air pressure was very sensitive. It is a mild steel car and is 185". Weighs about 1650lbs with driver and runs in the 7.6's @ 176mph. It leaves at 6200rpm and is a 565 injected alky. I would really like to hear what everyone else does and how it works for them. I like the idea of less weight but is it worth it? Most of the info I find is for a door cars so it does not relate. Thanks for all the help as always.

18

Front Engine Dragsters / Very cool article. Oh and a very nice piece. Well done!!!

« on: February 16, 2016, 12:55:51 PM »

http://bangshift.com/bangshift1320/deceptive-nostalgia-we-dissect-a-modern-bnostalgia-dragster-and-see-how-advanced-it-really-is/

19

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Question about bushing lifter bores

« on: January 24, 2016, 10:18:11 AM »

So there is a lot controversy on bushing lifter bores in an aluminum block and restricting oil by the size of the hole in the bushing. I am building a Chrysler Wedge in a KB block. I am going to pushrod oil to the top. Is the only reason to restrict oil so if there is a lifter/valve train failure you wont loose oil pressure? Is there a benefit besides that? I am under the impression that more oil to the lifters is your friend on the pressure side to keep the wheel well lubed but also don't want to flood the top of the engine. Can someone please explain this better. I can also install restrictors in the back of the block. I just want to have the block bushed at KB if I go that route. I have been told it is a must do thing...
Thanks as always

20

Spud Miller's Cave / Changing super mag from cw to ccw rotation

« on: January 08, 2016, 12:33:14 PM »

Spud was just wondering if mags can be changed in rotation for cw to ccw. Thanks Greg

21

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / big bore short stroke

« on: January 05, 2016, 07:58:28 PM »

Has anyone played with a big bore short stroke combo in a FED? I am going to build a 4.5" bore 3.9" stroke combo and have had a few people act like im crazy with the short stroke. I have a nice/light crank already. So I am interested in other thoughts. It is a Chrysler wedge in a KB block with a set of Brodix B1MC heads. I am sure there is a lot more to be said but I will start here...Thanks

22

Roo Man's Room / Changing from torsion front end to a-arm front end

« on: October 29, 2015, 12:48:08 PM »

My fed is a 206" wb, motor is out 42". I need to either do some repairs to front end or replace. I like the a-arm look. I will loose 10-12" of wheel base (maybe a little more) and the steering tie rods will be in front of the axle center line. Will the steering be ok in front or should it be moved? I would like to leave it in the front due to fuel tank. Also will the narrower front effect how the fed handles? It all seems simple but was just wondering how others feel about it. I talked to Bruce a while back and he told me how to set up the torsion front end correctly but now I am leaning another direction. It is an addiction that never ends. Thanks Greg.

23

Spud Miller's Cave / top end lube

« on: October 04, 2015, 05:44:11 PM »

So does everyone run top lube? We went testing this weekend and slowed down .45 on et and 11 mph. The problem I think could be in the top lube. We have been running M5(with no top lube, is premixed) for a while and really like it except for cost. So to make a long story short engine is also fresh, only changed compression to a little higher and now have a mag. Other than that all is the same except for the fuel. We had a friend recommend blendzall gold for a top lube so we tried it. Called blendzall and their tech dept. said to add 1 pint to every 3 gallons. So it seems odd to add so much? So 1 1/2 pints into a 5 gallon jug of M1. We only made 3 passes one of which did not get a time slip. so only two time slips. Down low fed is pretty good. by 1/8 mile it starts to slow just a tad. on the big end it lays over. My thought is the top lube just makes the fuel too thick and being n/a our nozzles are pretty small. Or the mag has a problem. I just don't see tune up changing that much due to fresh motor. And tune up did not respond to changes like it always has. So before I ramble for hours Ill stop here and see what kind of input or questions. And yes everything has been double and triple checked. and no we do not have any data system...A lot of people have told me not to run a top lube also?

24

Front Engine Dragsters / Where to put trans brake button with a hand brake car

« on: September 21, 2015, 06:11:09 AM »

So over the weekend I got to sit in my car and make engine noises. Was a good time. But one thing I cannot wrap my head around is where to put the trans brake button due to my car having a hand brake. Is it even possible to leave consistently with a button on the hand brake? Does anyone use a pedal mounted switch? Just wondering how everyone else does it. Thanks...

25

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / wedge heads on a hemi block

« on: August 18, 2015, 12:23:45 PM »

Has anyone ever put wedge heads on a hemi block? I've been told all that is needed is to plug upper head bolt hole with an insert and re-drill upper head bolt hole. Is a solid kb block if that matters. Thanks Greg.

26

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / cam belt drive

« on: August 13, 2015, 07:00:45 AM »

So harmonics have been discussed. Is there any advantage to a belt drive rather than the ease of adjustment?

27

Front Engine Dragsters / Dragster from texas

« on: March 18, 2015, 06:09:44 PM »

Does anyone know anything about this fed? Its from the Dallas area. 206" wb. Appears to be a S&W dragster. The name on the side was Kevin. Just looking for some information. Thanks Greg S.

28

Front Engine Dragsters / DRAGSTER LENGTH

« on: January 08, 2015, 12:39:53 PM »

Quite a few people have been telling me if I want to run a 7.60/NE1 dragster, I should build one 225" long. What is everyone else running? I have been thinking I would like to build a 200". What are the pros and cons? I have room for a 225" where it would be kept but I do see a lot of shorter ones out there. Is 225" really going to make that much difference?

29

Roo Man's Room / To build or buy built

« on: November 24, 2014, 07:54:28 PM »

I know this subject has been asked before but I'm torn on what to do. I really want to build my own fed. I am a large guy 6'3" 230 lbs. wide shoulders. It is difficult to find a chassis that I fit in comfortably. I would like to build a 6.0 cert chassis but there is so many directions to go. Who's kit is good, who's is not? Just get prints and bend all yourself? I do know I would like an open chassis with just a nose cone and simple body around driver. Don't really like torsion bar front ends, would lean more toward a pointed front end. Thinking starting with a kit would be much easier. I know this is not fair to ask if there is a better kit or not but any advice would be appreciated. I know there is so much more to it but this is a good place to start with this question I hope.

30

Front Engine Dragsters / SET UP ON REAR GEARS

« on: October 21, 2014, 12:36:57 PM »

Well we had a great time at CHRR for sure until spool let loose of all left axle splines. So my question is on setting up gears. Does everyone set gears up just like any other set of gears? Or do you shoot for a tighter backlash with a good pattern or just perfect pattern? Thanks for input as usual.