FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Drag Racing Discussions => Front Engine Dragsters => Topic started by: wideopen231 on August 29, 2018, 05:34:59 AM
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About ready to get some hits in,once can get car to track. As with all its guess or swag figuring where to start with tune up. Fuel I think I know where I am at,thats a swag. FED tuning is new. Now if it where blown hemi with 14-71 or screw blower and hays 6 finger clutch I would be set to go. 6000 and let rip. Launching FED with PG is little different.LOL Wondering what some of you are launching at. I know it runs up to stall and thats not changable,well not with chip or foot. Please give little combo info with reply.
I'm guessing 3500 to 4000 chip in two step And use foot to keep just below till second bulb has been on while.
Combo is 225 ",1.69 low,4.10 rear,526 hemi about 1050 hp and god help me no blower,first car in 25 years w/o one.
Oh 15x15x32 M/T tires. Yes I do have wheelie bars and plan to use them.
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holy moly...1050hp. impossible to make with our little s/c 350 buick. lol.
with our 50 yr old Gilmore chassis, p/g, 4.10's and 33x10.5-15's we launch at 3600. tried 4k and the chassis just tweaks all over the place. looks real ugly doing it.
we are knocking on the 8'er door. 9.02 & 147 so far.
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hope my 6 yo never run down track tube behaves better.LOL
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I"ve heard stall minus 500 RPM is most aggressive launch. I leave about 5000-5200RPM, converter stalls at 6200. I use RPM to tune my lights.
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well 6000 means non aggressive with 6600 stall?
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I would think it is gonna flash and leave pretty hard if leaving @ 6000
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6000 statement was more of joke. But I did use to leave when I felt motor load against converter in my old nova and had 6000 stall in it.
Said using rpm to adjust for lights.I take it you are not running full tree and top bulbing with delay box. I have SLE hooked up,but don;t like how it goes WOT on second bulb and runs up on 2 step. Working on getting driver where can hit throttle between second and 3rd bulb and maybe tickle 2 step or avoid all together. Hard teaching old dog these new tricks.
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We race on a .4 Pro tree. i too have a SLE. When we are both in, my foot goes to the wood, blades crack, to around 5000rpm, and the SLE opens with the brake release.
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Sweet pic Greg, I think I might know the guy in the blue dragster behind you in the staging lanes... Wow I think the hardest part is going to be finding the right air pressure in the 15" wide slicks and not setting the wheelie bar too high. We worked with 14 x 32 slicks for some time and could only run 5 to 5.5 psi in them or it would dead hook and put the wheelie bar to the test. We changed to a 33 x 10.5w M/T with no tubes and shaved like 20 lbs per side and the dragster picked up a bunch in the 60'. It was a 565 BBC injected alky deal. Good luck and most of all have Good Times. Like Greg said the launch rpm effected the RT more than anything and he has way more passes than I have by a long shot.
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15x14x32 slicks might be more than need and as always with tuning time will tell especially the elapsed time. Going off bracket race theory of big tire loose converter equals consistent and that's equals win lights. Believe me tuning for consistent instead of balls to the wall at any parts cost is new deal for me. But if not for challenge and learning new what fun would life be? Plus got to show these bracket guys a race car can different,cool and win races.
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The best tool I have used on my car and others for launch control is leave RPM--Lower and lower until car behaves and starts to leave right High leave RPM on my injected car upsets things so bad that it ruins the run, may tire shake, fill in the blank______________________ Mine likes about 2500 RPM off footbrake
Now on my friends car when he went blown the reverse was true--when he used low leave RPM it was a nightmare --when he stalled the heck out of it --things turned around and started working like a charm
You have so much power that it is just going to be a few weeks or more before you find out what it likes
I would say less violent is way to go so lower, way lower than you think
Just my two cents worth--never had your kind of power--never will LOL
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All in perception I guess. I look at 1000 hp and think man this little thing is going to need some boost to get fun.Its like my Harley never gets enough power to suit. Then I thought well dragster made 3000 hp weighed 2000 lbs so a 750 lb harley needs about 1000 hp to get to same fun meter reading.
I think lower power car may have problem getting up on tire,so you have to go other way.As Dave said with high power cars(meaning blower power) you have to hit it hard and get it up on the tire. This biggest thing we did with our TA/FC,but thats total different deal. I know Frank Parks said getting on tire was key to getting strong run w/o shake. I also know most Jr. fuel guys leave pretty hard,while smaller motors they are fairly stout power wise. Judging from numbers I would say most Jr. fuel guys are 800 hp or more and guessing more. Maybe Jon can chime in on this.
Dave maybe right about lower than I am thinking. My thoughts are 4500 maybe 5000 starting point,make moves in 500 increments till zeroing in on what works. Bad thing is around here T&T nights mean lots of street junk and lousy track,but if can get down junk track good track should be easy.LOL On my old RED with BBC,3 spd lenco and clutch I staged on shift light,to my understanding the starting line crew came to life 8000 and drop clutch,Yea what kind of idiot has 3 spd lenco in a bracket car? Don't try that at home and didn't work to well either.
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We race on a .4 Pro tree. i too have a SLE. When we are both in, my foot goes to the wood, blades crack, to around 5000rpm, and the SLE opens with the brake release.
