Messages

196

Drag Racing / rollers

« on: February 18, 2017, 08:16:53 PM »

seen a few nostalgia pictures where the fed's rear wheels were on a roller(s).  appears to be as pulling into or where the water box would be.

what was the purpose for these. 



ty
dean

197

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Zoomies vs collector headers

« on: February 18, 2017, 08:28:11 AM »

Maybe not  Megaphones. But what about stepped Zoomies?

in reading a bit, it sounds like the larger the exhaust opening (end) the stronger the negative pressure wave will be.  maybe this is why the megaphone is better then single diameter tube. 

maybe with the stepped zoomie there might be some benefit to this if calculated out correctly for each step.   i wondered about a reducing step and what effect that would have on the negative pressure wave if any.   sticking with conventional enlarging stepped headers, depending on where the step is, could tune it for the 5500-6500 range and probably wouldn't look bad either.

on my vw we went with stepped on third order.  total length was bout 36" long.  first two at 13" and then single about 13"   the turbo had divided housing and to effectively keep pulses equal for each side paired up opposing firing cylinders (1432 order) 1/3 2/4.  it would spool 30lbs in about .6 seconds on 70mm wheel for 140 cubes. 


dean

198

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Zoomies vs collector headers

« on: February 17, 2017, 11:02:52 AM »

Exactly,  If only we could build our motors from the Jegs or Summit catalog based on advertised HP gains listed with the parts, one could build a single carb 350 Chevy that made 1200 HP for $2500

you sure your on the right thread?

199

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Zoomies vs collector headers

« on: February 16, 2017, 09:36:05 PM »

  After talking with 4 different cam companies (who all had a little different idea of what was needed) they all pointed to a cam that needed more exhaust duration, an increased lobe separation angle, and minimum overlap as compared to a similar cam used with headers. Jones Cam Designs told me they did some tests years ago using zoomies and were emphatic that the exhaust side of the cam needed 10 degrees more duration than the intake.

 

one thing ive learned from hangin with my buddy who is the gearhead when it comes to engines.  he is a n20 guy, from what i understand the n20 guys move the exhaust lobe depending on how much hp they plan on making.  i think technically, they add the duration for the added exhaust from the n20 but then have to move the lobe to get the overlap back where they want it.   so, maybe in the sense of what the cam gurus are trying to do is help the scavenging of the exhaust by haning it open longer and also as the n20 cam guys do, move the lobe to get the overlap where it needs to be. i dont know if this is correct thinking but its something to discuss.

i wonder if its really fair test if just changing the headers and not changing the cam.  if setup is designed for collector style header setup and put zoomies on or visa versa, is it really an accurate assessment if one makes less/more hp then the other.

200

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Zoomies vs collector headers

« on: February 13, 2017, 05:57:08 PM »

Jim Fueling (rip) came up with those anti-reversion cones/headers back in the late70's, if they worked, they would still be used today you think?
 Again, long runs at a constant rpm could show some improvment (B'ville) but for the short duration of a drag race and that the classes that allow collectors are index/bracket---whats the point??

whats wrong with having a discussion about this (or anything else) even if your bracket/index racing?  The OP did not say anything about bracket/index racing.  its just a discussion between the two.

201

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: msd grid

« on: February 11, 2017, 08:00:28 AM »

was looking at the rules last night, looks like you can use in NE1-3.

what about using timers like the big guys do in J/F and 7.0?

dean

202

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: What to look for when buying a used chassis...

« on: February 04, 2017, 04:34:39 PM »

get pdf that way you always have a copy and then just print off whenever you need to. 

203

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Why my dragster keeps dying after a burn out, seems to run out of fuel

« on: February 01, 2017, 07:29:43 PM »

could if be to much fuel?  had this prob with drawthrough turbo setup on vw... do the burnout, then close the blades and motor would die.  it was flooded basically.  motor still wicked up, still sucking fuel, but throttle blades closed so no air.  also, been reading where guys on boosted apps where they are wanting less fuel during burnout.  i could only think of same issue we had with the drawthrough turbo setup.

whats the normal size for the feed tube from tank to pump too... like 1.25" or ?   

is this n/a or boosted setup?

dean

204

Drag Racing / Re: floater spindles

« on: February 01, 2017, 05:12:16 PM »

not right now, i was hoping to put the floater setup on even thought not needed.  already have 15" dia. wheels too.  not a big deal.  but, if someone has 16" wheels this is excellent price considering Strange and MW is considerably more.

