FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Technical => Roo Man's Room => Topic started by: wideopen231 on June 17, 2015, 05:03:14 PM
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Getting ready to mount battery in car. Can mountbehind front axle centerline,move fuel tank back cpl inch's for little extra clearance.You know that electrical and aluminum tank full off alcohol don't mix thing. I can mount in front of axle centerline,leave tank where is with lots of room between. Lot more work including making new nose piece.
Question would be more effective out front or no real differance?If it would be more effective and save maybe having to add more later the work is not issue.
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weighed front end with battery in front of axle CL. battery is 10 heavier thaqn actual race battery. Using halfa-s-s bathroom scales (2)I have 356 lbs. No chute or wheelie bar on rear.Did have fat butt driver(225#) in seat plus full body,not the chute body,dang I left bunch off rear.
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If you have sparks coming off your battery you have more problems than moving the fuel tank further away will solve. Similarly, if you have a problem with fuel getting to the battery there are other issues to address.
The front weight sounds reasonable to me and I would not worry too much about changing it until you run the car--every combination varies (power/torque/front-rear balance etc) and until you actually make a lap you are just guessing unless you have a lot of prior experience with a similar package. As Bruce repeatedly states you can make anything go down the track and you have to run the car before you can determine exactly how close your first guess was as to what it needs.
Roo
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Not really worried about battery and fuel deal under normal siuation.More of human stupidity. Like someone hooking or unhooking charger while tank is being filled. Not that allow many people to help me out at track. Plus getting battery cable past tank with almost zeero clearance between tank and chassis.
have battery mounted in nose now. Figure heavy rubber hose around cable should where passing tank should help there. Probably overthinking and trying to get a head of any thing stupid happening..Once watched a guys generator ignite fumes from another guys gas jug while filling his car. They where on oppisite sides of pit road.
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Put some ports in the frame rail and run the battery cable through it. I presume that you only run one large cable from the battery to the starter--it also saves on ty-wraps. :)
Roo
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Entry easy chassis is open in front, straight shot. Exit will have to be tru chassis and going to make gromet for it as not to wear thru shield. Have to then connect to switch for mandatory disconnect.
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I had a dragster in the shop recently for some repair and upgrade work including moving the battery to the front of the car and I added the slots and doublers so that he could mount the switch adjacent to the battery and run the shut off cable through the upper rail where it exited on the lower side of the shoulder hoop just before the bend. Put a tab just behind the slot to clamp the cable and the end of the cable ended up just below and to the right of the chute pack.
Roo
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I once ran the battery in front of the engine and the switch right next to it mounted on a plate, then used a shifter solinoid to knock the switch off. Ran some 16ga wire to button switch on the back. Turned the main on and off by hand normally, but in emergency push the button and kills everything.. The next car I did this on was a door car but also made a rollover switch so that during a hard crash while the driver was occupied with more important issues, the car would shut down the engine and most importantly, the fuel pumps!!!!
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I had a dragster in the shop recently for some repair and upgrade work including moving the battery to the front of the car and I added the slots and doublers so that he could mount the switch adjacent to the battery and run the shut off cable through the upper rail where it exited on the lower side of the shoulder hoop just before the bend. Put a tab just behind the slot to clamp the cable and the end of the cable ended up just below and to the right of the chute pack.
Roo
hi roo, what's your view on drilling into the chassis to rivet panels or tap for p-clips to hold fuel lines. Would a drilled hole be a stress riser ?? Also the slot idea is there any published spec on how long a slot can be an thickness of the material for the doubler ??
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Couple holes for rivets are fine, just not every inch. SFI spec states that when a hole in the frame exceeds 25% of the circ. then a .049 doubler must be used and welded around the perimeter.
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Thanks Bruce,
I was at the street rod nats in Louisville yesterday and am just now catching up on what happened while I was gone.
Roo
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Thanks guys