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Topics - lake_harley

Pages: [1] 2 3
1
Front Engine Dragsters / Test N Tune
« on: March 22, 2024, 02:31:08 PM »
Heading to the drag strip for our second test and tune event of the year. We raced the car about 10 times last year but tonight is the first night I'm going to try making a pass. It's probably been 50 years since I made a pass down an 1/8 Mile track so if you see this in time let's get those prayers out there for a safe and enjoyable pass.

Lynn

2
Wanted to sell / New, Unused Dragster Axle
« on: November 26, 2023, 02:37:47 PM »
New dragster axle for aftermarket spindles. After I bought this axle I found out the kingpin bosses were too long for my original Anglia spindles. Center-to center kingpin width is 44". Drop is 4.5" measured from the top of the kingpin boss to top of axle tube center portion. Kingpin inclination as best as I can tell using a digital level is 8 degrees.

Location is Southeast Missouri. Price is $225 plus actual shipping.

Photos available via text. (573) 286-3335

Lynn Winter

3
Front Engine Dragsters / Still Haven't Raced At Our "Home" Track
« on: September 19, 2023, 07:13:11 PM »
After quite a few test sessions at what was to be our "home track" we were finally ready to race my FED. But, lightening really fried the timing system for the 2nd time this year and racing was off for several weeks. So, we bit the bullet and towed 2+ hours, instead of less than 1 hour, to race at another nearby track. We actually really like the place but the extra hour of travel is kinda hard on Sunday morning plans when it goes really late.

So, this weekend our "home" track is finally going to be back in operation, but no regular bracket program, it's a YouTube poster special 2-day event? Huh? A What?

But we're anxious to race so I guess it's another 4+ hour round trip. In reality, I think I'd lean toward wanting to run at the track further from home....it's quite well arranged and the people are really friendly.

Lynn

4
Front Engine Dragsters / Shift Light Placement
« on: July 27, 2023, 10:39:32 AM »
I had installed a simple ProForm shift light on my FED but it seems it's "flickery" and really not helpful.

To go to a better shift light I bought an AutoMeter 5350 Level 3 unit with more features, including a "launch" light, playback and recall.

I had the old shift light mounted on a bracket attached to a threaded boss on the intake manifold and the shift light was along side the GM HEI distributor. Originally, not wanting to cut the wires in case it needed to be moved I coiled up the wires and zip-tied them. Thinking the coiled wires might be a source of the flickering light I finally shortened the wires to get rid of any possible "inductance" (proper electrical term??) current between wires when wrapped up. That didn't help.

That's when I got the AutoMeter light and called factory support to ask about coiling the excess wires, telling him it was mounted right next to the HEI distributor. He said at that location it would not function properly because of electrical "noise" from the HEI.

Since cockpit space is already cramped I'm open to suggestions on where I could mount the light, maybe first trying the old one it at a different location. I don't really want to mount it on the cowl because that would require holes in my beautiful cowl, and I'd need to wire in a quick disconnect to be able to remove the cowl and put it off to the side of the car. Thought about fabricating a bracket off the front of the intake, near the water outlet (SBC), to see if that might get the light far enough away from the distributor electrical "noise".

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks, in advance!

Lynn

5
Front Engine Dragsters / 2nd Test Session This Evening
« on: July 14, 2023, 10:09:55 AM »
About 5 or 6 weeks ago we took my freshly completed FED for a few test passes. I was pleased that it didn't do anything crazy on the 4 mild passes that were made on that first outing.

Over the last few weeks the car was stripped to bare chassis and everything was cleaned and painted, along with finishing up a few other minor things. Basically doing what I hope were the last few details before some "real" testing.

The plan is to slowly approach a full-on pass. I don't know how many passes we'll have the opportunity to do during a test-n-tune night, but we hope to make some progress toward a full pass. Based on our first test session I hope we can get in at least 3, and hopefully 4 passes.

My fingers are crossed and most importantly I'm praying that we have a productive and safe session.

There is some forecast of pop-up rain and storms, so I'm watching the weather closely before I head out on the 1 hour trip to the track. I hope to have a progress report tomorrow.

Lynn

6
Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Powerglide Questions
« on: May 28, 2023, 06:38:00 PM »
I built the Powerglide for my FED using Carl Munroe's book "Powerglide Transmission Handbook" as a guide. When we did a few mild test passes with the car last week it seemed that it was more "sluggish", and took more throttle to move in Low than it did in 2nd (Drive) or Reverse (valve body converted to manual only, providing I did things right) The converter is a 10" Boss Hog unit that is considered 5000 stall but I was told by them that with the low HP of my car it would probably stall at about 4200 RPM. The PG doesn't have a trans brake....we're foot braking it. In general it just seemed it took less throttle in the pits to move in Drive or Reverse gears than it did in Low gear.

I have several thoughts on what might be causing the sluggishness, if it indeed does have an issue;

A) Perhaps nothing is wrong and it's quite normal? I've never had a light car like this with a high stall converter.

