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Messages - lake_harley

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241
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: January 10, 2020, 02:30:10 PM »
Fab a fixture to hold housing square on your table with axle center about 15" above ground level.Then slide the block to the desired location and set the engine angle. Basically, you build the rest of the car around this arrangement.


Thanks. I've found, read and learned from photos of several FED builds and plan to do exactly as you describe with an alignment bar through the engine and into the third member. I plan to build a jig rigid enough to move around in my shop without it twisting, bending and sagging. I've seen jigs with just a single beam and arms coming off to locate items and tubes, but I'm leaning toward a double square tube jig just slightly narrower than my chassis, with crossmembers tack welded and/or clamped into place to locate and support things.

Also.....RAT   I appreciate your reply and input. I'll take all of the info and suggestions I can. I realize some of the opinions might conflict, but I'll try to make good decisions based on everyone's input.

Lynn

242
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: January 09, 2020, 07:39:20 PM »
In my calculations on axle centerline to back of engine dimension of 39-40", I added 3" of gap for the coupler length between the transmission output and roughly the front of the pinion threads. Is that about correct for a short coupler?

Lynn

243
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: January 09, 2020, 02:41:53 PM »
Thanks for the post. With a long-shaft Powerglide I have and would plan to run, a 9" Ford would put the back of the engine about 39" to 40" forward of the axle centerline. I will add that I'm only expecting 275-300 HP with a mild 350 or 327 carbureted SBC (I already have both running, complete engines). Would you consider the 39-40" too close? I'll also mention that my desire is a pretty short (125-140" wheelbase) car that would be reminiscent of lower class & HP dragsters of the late 60's and early 70's. Trying to relive my youth, I guess.

Lynn

244
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: January 09, 2020, 11:08:15 AM »
A question has been running through my mind for a few days now, since I've been considering engine placement. I'm still open to either a 9" ford or 8 3/4" Mopar rearend and wondered if there's any significant difference in the pinion length between the two? Specifically, I'm wondering the difference in distance from the axle centerline to the forward end of the pinion for the two rearend designs. I'd like to keep everything as "close coupled" as possible and even an inch or two difference might sway my choice. I have a 9" here to measure but does anyone have a 8 3/4 Mopar to measure axle centerline to front of pinion threads distance?

Thanks, in advance.

Lynn

245
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: January 03, 2020, 12:50:15 PM »
I received the S&W FED plans today. I am really pleased with the detail that the drawings cover! There are 4 or 5 24" X 34" sheets that cover overall layout with multiple views, as well as cross-sectional views at various "stations" on the chassis. In addition to the large sheets the plans included a material list and additional 8 1/2" X 11" sheets that detail key tubing sections which indicate lengths between bends and bend angles for tubes such as the shoulder hoop, lower rear tube, etc..

Studying the plans will keep me entertained and occupied for some time. I find that studying the plans for something like this (I built an airplane from plans) helps me to get a good mental picture of how things will go together and that eventually makes building easier.

Lynn

246
Wanted to sell / Re: Fiberglass "Stretch" '33 Willys
« on: January 02, 2020, 09:38:25 AM »
With any luck at all I hope to have figured out photo posting. Let's see if I did.

Lynn


247
Wanted to sell / Fiberglass "Stretch" '33 Willys
« on: December 31, 2019, 01:30:25 PM »
Dennis Taylor body and frame. Suspension all new, including 9" Moser rearend and axles, QA-1 coilovers, Mustang II front suspension and triangulated 4-bar rear suspension. Frame still has regular 4-bar mounts if that would be your preference. Hoosier QuickTime tires on rear with ProStar wheels on all 4 corners. Blank canvas waiting to be made into a drag car or hot rod. Location is Southeast Missouri. Call with questions. I had difficulty loading photos so e-mail for photos. Price $10,900

Lynn Winter
(573) 788-2574
winter62@att.net

248
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: December 31, 2019, 08:22:51 AM »
I've done some searches for FED plans/blueprints and have found S&W, Mark Williams, and Neil&Parks. I also saw plans on Facebook and I believe e-bay but I'm apprehensive if they are properly designed to certify under SFI 2.6.

All of the plans are based on ~200" wheelbase which is a lot longer than I want. I've talked with someone at Mark Williams and S&W to pose the question about shortening the wheelbase. Both agreed that the plans can indeed be modified as I have in mind but it would stiffen the chassis (as I expected) but didn't see that as a problem for my intended purpose.

S&W plans consist of multiple sheets and it sounds like they go into more construction detail than the Mark Williams plans so I went ahead and ordered the S&W plans.

I'm really getting stoked about this project and hope the new year brings buyers for the project cars I have for sale so I can get started building!

 
Lynn

249
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: December 30, 2019, 06:34:30 AM »
I made a call yesterday to a friend of mine who builds dirt circle track modifieds and has a Mittler Bros. bender. It's the type that has a shoe to support the tube on the outer radius of the bend as it's drawn around the die. So, I believe I have tube bending covered.

