Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - AF150

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 7
16
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: FED & Transbrake
« on: May 08, 2019, 01:04:59 PM »
I liked to leave  between 3K & 4K rpm with or without a 2-step. Even when using the 2-step, very little throttle opening is required. You don't want the throttle blades wide open with no pump speed. It will be lean and may hesitate. Stage it above idle (about 3500 rpm) and let go the trans brake button and mat the gas at the same time. We got 1.08 -1.10 60 ft. times and reaction times around .030 sec. if I was paying attention.

Mike

17
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: GOT MY LICENSE...FINALLY
« on: May 02, 2019, 08:14:26 AM »
Way to go...now on to that first round win!  Whoo-hoo!

18
Wanted to sell / 1 set of MSD late hemi plug wires.
« on: May 01, 2019, 09:27:36 AM »
MSD plug wires for late model hemi.  $100  includes shipping to lower 48.

Call Mike at (719)three 45-33six3

19
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Power+weight+time.
« on: January 20, 2019, 08:44:10 AM »
Our combination: 200" FED, 365 cu. in. Blown Chrysler on alcohol. Engine level and 44" out. Weighed 1680 ready to race (1260 rear, 420 front). Ran on a 4.65 sec. 1/8th mile index. With 6-71 running 10% underdrive, we run the number @ 150mph. Same set-up ran 7.30s in 1/4 mile @ 180mph. Guess we were making around 850 hp but what was really important was tires, converter and starting line RPM. Good 60' time is
needed. Ours was around 1.10 sec.   I think 140" WB is too short for a serious FED these days considering tire,engine, trans/converter/clutch technology available now.

20
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Budget rail
« on: January 17, 2019, 08:00:14 AM »
Don't forget to get the SFI book. No sense building something that won't certify.

21
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: how to buy a dragster in another state
« on: September 21, 2018, 12:56:37 PM »
Better go look at it. Make sure you fit in the car with a firesuit on. I would want a current chassis inspection
at least 7.50. (you might want to sell it sometime)  Some older chassis have had a rough life...Lots of changes, etc.  Make sure the welds and mounting brackets are done properly. Your life depends on it.

MB

22
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: introduction
« on: July 08, 2018, 08:27:16 AM »
Welcome Mark.  I have run a similar rig...will help if I can.

23
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: I know Why NITRO is $35 a Gallon
« on: April 24, 2018, 11:09:17 AM »
Dave...
Way back in the late '90s we changed our jr/fuel set-up over to nitro in order to run
NE-1 at the West coast events. Our combination was:
406 ci small block Chevy, 10.5:1 compression, iron heads that flowed 306 cfm @ .700,
PG150-1 pump with Hilborn 30A nozzles. Barrel valve @ 28 %. Car was a Hollander/Brown FED 190" wb that
weighed 1475 on the starting line. 4.10 rear & Goodyear 12-30X15 tires. Powerglide had 1.76 low gear.
Conditions were good at the March Meet in 1999. Density alt.at first pass was 1074 ft. Mixture was 35% nitro, .092 main, high speed at 70 psi and ignition at 40°.
Result was 1.12 60', 4.76  1/8th. 7.46 @ 179.78  1/4 mile.
NE-1 index was 7.50 at that time so we backed off to 30%, qualified @ 7.52 and
Managed to win the race on a double breakout 7.49 to 7.46 final.
This combo was very durable and won a lot for us. No bearing problems or breakage.
Fuel set-up credit goes to Gene Adams and Jim Archer. Hope this helps.
PS...Jim Scott now owns this car and still runs it out West.

Mike

24
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: SWJFA
« on: March 21, 2018, 07:47:59 PM »
I used to race with these guys...really good group. Check out their website.

25
Wanted to sell / Re: Hilborn Injector
« on: June 28, 2017, 01:46:06 PM »
SOLD

26
Here is another routine that we have been using for many years...
Drain the tank and all supply / return lines. Mix up a batch of ~ 70% gasoline and
30% motor oil. Remove all spark plugs. Take the line from the shut-off valve to the
barrel valve loose at the shut-off valve. With air compressor on and a helper standing
by (was usually my wife) fill the line to the barrel valve with gas/oil. Also apply mix
to the pump thru open shut-off valve. Have the helper spin the engine and open the
throttle as you force the mix thru the whole system with compressed air.( Don't stand
in front of the spark plug holes.) This cleans and lubricates the the whole fuel system
and the top-end of the engine. Might put more mix in the pump and turn engine backwards just to make sure all alcohol is removed and pump is well lubed. Dry the
tank and other lines with compressed air cause you don't want to leave alcohol sitting in anything, especially anything aluminum. Replace spark plugs and lines.

Next time you warm-up the engine, all the mix will disappear and you will pass fuel
check if that is a class requirement. Running upper-lube in your alcohol may not.

MB

27
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Chassis support
« on: December 03, 2016, 10:06:18 AM »
This is a serious problem. More dragsters are damaged riding in the trailer than racing.
We used the same technique as Dusterdave with the addition of tie-down rings in the trailer floor near the front of the engine. Used ratchet tie-downs from the front engine mounts to the floor on each side. Also air up the slicks to 10-12lbs. This keeps the chassis from flexing even on rough roads. This worked on a 200" FED w/ a blown Chrysler for over 7 years.  Easy chassis dolly can be made from a Harbor Freight trailer dolly (about $65). Sure helps loading & unloading.

Mike

28
The March Meet has been the best drag racing since 1959. Wish I could be there but I will be watching
Bangshift.

29
Wanted to sell / Re: Dragster For Sale
« on: October 19, 2015, 01:41:23 PM »
Sold

30
Wanted to sell / Re: Dragster For Sale
« on: September 02, 2015, 05:47:43 PM »
Bump

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 7