FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Technical => Jon's Wheel House => Topic started by: Rat on November 28, 2021, 02:24:30 AM
-
We are about to fit new tyres on the Halibrands 8) we have, obviously we don't want to use bead screws, any suggestions to help limit tyre slip on the rim. Thanks
-
Clean the tire beads and rims with solvent before pressurizing the slick.
At the suggestion of another altered driver I stopped using bead screws years ago. We don't use tubes. Neither of us have ever had problems.Tire pressures in the 5 - 6 psi range.
It might be interesting to mark the tire and rim to give you confidence.
-
Thanks Flyer, I was planning on marking the tyre position. Any particular reason for not using tubes.
-
a ton of weight added with tubes.
-
Thanks Flyer, I was planning on marking the tyre position. Any particular reason for not using tubes.
Yes
Rotational weight has a much greater effect on performance than static weight in the car. A pound of weight on the tire circumference has about the same effect on performance as ten pounds in the chassis (fun fact: on a bicycle with most of the weight at the outer periphery the ratio is about 16:1.)
-
help needed How do you run slicks tubeless, sidewalls leak, on dirt we adjusted tire pressure between heats and tires and only lasted one or two races so side wall leakage was no biggy. On the fed we ran tubes and they were heavy
-
Leakage is an issue. Tire pressure needs to be checked often. I do it every round just before pullout, as do most bracket racers. If you lay a typical slick on its side and wet it down with soapy water and come back an hour later it will be full of suds on the sidewalls. Just the nature of the beast.
-
Also, I block up the axles on my altereds if it will sit for several days.
Also also, in Ford's assembly plants they had a product called "murple" (get it?, it is the only word that rhymes with purple). It was used on hoses and vacuum lines as a lubricant but after installation it dried and acted as an adhesive bonding the rubber to the nipple. I hesitated to mention that initially as I do not know if it is proprietary or available commercially. There may be a similar product on the market.
-
I'm following this thread.
Most of us are bracket racing. I use tubes because every time I opened the trailer door one or both slicks would be soft or flat.
Tubes fixed that but I'm always wanting to get more out of our stuff.
Thanks: Matt
-
When I had a dirt track modified we would "paint" the inside of the tire with sealer. Memory is a bit faded, but I believe it was from Berrymans. I don't recall it being 100% effective, but it sure helped. Should work with slicks. The Hoosier tires we were running were so thin you could see the thread's profile in the sidewall.
Lynn
-
hoosier's were and are what I use ran anti-flat liquide on the dirt tires when I had time never tried it with slicks, alway blocked chassis when towing
-
With Mickey Thompson tires I used dish soap straight out of the bottle and it made a big difference but was not 100%
With Hoosier slicks I have no problem with leakage without tubes.
-
Same with the dish soap. But it only a temporary thing they still leak.
-
I only used dish soap to mount tires that didn't have bead locks
-
I'm following this thread.
Most of us are bracket racing. I use tubes because every time I opened the trailer door one or both slicks would be soft or flat.
Tubes fixed that but I'm always wanting to get more out of our stuff.
Thanks: Matt
x2