Messages

46

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Filter for MFI

« on: April 25, 2018, 08:13:05 PM »

 Maybe it was a -6?

 Spud

47

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Filter for MFI

« on: April 25, 2018, 06:11:18 PM »

 The little cone filters are great. I couldn't believe that they didn't restrict flow so I bought a -8 and tested it on the flow bench. 18 GPM through it transparently with no trouble at all. Forward, backwards, no diff. BUT...they won't hold hardly any debris before they start to restrict. So, just be sure to check it often.

 Spud

48

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Engine heat and nitro

« on: April 25, 2018, 06:07:25 PM »

 At high percentages and volumes, things can get colder instead of hotter at idle so you need to make some heat first. However, at low percentages, you'll just want to change over right away because it'll behave like it's hot methanol. It'll make heat on 20 or 25% just like running properly adjusted on methanol. At an idle, 350-450F is a good temp to shoot for. Going down the track, 1100 to 1200, same as methanol.

 Yes, at low percentages, properly tuned means a bit leaner due to the AFR and specific gravity changing at different rates.

 .005 per step at that size pill (120) is a great place to be. Richen it a step or two, make a pass or two, observe plugs and temps, lean a step, repeat.

 

49

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Warm up alky for nitro

« on: April 25, 2018, 05:56:35 PM »

 I like to use a hydraulic hose connection...kind of a "quick connect" thing. There are several different types and honestly, I don't know all the differences or even what they're called. Check at your hydraulic hose shop.

 Spud

50

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Prefered port check location & pressure

« on: April 25, 2018, 05:52:45 PM »

 Hi Greg!

 Yup, I agree...in the distribution block is the way to go.

 You just want to make sure it's closed at an idle, so typically about 15 PSI is good.

 Spud

51

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: FIE Rev-Limit Relay

« on: January 25, 2018, 01:05:41 PM »

 It sounds like you are proposing activating the relay with 12V from the transbrake switch...if you did that it would just kill the mag and it would be dead until you let off the button.

 When the relay is actuated by the 8950, it oscillates because the RPM is at the trigger point, then it isn't, then it is, etc. Off and on quickly removing random sparks.

 If you want a 2-step (or even a 3-step), you'd need to buy the module and plug it into the 8950 like below...

 Have fun!
 Spud

52

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: FINALLY! A magneto friendly tachometer

« on: January 08, 2018, 08:59:10 AM »

 I checked on the "pod" for these a couple of weeks ago. I was told that the black version will be available to ship to us on January 17th. No date on the chrome version yet. Also no pricing info as of yet.

 Spud

53

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: crank trigger with vertex mag

« on: November 05, 2017, 09:14:01 AM »

 Nope, you can't trigger a points mag with a crank trigger.

 You can use the crank trigger signal for other purposes (tach, RPM switch, rev limiter), but ignition timing isn't one of them.

 Spud

54

Spud Miller's Cave / FINALLY! A magneto friendly tachometer

« on: November 02, 2017, 02:01:05 PM »

 We recently had a magneto customer who could NOT make a tach work on his vehicle. We tried all the tricks, all the adapters, every gadget there is and it would not give him a reliable reading. He visited a trade show recently and came across the STACK CLUBMAN tachometer which is billed to work with all ignition systems INCLUDING magnetos. It works beautifully for him! That got our attention, so we tested these in-house with a variety of mags and conditions. We eagerly became a dealer when we discovered how perfectly this tach works with all magnetos. No one has manufactured a mag friendly tach for almost 10 years.

 This isn't a "bouncy needle" kind of tachometer. The STACK CLUBMAN indicating needle is mounted on the end of a servo motor shaft for superior accuracy and positive movement. What a neat idea to use a servo motor!

 This premium quality tach features a built-in programmable shift-light activation circuit. RED panel mount or dash mount shift-lights are available for it. It is LED back lit instrument and also features a peak RPM tell-tale memory.

