16
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: What did you do on your Front Engine Dragster TODAY?
« on: May 15, 2023, 09:39:56 AM »
Lynn - pretty exciting, I think you should take it for a spin around the block 
FEDs Forever!
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17
Lost and hoping to find / FED forum
« on: May 02, 2023, 07:05:00 AM »
I couldn't log on for the past few days and was thinking the FED site was lost. Thank you (i.e. Glenn) for fixing. Lots of excellent info here. Alan
18
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Brake Fluid Question
« on: February 24, 2023, 12:26:03 PM »
From Strange dated August 26, 2021 - Master Cylinder page 1 of 3
Due to temperatures experienced during drag racing, DOT 4, DOT 5.1 or a high performance glycol based brake fluid is recommended. Brake systems are prone to moisture from humidity and regular use, therefore, moisture must be absorbed by the brake fluid instead of collected so the fluid does not easily boil.
DOT 5 (silicone based) is not recommended. It does not mix with other fluids. It is slightly compressible giving soft pedal/handle. It also does not absorb water. When moisture enters the system, it settles at the lowest point in which most cases is the caliper. At braking temperatures moisture can boil causing a loss or lack of pedal/handle.
Always perform a complete flush to the brake system when changing to a different brake fluid to avoid contamination. Do not use brake fluid from open bottles or bottles stored for long periods as moisture may have been absorbed. The dry boiling point is the temperature at which brake fluid will boil with no water (moisture) present in the system. The wet boiling point is the temperature at which brake fluid will boil when 3% is water by volume of the system.
In race applications it's assumed brake fluid is changed often therefore moisture is not present and the dry boiling point can be a better reference when deciding on which fluid to use.
DOT 3 Inexpensive, readily available, mixes with DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 Lowest boiling point, absorbs water, eats paint
DOT 4 Higher boiling point than DOT 3, absorbs water less readily than DOT 3 Absorbs water, eats paint
DOT 5 Does not eat paint, high boiling point Does not mix with water, difficult to bleed
DOT 5.1 High boiling point, mixes with DOT 3 & 4 Absorbs water, eats paint
Due to temperatures experienced during drag racing, DOT 4, DOT 5.1 or a high performance glycol based brake fluid is recommended. Brake systems are prone to moisture from humidity and regular use, therefore, moisture must be absorbed by the brake fluid instead of collected so the fluid does not easily boil.
DOT 5 (silicone based) is not recommended. It does not mix with other fluids. It is slightly compressible giving soft pedal/handle. It also does not absorb water. When moisture enters the system, it settles at the lowest point in which most cases is the caliper. At braking temperatures moisture can boil causing a loss or lack of pedal/handle.
Always perform a complete flush to the brake system when changing to a different brake fluid to avoid contamination. Do not use brake fluid from open bottles or bottles stored for long periods as moisture may have been absorbed. The dry boiling point is the temperature at which brake fluid will boil with no water (moisture) present in the system. The wet boiling point is the temperature at which brake fluid will boil when 3% is water by volume of the system.
In race applications it's assumed brake fluid is changed often therefore moisture is not present and the dry boiling point can be a better reference when deciding on which fluid to use.
DOT 3 Inexpensive, readily available, mixes with DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 Lowest boiling point, absorbs water, eats paint
DOT 4 Higher boiling point than DOT 3, absorbs water less readily than DOT 3 Absorbs water, eats paint
DOT 5 Does not eat paint, high boiling point Does not mix with water, difficult to bleed
DOT 5.1 High boiling point, mixes with DOT 3 & 4 Absorbs water, eats paint
19
Spud Miller's Cave / Re: E85???
« on: April 20, 2022, 08:24:25 AM »
lake_harley - I believe your reference to the 30-35 percent increase regards actual E85 fuel flowing through the carburetor from idle to WOT versus 90 octane gasoline. You are right it does not refer to a larger "jet diameter." The solution is not as easy as drilling out the two jets on your existing quadrajet carb to increase the "area" for more flow.
If you wanted to do this with precision, flowing the individual jets would be one method; for a mechanical fuel injection system that operates at higher pressure/flow than a carb jet, FIE has the setup to professionally flow individual jets. It may not matter as much with a carb jet. Drilling out existing jets to increase flow has been done by many others over the years in many different type carbs.
I've not sure how a quadrajet carburetor would run on E85. As a starting point for your particular engine, I think the 30-35 percent increase means both in the primary and secondary flow. Drilling out the 2 primary jets (i.e. increasing area) may only be a starting point. As you know, there are businesses that sell new E85 4-barrel carburetors, and they sell for $700-$1000 each. The new E85 carburetors do not resemble a quadrajet style carb, there must be a reason for this decision.