Now, if my projects would just sell! I have a "barn find" '48 Ford coupe that I've lost interest in. The other is a fiberglass '33 Willys. The Willys is a "stretch" version by Dennis Taylor. I bought it as a body and bare chassis. It now has a Moser 9" and triangulated 4-link and Mustang II front suspension under it, so it's in bare "roller" state. It's a blank canvas now and could either go the direction of street rod or drag race. My phone number and e-mail are below if someone is interested. I do have photos that I could send via text or e-mail. Location is Southeast Missouri.

Lynn Winter
(573) 788-2574
winter62@att.net 

250
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: December 28, 2019, 06:16:25 PM »
OK....I concede (as I hang my head in shame), 4130 is the best way to go for numerous reasons and I should quit trying to take shortcuts or pinching pennies. I do wonder about my bender and dies being up to doing a nice job on .058" 4130. I have to pull out my bender and check, but I believe the 1.5" die I have is for 5.5" centerline radius bends. I don't know if it is too tight (no inside mandrel) to bend without kinks or ripples. I guess the only way I'll know is to get some tube and try it out.

The bender I have is a JD2, and if I recall from conversation with dreracecar on another website (the HAMB) that it isn't exactly the preferred bender to use anyway. I guess I'll just have to get some 4130 of a couple sizes and do some test bends to answer that uncertainty for myself. I do recall from previous use that my 1 3/4", 6.5" centerline radius die created an unacceptable, rippled inside radius on 16 Ga. HREW tube. I don't recall ever bending anything under .083" with the 1.5" die, but I fear the tighter radius on it will have the same problem when bending 4130. 

I know I keep saying it, but I do appreciate the suggestions and advice from everyone.

Lynn

251
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: December 28, 2019, 07:15:53 AM »
Thanks again for the additional input and suggestions. I can understand that 4130 construction is preferred for many reasons, including the convenient telescoping tube ability. I haven't decided to go 4130 or DOM just yet, but if building with .120" wall DOM, can transitions from one diameter tubing to another (1 1/2" to 1 3/8" for instance) be done with a butt joint and a stepped sleeve that has at least .120" wall at the smallest end? That sleeve would end up being 1 1/4" at the big end and 1 1/8 at the small end OD, with a 7/8" ID all the way through. I do intend to order the SFI book and that will likely clear up many/most of my questions, but for now I'm just considering options.

Thanks.

Lynn

252
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: December 26, 2019, 04:22:06 PM »
Thanks again to everyone for input and suggestions. There are obviously differing opinions like front suspension/no front suspension, 9" Ford/8 3/4" Chrysler, DOM/4130. I'm looking forward to getting started and hope the project cars I have that need to sell first find new owners soon. I'm taking all the suggestions seriously and hope that I make some wise choices as I develop a build plan.

I did call the main steel supplier I used for my fabrication business today and got quotes on 3 of the sizes of tube I would need. Based on a rough estimate on the footage I would need of different sizes, it appears DOM would run about $150 to $200 less than 4130. I can pick up 4130 from Wicks Aircraft who is only about 1 1/2 Hr. from where I live. Not really a huge price difference.

Thanks.
 
Lynn

253
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: December 24, 2019, 07:14:24 PM »
Here’s an excellent online racing calculator which helps decision making.  For tire diameter answer, you input proposed rear gear ratio, anticipated engine rpm and mph at stripe.  This calculator is user friendly and lightning fast with answers.

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

I had a 1970s dragster with an 8-3/4 Mopar (489) rear with Mark Williams axles and spool and had no issues with it.  It would work fine for your project.

That calculator website is interesting. It might keep me entertained for days.  :D  I just hope it doesn't get my hopes up too much since my "theoretical" FED calculates as being quicker than I might hope.

Lynn

254
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: December 24, 2019, 12:32:54 PM »
4" ground clearance....check. Please don't let that be your last recommendation though. ;)

Lynn

255
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Potential FED Build
« on: December 24, 2019, 09:40:20 AM »
Frenchtown Flyer.....thanks for the recommendations. They all seem like sound ideas and good reason behind them. One exception I might make and that is a friend might have a 8 3/4" rearend for cheap, or even free. Says he has some taller gears too, maybe even something 5.00+ that would likely work out OK on the 1/8 Mi.. Free or cheap might be hard to pass up. If that falls through though, I'd definitely plan on a 9" Ford.

denverflatheader....Another good suggestion. I will definitely have wheels and tires that I want to use to properly space everything before narrowing a rearend housing and to determine chassis ride height.

Given the ~300-ish HP I expect to run, what size tire would be at least a good starting point? Something along the line of a 29-9 X 15 Hoosier on a 8" (or maybe 10") wheel even close to being able to hook up without dragging along a tire that's larger than needed for the HP?

Lynn

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