Messages

31

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: 434 sbc build

« on: January 19, 2021, 07:11:45 AM »

tcoupekyle - this is just my general acquired info, all the camshaft companies have a supercharger line and you will notice similar specs.  They all promote wider lobe separation angle (LSA) over a NA engine and for those of us that abuse our supercharged engines with higher rpms, you may want more exhaust lift and duration over the intake.
 
The wider LSA is to minimize overlap measured in degrees.  When the intake and exhaust valves are open together (aka the overlap), exhaust back pressure could reduce intake pressure from the supercharger.  You will see LSA of 112+ it’s generally recommended not go over 30 degrees of overlap.

The reason supercharger cams typically have more exhaust lift and duration is to more clear the cylinders of exhaust gas to make room for the incoming charge.  It’s just makes it more difficult for the supercharger to work with exhaust taking up space in the cylinder.  I think (generally) up to 8-10 percent higher exhaust lift and duration over the intake is pretty common now.

If you are going to abuse this 434, you are going to abuse this engine, right : ) as a starting point look for a solid roller cam with LSA over 112 and has more exhaust lift and duration then intake.  Alan

p.s.  I like Crower cams, Schneider cams, Isky cams and 43 years ago my first racing cam was Lunati.

32

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Overseas new members ride

« on: January 10, 2021, 12:04:09 PM »

Finnish Fireball - money well spent.  I like that Merlin block design, with thicker cylinder walls and thicker deck.  Adds much stability over the stock Chevy.  The Total Seal rings also excellent choice.  Alan

33

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: 2021

« on: January 01, 2021, 02:41:34 PM »

Happy New Year.  It’s beautiful day here in Colorado, sunny, clear and warm.  I just went for 55 minute walk around the neighborhood, things are looking good.  Onwards and upwards for 2021.  Alan

34

Door Cars / Re: Fuel tank?

« on: October 31, 2020, 07:30:43 PM »

I will check for the Schraeder valve, that would be an easy solution, just what I was looking for, thank you for information.

35

Door Cars / Re: Fuel tank?

« on: October 31, 2020, 03:24:57 PM »

Yes on EFI with electric pump.  That was my first thought as well to not try starting.  I haven’t looked at the fuel line layout in engine compartment but will check that out next time over there, the top of the engine was hidden by a square plastic cover.

36

Door Cars / Fuel tank?

« on: October 31, 2020, 11:32:24 AM »

My friend has a 2002 vw beetle that has been sitting since 2013, it was his daughter’s car.  He asked me to help him get it running, he has only basic tools and although very smart, not with cars.  The battery showed .5 volts, it needed a battery which we replaced.  We turn the ignition on to see how much gas is in it, and it shows full tank.

He knows it needs a State emission test to register for new plates, and old gasoline might make the engine fail the emission test.  I try to siphon the gas out of the tank.  The rubber hose goes down about 12 inches and stops.  I did manage to siphon out about ½ cup before it stopped flowing.  The gasoline is not clear, it has a golden-brown color.
 
I try again and again with different type hoses to get further than 12 inches into that tank.  After looking up a picture of the gas tank, now we see the filler tube goes down 12 inches, then takes an immediate 90 degree turn, then goes 12 more inches before it enters the top of the tank.  This 90 degree turn is what stopping my siphon hose.  I think vw engineers added this 90 degree turn to prevent any siphoning.