You mentioned methanol versus E85 and slightly lean burning holes in pistons. I do not have much experience with the internal workings of a quadrajet carburetor and only somewhat familiar with how they operate. For your idea of using a quadrajet carburetor for E85; if you were to only modify the primary side to increase fuel flow by 30-35 percent and not modify the secondary, I could guess you may experience a lean condition at WOT that might do damage.
My experience with methanol with a mechanical fuel injection system has been it tends to run richer as you go to WOT, and therefor in some cases a need for a high speed leanout. Setting my tuneup with methanol, I have it set up very very lean to start so it can build engine heat quicker on startup. Once you rpm up, go do your burnout and make your way to WOT, the system goes richer with mechanical fuel injection. I'm guessing with E85 it would be similar with mechanical fuel injection, you will have to let us know how it works with a carburetor. Alan
If you wanted to do this with precision, flowing the individual jets would be one method; for a mechanical fuel injection system that operates at higher pressure/flow than a carb jet, FIE has the setup to professionally flow individual jets. It may not matter as much with a carb jet. Drilling out existing jets to increase flow has been done by many others over the years in many different type carbs.
I've not sure how a quadrajet carburetor would run on E85. As a starting point for your particular engine, I think the 30-35 percent increase means both in the primary and secondary flow. Drilling out the 2 primary jets (i.e. increasing area) may only be a starting point. As you know, there are businesses that sell new E85 4-barrel carburetors, and they sell for $700-$1000 each. The new E85 carburetors do not resemble a quadrajet style carb, there must be a reason for this decision.
You mentioned methanol versus E85 and slightly lean burning holes in pistons. I do not have much experience with the internal workings of a quadrajet carburetor and only somewhat familiar with how they operate. For your idea of using a quadrajet carburetor for E85; if you were to only modify the primary side to increase fuel flow by 30-35 percent and not modify the secondary, I could guess you may experience a lean condition at WOT that might do damage.
My experience with methanol with a mechanical fuel injection system has been it tends to run richer as you go to WOT, and therefor in some cases a need for a high speed leanout. Setting my tuneup with methanol, I have it set up very very lean to start so it can build engine heat quicker on startup. Once you rpm up, go do your burnout and make your way to WOT, the system goes richer with mechanical fuel injection. I'm guessing with E85 it would be similar with mechanical fuel injection, you will have to let us know how it works with a carburetor. Alan
20
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: FED Build
« on: November 24, 2021, 03:59:51 PM »
I'd heard story (friend of mine who raced at Lions in Long Beach) on reason dragster front axle had negative camber. As 60s dragsters got longer and longer, plus wheelie bars, engine torque plus the longer chassis flexing when launching would lift and carry the left front tire. The driver could still steer with the right front tire on the ground. Their thought was starting with negative camber, the single right front tire going to 0 degree camber would be easier to steer, versus starting with positive camber and having more positive camber added at launch when the left front goes up and carried for short distance.
Happy Thanksgiving to all.
Happy Thanksgiving to all.
21
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: FED Build
« on: November 24, 2021, 10:24:23 AM »
Lynn - I would guess you meant 1.2 degrees "negative" camber with solid dragster style axle. I forget myself which direction when thinking about negative and positive camber. My thoughts here, for a race car with independent front suspension, 1.2 degrees positive camber good. For your dragster with solid front axle, it will probably be 0 to 1 degrees negative camber (the top of the wheels tilt inward for negative camber). 0 degrees camber would be best considering rolling resistance.
Drag strips are flat & straight, not like a typical roadway. With positive camber, the wheels (steering) will have tendency to go in direction that has more positive camber on a flat straight road. For example, if your left wheel has 0.5 degree positive camber and your right wheel has 1.5 degree positive camber, your vehicle may tend slightly right.
However, the end result with your 60s style dragster with a skinny front tire like an Avon speedmaster, you will probably not notice any steering difference with a camber range between -1.5 to +1.5 degrees due to the minimum contact patch with the road surface.
p.s. FTF - I've had a few messes in my projects too, some big and some little mistakes, some I laugh about, some not so much.
Drag strips are flat & straight, not like a typical roadway. With positive camber, the wheels (steering) will have tendency to go in direction that has more positive camber on a flat straight road. For example, if your left wheel has 0.5 degree positive camber and your right wheel has 1.5 degree positive camber, your vehicle may tend slightly right.
