FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Technical => Matt Shaff's Engine Shop => Topic started by: ChevJerico on February 12, 2019, 04:05:24 AM
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I'd like to step up and run Nostalgia Eliminator, I can build SBC, BBC, but would love to have the cool factor of a Hemi. Build something that looks vintage. I go to many nostalgia races, but this year I plan on networking more and picking racers brains. See what I can learn. I'm not jumping into anything. Figured I'd start out and build an engine mainly for the fun factor. Then find a roller.
What's a typical 600HP 392 build look like? I know many are injected on alcohol. Can you do it with stock rockers, and the smallish cams that go with them? Buy taller stands maybe for more lift? What valve sizes are most common if bigger then stock? Maybe just put a 6-71 on a simpler build? Looking for smart builds, not cubic dollar builds. Safe reliable low RPM power.
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Two sites to read are
https://myth-racing.com/tech-talk/ (this site is often down)
And Alky diggers article by Gene Adams.
This is very doable, but you may feel like a salmon swimming against the flow of sbc,bbc .
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Two sites to read are
https://myth-racing.com/tech-talk/ (this site is often down)
And Alky diggers article by Gene Adams.
This is very doable, but you may feel like a salmon swimming against the flow of sbc,bbc .
Cool, I've read the Gene Adams article. I'll check out the other. Wow that's good stuff. Glad you told me about it ;D
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I think the first question to be asked is can you find any components like heads, blocks and cranks that are usable?
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Two sites to read are
https://myth-racing.com/tech-talk/ (this site is often down)
And Alky diggers article by Gene Adams.
This is very doable, but you may feel like a salmon swimming against the flow of sbc,bbc .
The myth website is an amazing read! Thanks again. Exactly what I was looking for.
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I think the first question to be asked is can you find any components like heads, blocks and cranks that are usable?
There is an A1 block local standard bore, that has minimum rust, and a set of 555 heads, and a standard crank. Two different guys. One has a block with 4 bolt main conversion with low miles. He wants 2K for that. I'm just looking right now.
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I have a friend - Racin' Jacin Barnes - of Wycliffe Ohio, who decided to build himself his first real race car. He decided on a front engine digger with a blown hemi. Of course, a logical "first race car". Not. Anyhow, the car turned out beautifully. He did a great job on it, all himself - chassis, body, engine etc. But he decided to hedge his bets and instead of bolting on the blower and injectors he just mounted a set of Hilborns to the 392 8.0:1 long block. He runs low nines with it on pump gas and has had such a ball running it he has no immediate plans to bolt up the blower setup sitting on his workbench.
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Next question would be are you after coolness or functionality and more cost effective?
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10215584061893239&set=gm.705300886471361&type=3&theater&ifg=1
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I agree, to build a "Cool car " will no doubt cost more, lots of SBC parts out there.
We run NHRA Heritage JrFuel on the west coast and have won Championship with SBC and early all iron Hemi. Rules are heads and block must be iron.
We have run 7.0's to 7.20's at 185-189 mph with our Gene Adams orginally built 354 block [ lighter/stronger than 392] and 331 heads at 409 ci engine, rule limit was 410 ci, not its 430ci.
We broke a block in 2012, and it was tuff finding a good sonic tested machineable block. After maching we filled the block with epoxy , at Gene's suggestion, but it ran about 2 tenths slower, we and Gene could not figure it out because we only chaged the block, no other combo change. We discovered on the the second race that we had scuffed pistons, not in the skirt area bur in the wrist pin area ???
Our machine shop ran into a filled block problem before. Well it turned out the block was squzing the cyclinders, because when we raced it heated up and caused the epoxy to expand . So we put it in an oven until it stopped changing the bore size, then bored it again to get new pistons to fit.
BTW this is an all iron motor with stack injectors, zoomies, and a powerglide burning pure alky, in a 1480 lb FED with driver. We shift around 9200 and we have shifed at 9800, no breakage but I don't recommend that high. We run 31x12x15 Goodyears on 11 or 12" rims and 4.56 rear gears and a 1.69 first gear, with 7" converter, stalling at 7900 to 8400 rpm.
So now that I've given you all my secret combo, Good luck with your project. If you want to see us run the Hemi and hang-out with us, we are racing the 2019 March Meet next month, in Bakersfield Ca.
Cheers , Jon at Hayden Wheels 800-624-3803
I thought I would let you know what you might be up for.
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I have a friend - Racin' Jacin Barnes - of Wycliffe Ohio, who decided to build himself his first real race car. He decided on a front engine digger with a blown hemi. Of course, a logical "first race car". Not. Anyhow, the car turned out beautifully. He did a great job on it, all himself - chassis, body, engine etc. But he decided to hedge his bets and instead of bolting on the blower and injectors he just mounted a set of Hilborns to the 392 8.0:1 long block. He runs low nines with it on pump gas and has had such a ball running it he has no immediate plans to bolt up the blower setup sitting on his workbench.
Must be one cool guy if he's from Ohio ;)
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Next question would be are you after coolness or functionality and more cost effective?
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10215584061893239&set=gm.705300886471361&type=3&theater&ifg=1
Cool factor, I already have a SBC in my Chevelle and building a BBC for it now. If it's just not feasible to run a Hemi then I'll go Chevy and make it look period. I'm not looking to lean on it. I'm somewhere in between a cackle guy and a serious racer. More towards the racer.
Link didn't work?
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I agree, to build a "Cool car " will no doubt cost more, lots of SBC parts out there.
We run NHRA Heritage JrFuel on the west coast and have won Championship with SBC and early all iron Hemi. Rules are heads and block must be iron.
We have run 7.0's to 7.20's at 185-189 mph with our Gene Adams orginally built 354 block [ lighter/stronger than 392] and 331 heads at 409 ci engine, rule limit was 410 ci, not its 430ci.
We broke a block in 2012, and it was tuff finding a good sonic tested machineable block. After maching we filled the block with epoxy , at Gene's suggestion, but it ran about 2 tenths slower, we and Gene could not figure it out because we only chaged the block, no other combo change. We discovered on the the second race that we had scuffed pistons, not in the skirt area bur in the wrist pin area ???
Our machine shop ran into a filled block problem before. Well it turned out the block was squzing the cyclinders, because when we raced it heated up and caused the epoxy to expand . So we put it in an oven until it stopped changing the bore size, then bored it again to get new pistons to fit.
BTW this is an all iron motor with stack injectors, zoomies, and a powerglide burning pure alky, in a 1480 lb FED with driver. We shift around 9200 and we have shifed at 9800, no breakage but I don't recommend that high. We run 31x12x15 Goodyears on 11 or 12" rims and 4.56 rear gears and a 1.69 first gear, with 7" converter, stalling at 7900 to 8400 rpm.
So now that I've given you all my secret combo, Good luck with your project. If you want to see us run the Hemi and hang-out with us, we are racing the 2019 March Meet next month, in Bakersfield Ca.
Cheers , Jon at Hayden Wheels 800-624-3803
I thought I would let you know what you might be up for.
Shoot Jon, I wish. There are two things I look forward to more then anything. Going to the MM, and CHRR. This year we will be in Floridia for the Gatornationals. Going to visit with family, and take my brother to the races. I'd rather be at the MM! Would love to come by and check you guys out. I'll take a rain check. I love your dragster. As cool as it gets in my opinion! I definitely don't plan to run at that level, but would love to learn about your car!