B) The Low band isn't holding? I can and will double check the band adjustment.

C) When I built the transmission I tried various steel and friction disc stacks to set clearance in the high gear clutch pack. After trying several combinations they all seemed to go from really loose to borderline tight. I finally assembled with the clearance borderline tight thinking that there might be a tiny bit of friction disc break-in wear on the new discs and that it might quickly  loosen up. I know the high and reverse clutch packs "slip" in low gear, so that might be adding too much drag if either clutch pack is tight?

D) I have read that Type F ATF provides a sharper shift than Dextron ATF. That sounded like a positive thing so I used Valvoline Type F fluid. Could it be that the Type F fluid is creating "stiction" in the clutch pack(s), especially with tight clearances? If that's a potential issue, are the fluid types compatible enough that I could drain and refill the transmission a couple times to dilute the amount of Type F fluid in the transmission?

Perhaps there could be other issues, or there might not be an issue at all, so I'm open to comments and suggestions.

Thanks, in advance!

Lynn

7
Front Engine Dragsters / Getting Closer
« on: March 04, 2023, 06:44:03 AM »
I still have a bit of work to do to the body panels, and a short list (for now) of other small items to finish up before a 1st fire up to see if my FED will move on it's own power. It's been about 16 months to go from what I envisioned to what you see here. I want to thank everyone who gave me ideas and guidance along the way with what has seemed like an endless series of questions and head scratching.

Lynn




8
Front Engine Dragsters / Brake Fluid Question
« on: February 22, 2023, 06:35:38 PM »
As I close in on the last few items on finishing my FED, I'm ready to fill and bleed the brakes. I have a Strange Engineering master cylinder P.N. B3362 like this:    https://www.strangeengineering.net/product/dragster-master-cylinder-reservoir-777-primary.html/

On their website it states that silicone brake fluid is not recommended. I'll live with using DOT3 if I have to but I wonder why no DOT5 silicone fluid? I use DOT5 on my 2 hot rods and have no complaints.

When I was looking into DOT5 fluid for my hot rods (T roadster and Model A Coupe) I did find mentions of a "soft" pedal and difficulty bleeding the system since bubbles of air are very slow to rise out of the fluid. I've never had those issues on my cars.

I'd prefer to use DOT5 since it doesn't destroy paint and my brake bleeders are not real easy to get to once the body side panels are on. If I must use DOT3 (or whatever) I will, but I wonder what the reason might be for Strange's recommendation. I've tried to reach their tech service through messages and an e-mail but never received any reply. So.....does anyone have any experience with that master cylinder or know what the reason might be to not use silicone fluid in it?

Thanks. You gentlemen always come through with answers to my silly questions, and I appreciate it!

Lynn.

9
Front Engine Dragsters / Switch Panel Placement
« on: February 13, 2023, 08:00:57 AM »
My FED is really coming together, and I'm steadily crossing things off of the to-do list.

One of the next items on the list is wiring the car and I'm trying to decide placement of a switch panel. I feel it maybe needs to be just ahead of the grips of the butterfly steering wheel and centered so it doesn't interfere with leg movement for getting in or out of the car. I'm thinking maybe a vertical panel about even with the wheel QD, just above the axle housing/3rd member surface. I could possible mount it to either a bracket off of the 3rd member bolts, or something built on to the steering shaft support tube that runs from side to side of the top chassis tube. From where that tube is located, the bracket would have to extend back about 6" from the support tube to be an easy reach for the driver.

I have plans to have a master power switch (that will kill all circuits), ignition switch, start button, and switches for the electric water pump, fuel pump and radiator cooling fan. I do have a cable operated high amperage battery cut off near the battery in front of the engine with a "Push-to-kill" big red knob at the left rear corner of the car. It kills everything including power to the starter. The water pump, fuel pump and fan will all be wired through relays and I plan to mount them near the mid-plate to minimize the length of wires to be run. All circuits will be separately fused on a 6 fuse panel and a main 30A breaker will power everything

I've searched for examples of similar switch panels, but haven't found much between a very basic 2 or 3 switch/control panel and a full-on dash with gauges. I don't plan any gauges in the cockpit. I do plan to have an adjustable shift light at the front of the cowl mounted to the mid-plate or back of the engine. When the cowl is removed I want all wiring and switches exposed for service/trouble shooting.

Anyone have any photos of a panel similar to what I described? I'm doing this all myself (I live in a rural area) with no one nearby who has been-there-done-that.

Thanks, in advance.

Lynn

10
Front Engine Dragsters / Battery Cut-Off/Kill Switch
« on: January 07, 2023, 08:00:59 PM »
I hope to be wiring my FED soon and want to do it right. I've read some on battery cut offs and kill switches and the required/suggested locations for either or both, but remain a bit confused (nothing new there).

I'll be running a GM HEI battery powered distributor, so killing the power to it will kill the engine. Does there need to be a main battery cable run all the way to the rear of the car and then back up to power the starter to disable the entire electrical system? Seems like all of that "hot" battery cable from in front of the engine, where the battery is located, to the back for a main disconnect/emergency kill switch is a danger in itself.