However, the end result with your 60s style dragster with a skinny front tire like an Avon speedmaster, you will probably not notice any steering difference with a camber range between -1.5 to +1.5 degrees due to the minimum contact patch with the road surface.
p.s. FTF - I've had a few messes in my projects too, some big and some little mistakes, some I laugh about, some not so much.
22
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: FED Build
« on: November 23, 2021, 01:54:32 PM »
Here is another option (see link) for using your existing tube axle with 2" long kingpin boss. These new "Stiletto Spindles" are for a 2" boss and cost less than the Strange. Plus watch out for the Strange spindles that are adjustable height, I think they are 3" length. You do not want the adjustable Strange spindles for your dragster front axle.
https://secure.chassisshop.com/partlist/19813/
If you prefer to use your stock Anglia spindles, the Chassis Shop sells new Pro Werks axles that have 1.875 inch bosses. Refer to the advertisement with "SPE Axle" in the headings. And before you purchase, contact the Chassis Shop Company to verify your stock Anglia spindles with work with their new SPE axle. Here's the link:
https://secure.chassisshop.com/partlist/15365/
These Pro Werk axles are all 8 degrees. I know you are wanting to build a 60s style dragster. The front tire cross-section for a 60s style dragster is different than a front tire for a modern dragster. Are you familiar with an Avon Speedmaster tire used prolifically on front engine dragsters in the 60s? Their contact patch (more rounded) is different than a modern dragster front tire which has a very flat contact patch with the road surface. Use a new front tire similar to an Avon Speedmaster cross-section and your question of 7.5 or 8 degrees inclination related to camber will not be a factor for your dragster build. Original 10 degree Anglia spindles, I'm not aware of but it's possible.
If it were my decision, I'd prefer using the stock Anglia spindles, they fit the 60s fed theme better.
https://secure.chassisshop.com/partlist/19813/
If you prefer to use your stock Anglia spindles, the Chassis Shop sells new Pro Werks axles that have 1.875 inch bosses. Refer to the advertisement with "SPE Axle" in the headings. And before you purchase, contact the Chassis Shop Company to verify your stock Anglia spindles with work with their new SPE axle. Here's the link:
https://secure.chassisshop.com/partlist/15365/
These Pro Werk axles are all 8 degrees. I know you are wanting to build a 60s style dragster. The front tire cross-section for a 60s style dragster is different than a front tire for a modern dragster. Are you familiar with an Avon Speedmaster tire used prolifically on front engine dragsters in the 60s? Their contact patch (more rounded) is different than a modern dragster front tire which has a very flat contact patch with the road surface. Use a new front tire similar to an Avon Speedmaster cross-section and your question of 7.5 or 8 degrees inclination related to camber will not be a factor for your dragster build. Original 10 degree Anglia spindles, I'm not aware of but it's possible.
If it were my decision, I'd prefer using the stock Anglia spindles, they fit the 60s fed theme better.
23
Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Good Powerglide Build Book?
« on: November 05, 2021, 06:41:15 AM »
More info on that Frameworks shifter, the aluminum knob for reverse lockout is spring loaded and it's a pull operation, around 3/8 inch to clear lockout. This spring loaded knob requires 2 hands to operate shifter. If you are planning to install a foot brake, very good. If you plan to install a hand brake, not so good (unless you use a protree trans brake). The Frameworks shifter allows either a front or rear cable exit, depends on whether you are pulling or pushing the shift lever on the pg case. And yes, 1st to 2nd shift is one fast simple push of the shift lever.
Aerospace Components makes a very compact pg race shifter, and it's one-handed operation (it's pricey $700+). If you have machining talent, you should consider making a pg shifter, two racers (one flathead with pg and one twin-engine with pg) in our Racing Club made their own tube style shifter. A third racer in our Club had the Neil & Parks tube shifter in their Jr. Fuel car. Simple to operate, compact and lightweight. Alan
Aerospace Components makes a very compact pg race shifter, and it's one-handed operation (it's pricey $700+). If you have machining talent, you should consider making a pg shifter, two racers (one flathead with pg and one twin-engine with pg) in our Racing Club made their own tube style shifter. A third racer in our Club had the Neil & Parks tube shifter in their Jr. Fuel car. Simple to operate, compact and lightweight. Alan
24
Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: Good Powerglide Build Book?