Almost exactly what I want on mine to do ,except want it to work on full tree. Don't want it sitting there at 5000 dropping cylinder every other with BV wideopen and holding for 1 to 1.1 seconds.At 5000(2500 engine) that is about 3.5 to 4 gpm . 1 second doesn't sound like much to most,but look at a data download and how much crap happens in 1 second.
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My stall is 6400 RPM and my two step is 4400.
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All in perception I guess. I look at 1000 hp and think man this little thing is going to need some boost to get fun.Its like my Harley never gets enough power to suit. Then I thought well dragster made 3000 hp weighed 2000 lbs so a 750 lb harley needs about 1000 hp to get to same fun meter reading.
I think lower power car may have problem getting up on tire,so you have to go other way.As Dave said with high power cars(meaning blower power) you have to hit it hard and get it up on the tire. This biggest thing we did with our TA/FC,but thats total different deal. I know Frank Parks said getting on tire was key to getting strong run w/o shake. I also know most Jr. fuel guys leave pretty hard,while smaller motors they are fairly stout power wise. Judging from numbers I would say most Jr. fuel guys are 800 hp or more and guessing more. Maybe Jon can chime in on this.
Dave maybe right about lower than I am thinking. My thoughts are 4500 maybe 5000 starting point,make moves in 500 increments till zeroing in on what works. Bad thing is around here T&T nights mean lots of street junk and lousy track,but if can get down junk track good track should be easy.LOL On my old RED with BBC,3 spd lenco and clutch I staged on shift light,to my understanding the starting line crew came to life 8000 and drop clutch,Yea what kind of idiot has 3 spd lenco in a bracket car? Don't try that at home and didn't work to well either.
I go test now on RACE night--I get two to three test runs on good track and first round on great track--and ..get lucky and strap one on somebody you get another free run so lots of incentive to nail them ! I NEVER go on T&T nights ever--good way to wreck your stuff Kids in 4wd Pickups dropping rocks on track and AC drains --not me man
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Most tracks TnT night is a joke and waste of time and money.
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TnT - that's been my experience too. If you want to try a high HP car be the first there, make two passes as back-to-back as possible, and put it on the trailer. (I'm headed out the door to Milan right now to do just that for their Nostalgia weekend Fri, Sat, and Sunday. Running N/Comp index class .400 pro tree.)
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Really? That's too bad because the Auto Club Famoso Raceway always gives us an national event caliber track for TNT.
Of course the Auto Club Dragway at Fontana is closer and a easier drive for us, but no thanks. ;D
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Well hopefully I will be hitting test and tune real soon. I figure to run car little rich,pull little timing and put on a show. I ain't John Force,but I am a showman.LOL Figure if can get down that I should be golden come race weekends. Plus If I can time it to hit on Big Dog night I should have no problem.Around here that's the big night at local track. Most cars are 4.20 to 4.70 door cars,so tracks good.
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We race on a .4 Pro tree. i too have a SLE. When we are both in, my foot goes to the wood, blades crack, to around 5000rpm, and the SLE opens with the brake release.
Almost exactly what I want on mine to do ,except want it to work on full tree. Don't want it sitting there at 5000 dropping cylinder every other with BV wideopen and holding for 1 to 1.1 seconds.At 5000(2500 engine) that is about 3.5 to 4 gpm . 1 second doesn't sound like much to most,but look at a data download and how much crap happens in 1 second.
With my delay box you could sit there at dead idle with foot to the floor and set the SLE to pull throttle open at any time before the brake releases.
Or set any RPM you wanted when your foot goes to the floor.
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There are a lot of variables here, tire size, weight, balance, stall convertor, horsepower and on and on. Nobody can tell you where you need to launch because of the variables and your car is different than all others out there. Set it say 4600 and run it then go from there.
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We race on a .4 Pro tree. i too have a SLE. When we are both in, my foot goes to the wood, blades crack, to around 5000rpm, and the SLE opens with the brake release.
Almost exactly what I want on mine to do ,except want it to work on full tree. Don't want it sitting there at 5000 dropping cylinder every other with BV wideopen and holding for 1 to 1.1 seconds.At 5000(2500 engine) that is about 3.5 to 4 gpm . 1 second doesn't sound like much to most,but look at a data download and how much crap happens in 1 second.
With my delay box you could sit there at dead idle with foot to the floor and set the SLE to pull throttle open at any time before the brake releases.
Or set any RPM you wanted when your foot goes to the floor.
ea that was idea.Little did I know that K&R delay box is onl one with set in stone timer on sle.Noy knocking the box just a feature I wish it did not have. seems only out is to sell bos for loss and spend 100 more than this one cost for Biondo.So basically another 200 after sselling this one. With top of my very long list of need items being a trailer,its not happening for while so till then I can either live with timer or just yank sle off and drive more old school and do one of those things driver is suppose to dao.Hit the throttle at right time. In my case I am thinking about time between 2nd and 3rd bulb on full tree. I am told will be less consistent that way.WHY? Beats me I will have already hit or missed tree before then and I know I am old but thats how I ran my first car/Way back in the late 80's and heck it ran same number almopst every run. Driver might be issue.LMAO