Messages

16

Roo Man's Room / Re: Wheelie Bars

« on: September 09, 2019, 08:18:49 AM »

Generally .058"  PM me your e mail address (or cell #) and I will send you some photos. The files are too big to post here.

Roo

17

Roo Man's Room / Re: Wheelie Bars

« on: September 09, 2019, 04:21:16 AM »

For the wheel end I use a package that I get from McKinney which has the same components as used on a lot of the big show fuel cars. It has a tool less quick adjustment deal. On my bars I use 1.25" uppers and 1"-1.125" lower tubes with a quick pin to allow the wheel to be raised quickly for towing. I tie the upper bars together with a cross tube which is welded to sleeves retained with stop rings--that way there are no welds (other than the tacks on the stop rings) apart from those on each end of the main tubes. At the attachment points to the frame I use cut down bolts with a clevis pin rather than nuts so that the bar can be removed without tools at the end of the day.

18

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Fed build design ?

« on: September 06, 2019, 03:53:34 AM »

I’m not to big, 5-5 170, what’s the reason for shoulder hoop width?

So that you will be comfortable in the car. I know that some older cars are as narrow as 18" but they were usually direct drive and now you need to have enough room to shift etc. My standard chassis is 20" inside the hoop as  most of my customers wear a -15 firesuit. Also it is a good idea to use a double bend shoulder hoop (straight section in the middle) as that avoids having your shoulders pushed forward which happens with the big radius single bend hoop.

Roo

19

Wanted to buy / Re: In search of gen 2 hemi blower manifold for a 671 blower.

« on: August 14, 2019, 04:42:00 PM »

I sent you four photos yesterday

Roo

20

Wanted to buy / Re: In search of gen 2 hemi blower manifold for a 671 blower.

« on: August 11, 2019, 02:23:21 PM »

I just got the box down from the top of my office and it does have the original pop off valve which is probably the reason that I bought it as I had planned on using it on a restoration project and did not want a burst panel. PM me your cell phone number and I will send you the photos that I just took.

Roo

21

Wanted to buy / Re: In search of gen 2 hemi blower manifold for a 671 blower.

« on: August 08, 2019, 01:50:48 PM »

I finally tracked it down and I do have $550 in it. Let me dig it out and send you some photos--I have not opened the box in at least 5 years.

Roo

22

Wanted to buy / Re: In search of gen 2 hemi blower manifold for a 671 blower.

« on: August 06, 2019, 09:11:11 AM »

I think that I have $550 in it but let me check

Roo

23

Wanted to buy / Re: In search of gen 2 hemi blower manifold for a 671 blower.

« on: August 05, 2019, 04:40:06 AM »

I have one that I purchased for a project that will not happen

Roo

24

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: negatives of FED as bracket car?

« on: July 13, 2019, 05:58:53 AM »

Negatives to overcome as bracket car, TO WIN?

Front tires don't like leaving the stage beams consistently pass to pass.
Dose not turn well.
Likes to bottom out & sages over time.
Can't see center of track.

#1 If the car does not leave consistently there is something wrong with your chassis/set up

#2 If it does not turn well there is something wrong with the way the steering is set up (this also applies to Scott's car--the amount of stagger should not affect how the car turns although poor ackerman geometry is often a contributing factor)

#3 If it bottoms out and sags over time you have a chassis design problem

#4 Are you talking the overall track centerline or your own lane? If you can't see the track centerline, once again it is a problem with the design of the car. As for the centerline of your own lane, straight ahead visibility is highly overrated--as long as the wall and the track centerline stay the same distance from the car you are going down the middle of the lane.

The above comments are based on 50 years of building front motor cars, lots of time as a crew chief on a  7.0 car  and some seat time in a couple of front motor top fuel cars. In the NDRL 7.0 category it usually takes a 7.00 something to be at the top of the qualifying list and the dragsters are right in the mix and can repeat.

Roo

25

Roo Man's Room / Re: Coupler Cover Design Ideas - Shorty Glide/Olds Rear

« on: July 01, 2019, 03:31:57 PM »

Out of the shop today and just saw this. Mounting to the back of the trans is perfectly acceptable as noted in the earlier posts.

Roo

26

Roo Man's Room / Re: Help....Input on cage modifications

« on: May 20, 2019, 05:56:12 AM »

I agree with the previous replies. If you shoulders are hitting the cage they are too far above the shoulder hoop for safety. The shifter and steering issues may not be too hard to solve depending on the configuration but making the cage taller will not get your shoulders away from the bars.

Roo

27

Roo Man's Room / Re: Steering ratio.

« on: April 03, 2019, 03:49:26 AM »

If you want to go to the trouble of extending the sector shaft the box out of a Standard 8/10/ Cadet is an excellent option to the purpose built race boxes. The Austin A30/35 box will also work but the integral steering column is a bit of a hassle compared with the splined output on the Standard box.

Roo

28

Roo Man's Room / Re: Steering ratio.

« on: April 01, 2019, 01:55:10 PM »

With a Strange or P & S box the normal length for the pitman arm is 5". Are you running a bell crank or steering direct to the spindle?  On my dragsters with a Strange box and steering off the spindle I use a 5" arm there as well. If you do it that way and run a single tie rod between the spindles the length of those arms is not relevant and can be anything that puts the tie rod where you need it for clearance etc.

Roo

29

Roo Man's Room / Re: 5 1/4 ior 5 1/3" aluminum tubing

« on: March 25, 2019, 04:47:16 AM »

By the time you add up the material cost and the machining time it is worth just buying Rob Moore's package. For Vaught's 7.0 car the adapters (rear end and trans), two piece cover and band clamps ran about $600. Cut the tube/s to length, touch up the anodizing with a Sharpie and you are good to go. You may have to call him ( 619 296 9180) though as his web site appears to be messed up.

Roo

30

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Interior pan advice please - 3 piece ok?

« on: March 20, 2019, 08:52:20 AM »

Why not put a proper belly pan on it (from the bottom and for the reasons stated above) and then just enough floor on the top side to rest your feet on?

Roo