Anyone have an easy idea how to drain gas out of this vw, the tank holds 14 gallons.  If it were the race car, it’d be easy…  Alan

37

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: First time back to the track in 7 years

« on: October 01, 2020, 07:11:19 AM »

John – enjoyed seeing your videos.  Late shift after a 7 year sabbatical, that’s allowed, it’s in the permanent unwritten rules, Drag Racing 101.  Alan 

38

Altereds / Re: Prism decal graphics wanted

« on: August 28, 2020, 05:07:14 PM »

Try the 3M Eraser Wheel.  I've used it on a modern car and it works well, no paint damage.  Keep your speed down and keep moving over the glue.  Here's a link:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-07498-STRIPE-OFF-WHEEL-ERASER-WHEEL-WITH-HARDWARE-3M-7498/231705997215?epid=1066556367&hash=item35f2c0ef9f:g:yHsAAOSw0HVWExP6

39

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: E85

« on: August 10, 2020, 07:32:37 AM »

FTF – thanks for adding clarification, your explanation easy to follow and helpful.  Alan

40

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: E85

« on: August 09, 2020, 09:20:50 PM »

E85 popular here in Colorado.  Out on the eastern plains of Colorado, they grow corn specifically for ethanol blended fuel.  From memory, there are 3 classes of ethanol fuel, Class 1 is 85% ethanol and 15% gas, octane is around 104-105.  Class 2 and 3 are less percent of ethanol and higher percent gas, like 70-75% ethanol to 25-30% gas.  Octane goes down with more gas percent.

I’ve run mechanical fuel injection, both methanol and a nitro mix, not E85.  If your combustion chamber burns all the fuel and air mixture, you just reached stoichiometric or stoich, a good thing.  Here are some general stoich values for different fuels:

Pump gas.............14.7:1
C16 race gas.........14.8:1
E85........................9.8:1
Methanol.................6.4:1

Answer to your question, yes you can run E85, you will need to make tuning changes.  To achieve the E85 9.8:1 stoich from your current Methanol 6.4:1 stoich, you will need to increase your main pill (area) to reduce fuel flow to your combustion chamber.  How much - just my guess would be a reduction of 20-25 percent as a starting point, and then keep increasing main pill area size slowly to continuing towards leaner.  You may need to change your spark plugs and timing as well.

Not too sure how the engine temperature will fare compared to running straight methanol.  Reducing the fuel ~20-25% running through your engine will no doubt increase temperature.

41

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: staying cool in summer heat

« on: July 19, 2020, 11:44:28 AM »

Umbrella for dragster.

42

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Zoomie pipes wanted

« on: May 16, 2020, 05:16:23 PM »

Seven years ago, Ted's Fabrication (aka 225digger) did excellent for my special order.  Stainless Steel and bends/length were precision done.  And he was most competitive price plus shipping I was quoted compared to 3 other businesses.  Thanks again Ted.  Alan 

43

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: BBC Main Stud Life?

« on: May 16, 2020, 05:07:56 PM »

Reference information courtesy from ARP-bolts.com website, select their "Tech" and then "Installation" page:

The Stretch Factor
It is important to note that in order for a fastener to function properly it must be "stretched" a specific amount. The material's ability to "rebound" like a spring is what provides the clamping force. If you were to simply "finger-tighten" a bolt there would be no preload. However, when you apply torque or rotate a fastener a specific amount and stretch it, you will be applying clamping force. The amount of force or preload you can achieve from any bolt or stud depends on the material being used and its ductility, the heat treat, and the diameter of the fastener. Of course, every fastener has a "yield" point! The yield point or yield strength of a fastener is the point at which the fastener has been overtightened and stretched too much, and will not return to its original manufactured length. As a rule of thumb, if you measure a fastener and it is .0005˝ (or more) longer than its original length it has been compromised and must be replaced.

https://arp-bolts.com/p/technical.php


Dunk the Funk - perhaps the answer to your question is more related to the main stud's "yield" point.  I have used ARP bolts/fasteners and they have excellent products and service.  Alan

44

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Since I sold my FED Look

« on: March 14, 2020, 09:19:24 AM »

wideopen231 - of course, I’m guessing all over there’s noises coming from racers, some good some bad : )  Alan

45

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Overseas new members ride

« on: March 14, 2020, 09:17:02 AM »

Finnish Fireball - pretty nice, I’m guessing it’s the 8-71 Hampton, one of those zero maintenance/no striping required units.  Alan