205

Drag Racing / Re: floater spindles

« on: January 31, 2017, 08:05:07 PM »

learned to day the Mosers use 11.5 dia rotors so youll need 16" wheels. 

206

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Cost to build a new fed????

« on: January 31, 2017, 08:02:54 PM »

smokin deal right here if youll fit.  http://www.racingjunk.com/Dragsters/182838796/Dave-Uyehara-225-Front-Motored-Dragster.html

207

Drag Racing / Re: Great news for the High Plains!

« on: January 30, 2017, 12:35:21 PM »

With drag strips closing or the treat of them closing, this is excellent news. Its even better with the city behind it. 

208

Drag Racing / floater spindles

« on: January 27, 2017, 07:59:40 PM »

been looking at floater spindle setup for rearend. doing some search found out Moser makes a setup.  its about 1k plus less then new MW and strange.   i'd say its comparable to the Strange setup based on bearing dia.   the MW uses a bigger inner/outer bearing.

here is one of the kits http://www.moserengineering.com/part-ff4050-moser-full-floater-kit-assembly.html

comparison chart http://www.darkside.ca/node/195

if you were starting from scratch and if there was a possibility you might run headsup class in the future its only about 1k more to do this at time of initial build.

dean

209

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Cost to build a new fed????

« on: January 24, 2017, 10:19:02 PM »

with my car as follows is about 15k.   chassis w/ front spindles, all steering linkage, steering box, butter fly wheel, parachute (2) mounts and handles, motor mount/plate, brake handle, m/c, pedal, N&P shifter, seat, shorty body, front wing, fuel tank, milter bros housing, strange axles, brake, third member, drive shaft and couplers.

i have new front wheels, picked up some used rears that are new but never used, purchased trans and am at 20-21k.  need to get chutes, fire bottles, belts, and misc things so figure ill be about 24-25k into it rolling.. less electronics and motor/fuel system. 

as was eluded too earlier, i could of saved and purchased a used car but i would not of fit as im 6'4" and shoulders are about 21" wide.   i have seen a lot of cars out there with narrower (19") shoulder widths.   if i would of purchased a car as roller, how much money would it of cost me to have it modified assuming the shoulder width was acceptable.  further, the chassis im getting is built to 2.2C standards.  in the end, the base money spent for the chassis as comparable roller price isnt that much more and it is built to ME and is new.  i could of saved prob 1,500.00 by buying one chute, smaller axles, third member, etc... also, when i go to sell it, the car will have a higher resale value even though it doesn't matter what car you build, youll never get out of it what you have in it... thats just part of the game.

dean

210

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Cost to build a new fed????

« on: January 24, 2017, 06:40:14 PM »

3-4 yrs ago i started to build a FED theres even some pics in the build section, between working on customers stuff and other things life throw at you it never got finished..i actually cut the frame up becuase there where things i could have done better.... and i took the parts i had and had david beard put together a chassis for me last year, unless you have the time building one is great, years ago i also purchased a sw kit that i got halfway together and then sold becuase of lack of time. the kit was nice , but i personally think if you have a local source for tubing you could maybe save some coin by buying the bends you need from a shop that does bending to fit your needs and do it that way..... there prints are top notch and supplemented with the SFI prints you will have no problem building a spec chassis...... i am very happy with the chassis i got from david top notch fab work at a reasonable price....as others mentioned there is alot that goes into it and it really does not cost that much to just have a frame built

here is mine as it sits with wheels etc, no 3rd member, floater rear, there is about 13k into it....225" wheelbase.
 

dig your car and love the 'V' series wheels, i was wanting to do polished alum 'V' in front but opted for traditional spokes to save little money.  having floater setup, those wheels, etc and 13k is smokin deal. 

dean