FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Technical => Roo Man's Room => Topic started by: Mrs Esterhouse on December 04, 2015, 04:20:26 PM
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What do you recommend to clean tubing before welding. thank you.
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I usually scotchbrite all of my tubing after cleaning off any protective oil with brake clean/ acetone etc.
Roo
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I know we're talking steel tubing here, but I think its worth mentioning to never use brake clean on aluminum you plan to weld.
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I dont even use it on steel parts
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I used to use it all the time till I read that story about a guy who got real sick from using it !Bad stuff !
While we are on the subject I also read once that you should not use copper coated wire for tig welding chrome moly . Any truth to it or is it just another BS story .
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The only problem brake clean is the chlorinated stuff and that has been legislated out of existence.
Roo
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Chrome Moly is an alloy and copper is one of them.
As far as brake clean,, clor or non-clor I learned not to use it, who knows what chems the next supplier will use to manufacture it.
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I am a welder and use brake cleaner frequently in my shop. The danger is using brake cleaner with chlorine in it. The ultaviolet radiation from a welding arc will cause phosgene gas. Phosgene gas was used in trench warfare in WW1. Just be sure to use non-chlorinated brake cleaner (usually in a green can) and marked in an obvious place on the label and avoid the chlorinated brake clean (usually in a red can) and you will be fine. If you accidentally use the chlorinated stuff you will know immediately because of the smell that most describe as the smell of new mowed hay. If that happens quit welding and air out the shop and you will be fine.
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Thank you for the reply's, I used a new scotch brite disc to get it shiny and then wiped it down with non chlorinated brake clean. My first 3 or 4 welds are real good but then my arc starts to wonder, and my tungsten is contaminated. Not sure what I am missing.
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Be sure you have enough postflow because if you don't your tungsten will oxidize. You can see if it has if it turns black. 10 seconds should be enough.
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Thanks again for all the reply's, I am not sure but I did some more practice with scrap on the bench and I think maybe I was holding the arc a little to close and I see my argon tank is getting pretty low. I am confident in all the welds on the car I was just having to regrind tungsten more than I think is right. Anyway new bottle next week, regroup, work on the engine this weekend and hit it again.
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I am a welder and use brake cleaner frequently in my shop. The danger is using brake cleaner with chlorine in it. The ultaviolet radiation from a welding arc will cause phosgene gas. Phosgene gas was used in trench warfare in WW1. Just be sure to use non-chlorinated brake cleaner (usually in a green can) and marked in an obvious place on the label and avoid the chlorinated brake clean (usually in a red can) and you will be fine. If you accidentally use the chlorinated stuff you will know immediately because of the smell that most describe as the smell of new mowed hay. If that happens quit welding and air out the shop and you will be fine.
If that smelt like fresh cut Hay I'd be spraying it all over 8) that's one of the finest aromas in the world!
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Thanks again for all the reply's, I am not sure but I did some more practice with scrap on the bench and I think maybe I was holding the arc a little to close and I see my argon tank is getting pretty low. I am confident in all the welds on the car I was just having to regrind tungsten more than I think is right. Anyway new bottle next week, regroup, work on the engine this weekend and hit it again.
Lean against anything you can while welding, lean against the table, the chassis, rest your elbows and wrists against whatever to stabilize your movements while laying bead.
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I agree, prop both your torch hand and filler hand and body in any way you can for stability if necessary. But I'd say prop and lean Lightly, because when you have to move if you have to release and reposition a lot of support weight it's gonna affect the accuracy of your manipulation and the appearance and quality of the weld. And I'd cheat every chance I'd get to reposition the joint to give me the best chance of the best weld joint. Sometimes you can't, but many times you can.
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I buy lacquer thinner in 5 gal can from Napa--save all the wifes dish liquid bottles--fill with thinner --keep all around the shop--you have the perfect cleaner for dozens of jobs handy at all times--could not live without this shop helper.
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Thanks again for all the ideas, It's pretty cool to be a part of this group. I went to a larger gas lens and a lot more tungsten stick out and everything is going way better. Chassis is almost done, engine almost ready for dyno. Need to make a call on my torque converter yet but should be ready for end of April.
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I use the Green Brakleen CRC 75088 I'm pretty sure it's NON chlorinated???? I hope so! I have used it for quite a long time it seems to evaporate right away. It seems good to degrease before painting. Is this stuff OK???