I plan to have my single wire alternator alternator wire going directly to the battery positive. If all of the power for everything else in the car goes to the back of the car with a "Push Off" main switch and goes to a junction block to power the ignition, start button, fuel pump, water pump and taillight is that OK? Pushing it "Off" would kill all power (and the engine) other than the alternator wire and the positive battery cable to the main starter lug. That main power feed (maybe 10 Ga.?) going to the "Kill" switch could be fused in the front so power would be interrupted in case it were to be shorted out on the run to the back of the car. I'm guessing it would need to run through a section of tubing where it passes the flywheel and torque converter.

I hope my rambling isn't too random to understand. Suggestions, or better yet, a wiring diagram would be helpful and appreciated. I'm not totally illiterate when it comes to electric circuits but want to be in line with what's appropriate for a mild, bracket race FED.

As always, thanks, in advance!

Lynn

11
Front Engine Dragsters / Posting Question
« on: December 30, 2022, 07:46:23 AM »
I just posted a question regarding parachute mounting and now it doesn't even show up when I click on it. I tried to post 2 photos with the text. What might I have done wrong? I'm pretty much computer illiterate.

Lynn

12
Front Engine Dragsters / Parachute Mounting
« on: December 30, 2022, 07:34:32 AM »
So far through searching I haven't really found any good instructions or guidelines for mounting a parachute to my FED. I know there are dangers to having the tether mounted too high or too low. One suggestion was to have the tether mount on a plane that would run through the camshaft. That seems reasonable.

I just bought a new Stroud 401 Chute and do have a 4-hole mounting plate that came along with some assorted parts I bought from someone on this forum. I guess 4 holes get punched through the chute pack to mount the pack to the chassis? Of course the tether would have to mount to a separate strong "pull point" at the appropriate height on the rear of the chassis.

Hopefully 2 photos of the rear of my chassis will appear below. Perhaps some recommendations can be made regarding mounting points for the pack itself and the chute tether. I will be installing wrap-around shoulder belts to the horizontal tube that's about 6-7" long located just below the shoulder hoop with the belts going over the shoulder hoop. I'm guessing that area would be good for the placement of the pack so the chute would be deployed (spring deploy) into an area with good airflow. Suggestions on the tether mount and what type bracketry would be appropriate in terms of tube diameter and wall thickness and bracket tab thickness would be appreciated.

I'm learning a lot through building this car and I'd like to think I'm smart enough to ask for guidance when I run into safety related questions. Thanks, in advance!

Lynn

 

13
Front Engine Dragsters / Cage/Helmet Clearance
« on: September 15, 2022, 07:17:08 PM »
Started constructing and planning the roll cage for my FED. Driver was here today and we mocked it up with him in the car, helmet on, with 2" of clearance over the top of his helmet. To that we added the thickness of SFI padding to be installed. Called S&W race cars where I bought my chassis plans and talked to a tech. He said there's no actual minimum but to have enough clearance for some head movement, and not so tight to hamper doing a quick get-out in an emergency. So, am I on the right track with 2" between the helmet and the roll bar padding? It seemed to me that too much clearance would be as bad as not enough.

I'll appreciate thoughts.

Lynn

14
Front Engine Dragsters / S&W Race Cars Website Issue?
« on: July 15, 2022, 10:58:06 AM »
Anyone used S&W Race Cars website lately? I got an e-mail that they were having a sale and thought I'd take a look but I'm getting a message that the link might not be secure? I'm computer illiterate for the most part, but even doing a google search "S&W Race Cars" brings up the same message.  :(

Lynn

15
Front Engine Dragsters / Material For Seat/Interior Wrap
« on: July 09, 2022, 10:01:17 AM »
I have patterns made to do the interior wrap/seat for the FED I'm building and wondered what material to use. My plan is that the wrap will be on the inside of the roll cage/chassis structure and will extend to a vertical tube just behind the rearend housing and will also be used as the seat. I have 2 - 2" X 1/8" steel straps welded to the cage which are curved to form the seat bottom, and will be either riveted (maybe solid driven rivets), or welded to the wrap to make it one piece. My patterns are Left and Right and will be butted and spliced together with a strip again riveted or welded together in the center behind the driver's spline. I would put the splice strip to the outside, so the inside would be smooth. I plan to install it using Dzus button head fasteners. FWIW, the outer body panels (outside the chassis tubes) would extend slightly past the forward edge of the interior so they would actually have an overlap.

All that being said, I have three types of material in my shop to do the wrap and the seat bottom and wonder if any of them would be an appropriate or acceptable material....18 Ga. mild steel, .040" aluminum and .063" aluminum. I believe the aluminum sheets are 5052 alloy.

I would appreciate some input from experience and say "Thank You" in advance. There's probably a spec somewhere in some rules, but I haven't dug around the internet for it yet.

Thanks

Lynn

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