« on: October 23, 2021, 12:31:50 PM »
Lynn - books are valuable way to gain smarts. I used a blue Motor Manual for rebuilding my first trans in 1976. Today, I'd look at a video first and then buy the book to rebuild a pg. PGs are very easy trans to take apart and put together requiring basic tools and a small spring compressor that you can make yourself with a 3/8" bolt/nut and 2 flat pieces of metal.
There are couple well known tricks to help a stock pg shift faster and improve the stock pump. Your could use them for your 300hp build. I looked and found these two very recent videos, they're very well done by a fellow racer and he does excellent job showing how easy it is to take apart pg, modify it to improve the pump and shift high gear faster, and then put back together. He does well in briefly explaining the "whys." Alan
Racing Powerglide Disassembly - YouTube
Complete Powerglide Build - YouTube
There are couple well known tricks to help a stock pg shift faster and improve the stock pump. Your could use them for your 300hp build. I looked and found these two very recent videos, they're very well done by a fellow racer and he does excellent job showing how easy it is to take apart pg, modify it to improve the pump and shift high gear faster, and then put back together. He does well in briefly explaining the "whys." Alan
Racing Powerglide Disassembly - YouTube
Complete Powerglide Build - YouTube
25
Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Clearancing connecting rod for camshaft clearance - Procedure?
« on: September 15, 2021, 07:23:57 AM »
Yes, 0.060 - 0.080 clearance would be good. Do you have a 6 inch steel I-beam rod you could try versus the 6 inch aluminum. If the steel I-beam clears the cam, then stack both rods together and do comparison and measurement in the specific conflict area to provide a "visual idea" of how much material you have to remove before you start. On this type project, it could be helpful to know if you are removing 0.060 or 0.160. Alan
26
Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Re: transmission case steel insert
« on: September 07, 2021, 12:55:51 PM »
wideopen231 - I had a earlier design aftermarket SFI pg with the inside case liner. When I sent it to Reid for SFI recert 7 years ago, you had to send the insert along with the case to receive new SFI sticker. The earlier design case and liner worked together for your SFI cert. I ran the liner in mine, maybe try find 3 pounds elsewhere to save weight not related to SFI : ) Your carbon fiber idea cuts weight. Maybe run 1/3 gallon less fuel to reduce weight. Alan
27
Altereds / Re: What axle oil to use?
« on: March 14, 2021, 03:07:42 PM »
I’ve used API GL-5 rated in my early Olds, no issues. However, I did a search and found on the Currie website they state GL-6 for their 9 inch or you void the warranty. See below from their site:
9-Inch API GL-6 Requirement
Due to the high-offset hypoid design (very high shear) of the 9-inch ring and pinion gears, a severe duty petroleum-based gear oil with API GL-6 specification is mandatory. The use of synthetic or GL-5 specification gear oils will result in premature wear of the gears and excess heat buildup that will damage internal components, voiding the Currie Warranty.
Also from the Currie site: ALTERNATIVE GEAR OILS THAT ARE PROVEN TO WORK IN 9-INCH REARENDS
Torco - RGO 85w-140
SWEPCO - 203 MolyXP Gear Lube 250w (Racing or extreme application)
And from Mark Williams Enterprises here in Colorado:
4) FILL REAR END ASSEMBLE WITH OIL. FOR DRAG RACING M-W RECOMMENDS TORCO 85-140 MINERAL BASED OIL.
For me, next time I change the diff oil, I'll use an API GL-6, probably the Torco 85w-140 mineral, no synthetic. Alan
9-Inch API GL-6 Requirement
Due to the high-offset hypoid design (very high shear) of the 9-inch ring and pinion gears, a severe duty petroleum-based gear oil with API GL-6 specification is mandatory. The use of synthetic or GL-5 specification gear oils will result in premature wear of the gears and excess heat buildup that will damage internal components, voiding the Currie Warranty.
Also from the Currie site: ALTERNATIVE GEAR OILS THAT ARE PROVEN TO WORK IN 9-INCH REARENDS
Torco - RGO 85w-140
SWEPCO - 203 MolyXP Gear Lube 250w (Racing or extreme application)
And from Mark Williams Enterprises here in Colorado:
4) FILL REAR END ASSEMBLE WITH OIL. FOR DRAG RACING M-W RECOMMENDS TORCO 85-140 MINERAL BASED OIL.
