Messages

16

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: EGT tuning

« on: February 08, 2021, 12:24:37 PM »

Wouldn't EGT at least be useful for diagnosing fuel distribution problems?

EGT is useful as a reference no matter what as far as I'm concerned. It'll help you figure out your combo, help with consistency and give you an idea to potential problems.

17

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: EGT tuning

« on: January 30, 2021, 09:26:34 AM »

I am, with a tunnel ram and hat.  I look for around 400 at idle, 700 on the 2 step and 1200 at the top end.   I run a probe in each bank just for a cross reference.

18

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Nostalgia BBC Recipe

« on: December 27, 2020, 06:22:54 AM »

Anybody know what it ran in that dragster?

19

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Changing motor plate

« on: December 27, 2020, 06:21:54 AM »

We're out of luck on my end at the moment then, I have the 302 pattern

20

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Changing motor plate

« on: December 26, 2020, 03:11:00 PM »

I had a Chevy motor in this and a Chevy powerglide. I don't mind changing the Bell to fit the Ford I was just curious is there was a drill guide to go from Chevy to Ford to not have to build a new motor plate just pop in the new bolt pattern but keep the crank shaft centerline

Gotcha.  Advance adapters may have an inexpensive adapter you could use that would do just what you want.  I think I've got a pattern for a 351 I could overlay and cut a piece of aluminum with both patterns.  But I'm not sure which 351 I have or if it's the same as what you have.  You'll have to school me on Ford stuff

21

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Changing motor plate

« on: December 26, 2020, 06:30:26 AM »

I would almost bet advance adapters makes a BBF to chevy adapter that you could buy and bolt through your Ford holes and use the chevy side as a drill guide.  If you're looking to use a chevy trans behind your Ford an ultrabell is the best way in my opinion.

22

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: SPE steering box rebuild

« on: October 31, 2020, 06:50:01 AM »

If you cant find parts to fix them the Strange unit should bolt in its place. 

Not much in there for parts, if the worm is worn you could probably build it up and machine it back but thats not a simple project unless you're a machinist.  The pin that rides in the groove could be repaired or replaced the same way. I'm not sure if the box is bushed at the pivot points or not but that would be the only other wear point.

23

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Flip-up cowl

« on: June 06, 2020, 06:40:00 AM »

Zipped tied fire extingusher, brake lines all over the place, no cross bar over the legs, no helmet bars, exposed bolt ends holding the rear end in place, front roll bar hoop must be continues(1pc) and not 2 pcs welded to the cut off cage uprights   How am I doing so far???

Probably gonna get banned for this but here goes...

Pretty much as expected, like the biggest douche bag in drag racing.  The car is clearly a work in progress with the work being done by the owner(s).  They'll do the best they can and I'm sure all that stuff will be fixed to tech and chassis cert specs before it makes a pass.  They'll probably also put cylinder heads on it before they try to run it.

 You seem to lack the understanding that not everybody does everything like you, especially  home builders.  Sometimes they make things just so they can work on the car.  Those parts may not be on the finished product and they're learning every step of the way.  I'm willing to bet that they know about all the items you mentioned and are just trying to work out the process of getting it done.  Not an easy thing if you've never done it or had somebody show you how to do it.  These poor guys were just trying to show other people an idea they had in case somebody else might think it was interesting.

Seems to me a couple years ago you made a post about leaving this site.  No one begged you to stay and a couple people said don't let the door hit you in the ass on the way out.  But I'm sure you were always lurking, frothing at the mouth about the horrors you were seeing and needed to comment on but held your tongue until one day you couldn't take it anymore and you came back.  I'm sure the collective membership moaned when they saw you were back.  Why don't you do everybody a favor and go away again.

24

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Flip-up cowl

« on: June 05, 2020, 03:24:25 PM »

Start at the beginning and tell him everything that's wrong with his clearly unfinished project/work in progress

25

Wanted to sell / Re: Chassis jig

« on: April 04, 2020, 06:55:37 AM »

Worked up a list of stuff that's included with this jig:

 MW alignment bar with rings for BBC, SBC, early and late Chrysler.

SBC and BBC and 426 mock up blocks (BBC and 426 are aluminum)

powerglide case cut to fit over alignment bar

Autocad DXF files for various brackets and tabs required to build chassis...rear end housing mounts, anti rotation mounts, chute mounts and levers, motor plates, steering box mounts etc etc

26

Wanted to sell / Re: Chassis jig

« on: March 02, 2020, 05:14:33 PM »

david,
are you retiring from the business?
john
the other buick dragster

Yes, had an offer to good to refuse. So I didn't.

27

Wanted to sell / Re: Chassis jig

« on: March 01, 2020, 03:42:19 PM »

What's the best time to call tomorrow?
I'm in central Maine and will call with a few questions.

After 2:30 is best.  Or until 9 tonight

28

Wanted to sell / Re: Chassis jig

« on: March 01, 2020, 02:55:04 PM »

David what town are you located in?
John

Merrimack NH

29

Wanted to sell / Chassis jig

« on: March 01, 2020, 06:32:49 AM »

Chassis table with jigs and fixturing to build  FED's, altereds and RED's.  Modular in design the main table is 13' long by 36" wide and weighs over 1000 pounds.  It features 40 numbered holes down the outer rails for the included tooling.  With the included extensions I've built cars to 270".  This table could easily be used to build door cars if you wanted to make some tooling for it.  Machined flat top surface. Also comes with setup notes and whatever little tools and gizmos I've made for it over the years.  Formerly the chassis Dragster Supply/David Beard race cars chassis table.  Pics to come.  $5500.00. This table could be set up and building cars whithin a couple hours of getting it home.  Call or text David @603-234-9496

30

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build

« on: December 29, 2019, 06:49:32 AM »

OK....I concede (as I hang my head in shame), 4130 is the best way to go for numerous reasons and I should quit trying to take shortcuts or pinching pennies. I do wonder about my bender and dies being up to doing a nice job on .058" 4130. I have to pull out my bender and check, but I believe the 1.5" die I have is for 5.5" centerline radius bends. I don't know if it is too tight (no inside mandrel) to bend without kinks or ripples. I guess the only way I'll know is to get some tube and try it out.

The bender I have is a JD2, and if I recall from conversation with dreracecar on another website (the HAMB) that it isn't exactly the preferred bender to use anyway. I guess I'll just have to get some 4130 of a couple sizes and do some test bends to answer that uncertainty for myself. I do recall from previous use that my 1 3/4", 6.5" centerline radius die created an unacceptable, rippled inside radius on 16 Ga. HREW tube. I don't recall ever bending anything under .083" with the 1.5" die, but I fear the tighter radius on it will have the same problem when bending 4130. 

I know I keep saying it, but I do appreciate the suggestions and advice from everyone.

Lynn

Your JD2 will be just fine with the right die set.