FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Technical => Roo Man's Room => Topic started by: 225digger on April 02, 2013, 12:00:28 PM
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anyone have some pics on how they are mounting a solid front axle ? originally i was going to go with a tripod setup , but decided to go with a drop axle that is pretty short , around 26" width i see a good bit of cars with a short front axle and no other bars or rods holding the axle at the ends , im curious if anyone has some pics on how they mounted the front axle into the lower frame rails . im also going to extend the frame alittle forward of the front axle so i can mount a nose to the car
thanks
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Glad to see I'm not the only one that has a narrow solid front axle ;) Actually it looks pretty simple!
Randy
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i like the old style torsion bar setups , but i want new stuff and i guess i compromised with the drop axle , im getting it from SW race cars ..... i also have there blue prints and it just bolts to the front of the frame rails and thats it , but id like to maybe incorporate it into the lower rails , i have an idea of how i can do it just like to see what other guys are doing
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I will try to post some photos later today of how I have been doing it, although I am looking at a bracket package for the future rather than the saddle deal that I use now.
Roo
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i had an ed quay RED a few yrs ago , it had a striaght front axle that was mounted into some plates on the upper rail , and then it had 1/2 tubing going from the lower rail to the bottom of the axle , it was a real simple setup . so im thinking of some how mounting the axle in some plates but onto the lower rail , i guess its one of those things i wont know what im doing until its all in the jig and im laying pipe .
also , roo , curious im building to 2.2c specs , on the rear up rights , im going to go the 3/16th plate route , in the book it says it must wrap a 1/4 around the upper and lower frame , does this mean i need to wrap that 3/16th around the rails ? i see alot of other designs where the plates just end at the upper and lower tubes and do not wrap around . that part confuses the heck out of me .
im getting real close to starting to bend this thing up . i should have my floater next week from strange , already have everything else , i get some surgery in 2 weeks and need to be on light duty so im hoping the week that im off i can build the majority of this frame .
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Re the rear end upright plates the rule is that the weld has to wrap around the end of the plate not the plate around the frame. At least one NHRA tech guy did (does?) not understand the rule and told a newby builder that the plate had to wrap around.
The intent of the rule is to make the weld contiguous and avoid creating a stress riser at the edge of the plate. It is also a good idea to at least stitch weld the other side of the plate in the vicinity of the rear end mounting holes.
Roo
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i think i got it now , i guess i was over thinking the rule alittle bit for some reason ............after doing some studying on pics today i belive im going to go with the rectangular tubing with bungs , looks alot nicer and just better over all
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225digger – I see you mention red, so I don’t mind adding info. Here’s 3 pictures of 999 from 2011. I too prefer looks of the torsion axle setup. First picture shows my dropped chrome axle, 46 inches king pin to king pin. I was told it’s old funny car axle, uses the 26 inch torsion setup with 5 inch arms. It’s now my pretend torsion setup with 1.5 inch CM tube and 3/8 plate cut for 5 inch arms. CM tube is tig welded to lower front frame rails, the 5 inch arms slide on CM tube.
Make sure you have 3 inch minimum ground clearance (check tech rules) with your wheels/tires in place and then tig weld 5 inch arms solid to 1.5 inch CM tube. Front axle bolts on like normal torsion setup, you can adjust caster, but for most part axle is solid mounted. Pictures easy to follow. I’m thinking you can use with fed type steering too....
Extra tubing on front is for fuel tank I was designing to look like a grill shell. Changed my mind as I decided shorter fuel line better. Shotgun shell decoration above steering is to hide it as I didn’t like looks of rack & pinion, too modern for me. Plus can add lead weight to shell if I need to. Second picture is after media blasting, third picture is after powdercoating. Any questions, please ask. DF
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What's the wheelbase on that chassis? Have you thought about using a Track T nose on it?
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slingshot383 – has 222 inch wb. I’d not thought about a track t front, but would consider it. I’d have to see what it would take to make one out of aluminum, never tried that before… it would have to appeal to me too, or else no go. I’m always open to suggestions, thanks. DF