 This tach works with all Super-Mags, Sprintmags, Vertex mags and all MSD mags. A racing suppression core spark plug wire of 50 ohms/ft or less is recommended to be used with it. This tach uses no pickups or converters. Just connect its orange wire to the positive primary terminal of your coil or the "hot" side of your grounding kill switch and it's happy. It is configurable for any number of cylinders.

 At this time, the STACK CLUBMAN tach is available only in a panel-mount version that fits a 3-1/4" (80mm) hole. By year's end, we will be able to offer this instrument in a free-standing dash pod version.

 We just added these to our webstore and as a special FEDS.org promotion here, we will offer a discount code for 10% off one during the month of November. One per customer, forum members only! Enter discount code at checkout: TACHINTRO10

  8,000 RPM:
https://fuelinjectionent.myshopify.com/collections/magneto-accessories/products/stack-clubman-tachometer-0-8k

10,000 RPM:
https://fuelinjectionent.myshopify.com/collections/magneto-accessories/products/stack-clubman-tachometer

 Thanks for looking!
 Spud

55

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Enderle fuel pumps

« on: October 04, 2017, 09:07:12 AM »

 Hi Steve,

 I've not tested the new Enderle spur gear against the old style (called a "tuthill") Enderle...only a Waterman spur gear against a conventional Enderle for a customer a while back. Should be pretty much the same thing however.

In the tests of A/Fuel legal pumps of both types, the Enderle made more flow down low. Overlaying the results, the engine got more fuel down for the first part of the track, they were the same at 8000 RPM (where they are rated) and then the gear pump stayed straight and level while the conventional pump rounded off and flattened out a bit on flow as pressure increased beyond 100 PSI.

I don't think you'll have to worry too much about the differences in a methanol situation. In a nitro deal, having more fuel at the bottom could be an advantage when under rules like A/Fuel is. And that's exactly why the customer sent the two pumps!

The spur gear pumps have support (bearings) on both sides of the gear while the conventional only on one side. That's why conventional tuthill style pumps can't take pressures over 150 PSI or so for sustained periods. The spur gears pumps have no problem with 300+ PSI. Pressure isn't everything however.

Pressure achieved is always a function of fuel volume provided for a given set of nozzles, so if pump output were the same at a given point, then you'd see no difference in fuel delivery between the pumps.

As far as suction and picking up, I honestly think the conventional style might be better at that but I have not tested that. Just a hunch.

 Spud

56

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Hilborn stack idle problems

« on: September 29, 2017, 09:23:52 AM »

 Yes, more timing! A naturally aspirated SBC is generally a slug with less than 36.

 38 or 40 is the typical "happy place".

 Spud

57

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: enderle spools

« on: September 27, 2017, 08:22:40 AM »

 At wide open throttle, there is no performance diff as they completely move out of the way and are irrelevant to flow. 

 They have different slots in them for idle and idle transition is all. Having the wrong spool can make it more difficult to get the idle adjusted properly.

 Spud

58

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Hilborn stack idle problems

« on: September 27, 2017, 06:19:39 AM »

 For methanol, I always use 7% of the engine size for an initial leakdown number. That's assuming a 1-2 PSI main check valve.

 So, for you:  420 x .07 = 29

 29% should be really close...within a flat or three...tweak from there for idle EGT of 350-450F and good throttle response when you whack it from an idle.

 Do you have any idle temperature information? Hand-held temp gun shooting the pipes?

 Spud

59

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: A little nitro results

« on: September 27, 2017, 06:13:21 AM »

 Great job!

60

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: Nitro Respirator

« on: September 14, 2017, 07:06:18 AM »

 I buy the 3M rubber face mask respirators from the local welding shop. They have replaceable filters that we change every season and we keep them in zip lock bags when not in use to help them last.

 A couple of my guys need the full face mask type because their eyes practically fall out of their heads from the fumes. The fumes don't bother my eyes, so I only use the type that goes over my nose and mouth.

 Spud