Messages

31

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: two step with mag

« on: October 03, 2017, 12:03:30 PM »

Scott Parks made me a cool little EMI tight box that I put my 2 step in. Don't know if it helps wiyh the interference from the mag much but the lid of the box keeps a little positive pressure on the MSD chips helping to keep them plugged in. Also, for you guys that like to keep everything secret, the box prevents anyone from seeing what rpm you're launching at.

32

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: two step with mag

« on: October 01, 2017, 10:59:52 AM »

It will work fine Chris. I'm using a 2 step and a MSD mag 20 on my deal. No issues

33

Electronics / Re: 2-step

« on: September 26, 2017, 03:09:25 PM »

I really like the MSD 2-Step in mine. The over-rev protection is good insurance and the starting line launch rpm makes sense for trying to run NHRA comp on a staggered sportsman tree. One note of caution, there is a tolerance on those rpm chip values so you should really check the advertised rpm against the actual from the RacePak.

34

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: A little nitro results

« on: September 26, 2017, 03:02:25 PM »

I saw a couple of Bill's runs on Sunday. Even with the 12%in it, I could smell the nitro from the grandstands when he was backing up. Great job to Bill, Cathy and BJ for picking up all of that ET and not hurting anything! I'm sure it's got a lot left in it too. The car looks phenomenal with the new paint and detailing.

35

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: cockpit necessities

« on: September 01, 2017, 02:10:27 PM »

I agree with your simple cockpit philosophy. My car has a fire extinguisher push/pull mounted on the left side top rail. A fuel shut off, mag kill and shifter mounted on the top of the rear end housing. An air shift button, air chute button and radio button on the steering wheel. There is a right side hand brake with the trans brake button on top of the hand brake. Chute lever on the right side top rail. There's an oil pressure gauge mounted on the back of the motor and a temporary shift light.

36

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Tuning Help

« on: August 15, 2017, 03:55:51 PM »

Ken Veney told me the story about his old Ford Cleveland powered Top Alcohol Dragster. He ran it with all hat nozzels but it always had one relatively lean cylinder that limited the tune up. He decided to run one fuel line to the port on the lean cylinder and went testing. It looked weird but it worked like xxxx. The car went undefeated for a whole season. I believe he ended up running seven other port nozzels that were blanks to keep everyone guessing.

37

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Opinions

« on: July 16, 2017, 05:34:51 AM »

 A couple more thoughts...your front motor plate looks beautiful but it is much, much larger than it needs to be and connected to the block with many more fasteners as necessary. You really only need to pick up the four water pump holes. You could make the plate much smaller and possibly use some of the exposed tapped holes. Also, I think Jon Hansen already mentioned this but you should move that return poppet that is above your drivers side valve cover. It looks like you'll have a difficult time removing the cover. Depending on how your pump ends up being mounted , make sure you have the pump rotating in the proper direction. Hope that helps!

38

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Opinions

« on: July 15, 2017, 09:51:13 AM »

I don't think that it will work very well where you have it mounted ! You could use the normal drive off of the cam like Ricardo's picture or if you want to run it off of a belt you can mount it low and modify your existing bracket . Ron's Fuel injection makes a bracket to mount your pump . Here are a couple of pictures of mine . i hope this helps you out .

  We had some sprinters run a belt drive OP and mount the fuel pump to the back of it, that way if the belt broke/tossed the engine would shutoff instead of kept running without oil pressure

My opinion is that you need to move the pump. Attached is a picture of mine mounted like what Bruce describes above. My motor will actually fire up like a street motor (no primer) with this configuration.

39

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Looking for old magazine article??

« on: July 06, 2017, 11:09:08 AM »

It was Car Craft, March 1967..."So you want to build a dragster?". Let me know if you can't find it

40

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Engine is stiff, hard to turn over???

« on: June 21, 2017, 02:54:38 PM »

Do yourself a favor and go through the whole motor and check EVERYTHING! Breaking a crank is about as bad as it gets. Check the main webs in the block for cracks and check the main line too. Good luck

41

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Oil Filters

« on: June 14, 2017, 04:44:09 PM »

Also...Peterson Fluid Systems makes some nice in-line filters

42

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: 4 7 and 4 7 2 3 swap cams

« on: June 13, 2017, 04:26:07 PM »

The 4-7,2-3 switch (18726543) firing order is actually the same as the small block Fords if you look at the way Ford assigns their cylinder numbers.

From Dave Reher..."The order that we call the "4-7 switch" (1-8-7-3-6-5-4-2) has produced 5-8 more horsepower in our pro stock engines and was a well kept secret by racing teams for years."

43

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: looking for a machinist

« on: May 28, 2017, 11:25:02 AM »

Hang in there. I think that most shops try to prioritize the racers that have already been out there.  You will find that once you are out there running then your stuff will get priority too.

44

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: Run Chart Analysis

« on: May 25, 2017, 08:05:15 AM »

Yes, I would say bumps in the track too. When the rear of the car moves up and down going over the bumps, the drive shaft rpm changes as the rolling radius of the tire changes. The engine rpm does not "spike" because the tires are not leaving the ground. Some of that resolution will depend on your data rate too. Is that Maple Grove?

45

Drag Racing / Re: Congratulations

« on: May 23, 2017, 02:04:44 PM »

Nice job! Looking forward to seeing your car sometime this season. Congratulations