For me, next time I change the diff oil, I'll use an API GL-6, probably the Torco 85w-140 mineral, no synthetic. Alan
28
Altereds / Re: Weber carbs for a buick v6, hold on
« on: February 05, 2021, 04:37:32 PM »
buickfed - your 14.04 starting line ratio might be too aggressive (e.g. overpowering slicks). Of course with your two V6 Buicks inline, and we don’t know how much torque they make together, maybe not, it might be ideal. I’ll take a guess you’ll be shifting 1-2 right before the 60 foot line. Is 2nd gear a normal TH350 1.52? Alan
29
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Overseas new members ride
« on: February 01, 2021, 05:28:33 PM »
“Roots of Drag Racing” how appropriate; your pictures look like they were taken on an “airport runway.” In the beginning, I think early 1950s, they first had drag racing at Santa Ana Airport in Orange County CA. Now it’s renamed John Wayne Airport. We use to fly into John Wayne Airport yearly, I would tell my wife and anyone sitting next to me, this is where drag racing started : )
We have a small airport (really an airfield) near the town Julesberg, located in northeast corner of Colorado. It was also the site of early drag racing starting by the Platte Valley Customs car club in 1956. An interesting fun fact is the Julesberg airfield drag strip back then was a NHRA sanctioned track. Today they still close the airfield on some weekends and do drag racing meets. They do a Hot Rod Revival drag race typically in August, just like the good old days. Here’s a picture (I believe from Hot Rod Magazine Oct 1959) racing at Julesberg.
More info, I actually know both guys racing in the Oct. 1959 Julesberg photo, Butch Salter and Darrell Wark. Butch from the Denver area and Darrell from Goodland Kansas. The last time Darrell raced with our racing club was maybe 1998(?) Butch still involved in land speed racing, I think going 200+ at the Front Range Airport One Mile race on Labor Day weekend 2015, plus a long time ago Butch had a mid 60s Jr. Fuel dragster that now another friend of mine (J. Marlett) owns and has converted it to Ford V8 flathead powered with glide.
Butch told me his antique dragster in the Julesberg picture is long gone, but he still had the 4-banger engine sitting under his bench. My other picture “talk about roots of drag racing” is an early dragster that I bought 23 years ago and has just been hanging around. It’s a complete roller, vw torsion front, homemade straight tube axle with ford spindles, and narrowed banjo rear with the Chassis Research aluminum hubs with shortened banjo splined axles, and aluminum body panels. For the period (late 1950s) it is well built. The original owner/builder lived one block west of JCRS Shopping Center in Denver, and he had a Ford V8 flathead in it with 3-spd only using 2nd & 3rd. And no doubt raced at Julesberg and a few other drag strips in the area waaaay back then. Alan
We have a small airport (really an airfield) near the town Julesberg, located in northeast corner of Colorado. It was also the site of early drag racing starting by the Platte Valley Customs car club in 1956. An interesting fun fact is the Julesberg airfield drag strip back then was a NHRA sanctioned track. Today they still close the airfield on some weekends and do drag racing meets. They do a Hot Rod Revival drag race typically in August, just like the good old days. Here’s a picture (I believe from Hot Rod Magazine Oct 1959) racing at Julesberg.
More info, I actually know both guys racing in the Oct. 1959 Julesberg photo, Butch Salter and Darrell Wark. Butch from the Denver area and Darrell from Goodland Kansas. The last time Darrell raced with our racing club was maybe 1998(?) Butch still involved in land speed racing, I think going 200+ at the Front Range Airport One Mile race on Labor Day weekend 2015, plus a long time ago Butch had a mid 60s Jr. Fuel dragster that now another friend of mine (J. Marlett) owns and has converted it to Ford V8 flathead powered with glide.
Butch told me his antique dragster in the Julesberg picture is long gone, but he still had the 4-banger engine sitting under his bench. My other picture “talk about roots of drag racing” is an early dragster that I bought 23 years ago and has just been hanging around. It’s a complete roller, vw torsion front, homemade straight tube axle with ford spindles, and narrowed banjo rear with the Chassis Research aluminum hubs with shortened banjo splined axles, and aluminum body panels. For the period (late 1950s) it is well built. The original owner/builder lived one block west of JCRS Shopping Center in Denver, and he had a Ford V8 flathead in it with 3-spd only using 2nd & 3rd. And no doubt raced at Julesberg and a few other drag strips in the area waaaay back then. Alan
30
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Overseas new members ride
« on: January 29, 2021, 04:53:01 PM »
Finnish Fireball - made a magazine cover, congratulations. I’d say that’s pretty rare occurrence for us here to see our dragster on a cover. I see the word “dragster” with other words, what does it say? Alan
p.s. back around 1983, there was a picture of me driving my C2 vette in a City’s magazine news article.
p.s. back around 1983, there was a picture of me driving my C2 vette in a City’s magazine news article.