FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Drag Racing Discussions => Front Engine Dragsters => Topic started by: wideopen231 on June 22, 2014, 12:14:17 PM
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Question for guys with good amount of experiance with FED's.What would you say has biggest influance on consistent running fed. Needless to say dead consistent engine and reliable drivetrain,looking for anything else I might want to look at. Hopefully chassis will not be doing anything stupid causing issue if so its all on the builder,crap thats me.
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The only thing I tell the driver is that I dont care what or how you do things but do it the same every time and I will adjust the car to that---Drivers are the biggest variable out there
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Chris A little looser of a converter and a little bigger of a tire will help some . A little extra weight on the front helps also. Or you could hire Scotty Richardson or Peter Biondo to drive ! Those two guy's could win with a dump truck !Like Bruce said just try to keep your routine the same every time and wen something is off like your lights it is easier to bring the car to you than changing your driving .
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Don't know about Peter But Scotty has already told me he has never wanted to drive a FED. Ain't nobody putting htis thing in winners circle except CHRIS. Going with fairly loose converter and running 14" wide tire,not big but more than most fed's run and 6600 stall(target for new converter anyway).
I did not spend past 3 years scrimping my butt off to put someone else in seat. I built chassis,build motors,building trans piece by piece now and will drive win ,loose or draw its all on me and I like it like that. Now if someone else wanted to pay I'm ok with that.LMAO
Been while since drove anything without blower and clutch,but I might remember how to do it.Last glide I drove was 1988 in 66 Nova 454 injected with tube chassis me a dad built from Alston kit. I could put 5 or 6 runs down and be within .01 and not auto shift,no sle.Just my foot controlling rpm and hand shifting when motr felt and sounded right.I think thats what they called driving.Heck 6 runs 1 night and had 5 dead on the same to .001. Not saying past 26 years of headsup balls to the wall racing hasn't made the idea of lifting hard to handle. If drivers problem I'll kick his,well you know.
One thing I have noticed larger portion of guy with FED's and nostalgia stuff all seem to do more work themselves,maybe why not a cookie cutter as most bracket and class cars are.
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I would think the easiest thing to watch to keep consistency is the weather.
A/F mixture makes a big difference in how fast you run. Same set up no matter what it is (unless computers are involved) will run faster at 1200 feet air density than at 2800 air density, see that much variation at our local track all the time.
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Agree Glenn.Thats one great thing about injection.Run it a little bit rich(maybe .010 or so) and it will have very little change with weather. Now with a craperator it may or may not change have nopt had one since 1985 and do not see it happening anytime in future either.
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Car balance, weight where it needs to be, engine out far enough so that you don't have to put more than 20 lbs on the nose (so that yo have something you can take off on those super sticky tracks), right length wheelie bar (too short and it shocks the chassis). After that, it's all driver.
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Man feeling better about this deal. Engines out at 50" .Battery in nose,fuel tank behind front axle centerline and hopefully nothing on nose needed. Wheelie bars is right at 5 1/2 '. Chassis is slip joint with limiters that can make rigid in cpl minutes with two wrench's. should have lots of chassis tuning options. Now the light bulb different issue,been working on him all my life.