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Topics - lake_harley

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Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Good Powerglide Build Book?
« on: October 22, 2021, 07:58:39 PM »
I plan to rebuild and modify a Powerglide for the FED I have been collecting parts for and am about to start building. I have 2 core Powerglides and with the 12 7/8" input shaft they have that tells me they are both the preferred 1.76 ratio units. The HP of the engine will be under 300 HP (just a fun FED for local bracket racing) and I don't plan a trans brake thinking that foot-braking the car will be less stressful (less shock) for the driveline parts.

With that said, I'd be interested in a recommendation of a good book on rebuilding a Powerglide in general, that would also offer suggestions on modifications needed to live at various HP levels.



Front Engine Dragsters / FED Build
« on: September 11, 2021, 01:52:01 PM »
I had started a thread titled "Potential FED Build" but on my computer none of the posts past page 6 show up. I have no idea of what happened to them, but I decided to start a new thread now that I have been gathering parts and getting close to starting construction. Below is the most recent post I tried to put on my previous thread, so if you see it duplicated that's the reason. I'll make future posts to this thread since I now consider that I'm actually moving past the "potential" and thinking phase and am about to begin actual construction with what I have accumulated. So......the story continues.....

I got a piece of 1 1/2" X .058 to try a test bend with my JD Squared manual bender. I have a 5.5" centerline radius die for the 1 1/2". Short story, it failed miserably! So, I called a friend who builds circle track cars and is about 1 1/2 Hr. away. He has a Mittler Brothers bender that uses a long radiused "shoe" that follows along with the tube as the die pulls the tubing around the die to bend. It was a bit bigger centerline radius than I would have preferred (7"), but the bend was beautiful! As I counted, there are only going to be 9 bends necessary to follow the S&W FED plans I have, so I went from feeling I would either need to find or buy a chassis that suits me, to being happy that I have the resources to do what I wanted to do all along, and that is to build ground-up. I continue to stockpile a few parts and pieces here and there, so as soon as I get my current project (hot rod Model A Coupe) on the road I'll be in FED mode.


Drag Racing / Glory Days - Byron IL - July 16-18,2021
« on: July 05, 2021, 08:18:25 PM »
Anyone on the forum taking a car to the Glory Days Nostalgia Drags next weekend July 16-18, 2021? I'm not affiliated in any way, and just found out about it. I hope to be there Friday or Saturday. It's about 6 Hr. from home but sounds like a great time. Included is a car show and swap meet. Hope to find a couple parts to add to the collection I've been gathering for a future FED build.


Wanted to buy / Miscellaneous Parts Wanted
« on: May 29, 2021, 03:46:42 PM »
PLEASE scroll down to the last post made as I will will likely be adding things to my wanted list. That is why I listed as looking for Miscellaneous Parts.


Currently, I'm looking for a pair of 15 X 8" or 8.5" aluminum wheels with 4.5" Ford/Mopar bolt pattern. Either aluminum slots or 5-spokes like Torq-Thrust wheels is what I'd like to find.

Lynn Winter
(573) 286-3335 Cell

Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Powerglide or 3-speed?
« on: May 03, 2021, 06:49:04 AM »
I'm gathering information and parts to build a mild, low HP FED for bracket racing....well actually more for the fun of the whole process. I had always expected I'd use a Powerglide but recently became aware of the TH200 (non-lockup and non-overdrive) that is the size and weight of a Powerglide, supposed to rotate more freely than a PG, and in a light car, according to what I've found, it is capable of handling the expected 240-ish HP of the carbureted 283 Chevy I'll be using.

Regarding transmission selection I have several questions on what transmission would better serve a light FED with low HP? It seems the addition of the 3rd gear would be a distinct advantage to keep the engine in the power range a bit better and also offer a taller (higher numerically) low gear to get off the line. One opinion I've read though adding to my confusion is that the 1.86 or 1.76 low gear Powerglide would come off the line a bit softer with less wheel spin because of the numerically lower gear, compared to the TH200's 2.54 low gear. Also in consideration is that right now I have an opportunity to pick up a reasonably priced TH200 as a core, but also thinking because of the popularity of the Powerglide for so long, more performance oriented parts are likely available at reasonable cost. Keep in mind I'm looking at a very mild 240 HP carbureted 283 Chevy, not some 600+ HP engine. I'd like to get a transmission picked soon because it would be key to laying out the engine, transmission and rearend with an alignment bar to get started on construction.

Needless to say for bracket racing consistency is what I'd be seeking and wonder how that might play into the 2-speed vs 3-speed transmission selection. Also, FWIW, for rear tires I'm thinking a 29/9.00 - 15 tire might be about right for the car and I'm estimating weight at about 1400#.

Thanks, in advance for any guidance!


Dan Dishon's Transmission Den / Shorty Powerglide Conversion
« on: January 23, 2020, 08:05:25 PM »
Is there anyone who offers a service to shorten and re-spline a stock Powerglide output shaft to build a shorty PG? I thought maybe some of the companies like Moser or Dutchman who re-spline axles might do it, but it isn't mentioned on their websites. I realize shorty planetary/output shafts can be bought aftermarket but the application would be a low HP car (under 300 HP) and I'd like to be as economical as practical without building a grenade. I already have two Powerglide "core" transmissions.



Wanted to sell / Fiberglass "Stretch" '33 Willys
« on: December 31, 2019, 01:30:25 PM »
Dennis Taylor body and frame. Suspension all new, including 9" Moser rearend and axles, QA-1 coilovers, Mustang II front suspension and triangulated 4-bar rear suspension. Frame still has regular 4-bar mounts if that would be your preference. Hoosier QuickTime tires on rear with ProStar wheels on all 4 corners. Blank canvas waiting to be made into a drag car or hot rod. Location is Southeast Missouri. Call with questions. I had difficulty loading photos so e-mail for photos. Price $10,900

Lynn Winter
(573) 788-2574

Front Engine Dragsters / Potential FED Build
« on: December 23, 2019, 03:57:52 PM »
My first post here on the FED forum will serve 2 purposes.....

First, a brief intro. I'm 67 years young and have been around cars and motorcycles most of my adult life. I did a little bit of drag racing when I was in my late teens, got more interested in hot rods and a few British sports cars, eventually came back to dirt circle track racing with a street stock and a UMP modified, and have recently been smitten with hot rods again; specifically a T roadster and a '31 Model A coupe. But....there's been a hankering in the back of my mind for a FED ever since I bought my first Hot Rod magazine at age 12 in 1964 that had a very in-depth article on Don Gartlit's dragster. All of that brings me to today....considering ground-up building a mild (short by today's standards) FED for bracket racing at a local 1/8th mile track.

So, with that, the second part is asking some questions that I have in my mind going into a possible build.

I'm currently thinking a car with a 125" to 132" wheelbase to mimic the look of what a lower class dragster would have been when I was in my teens in the 60's and into the early 70's. I currently have a mild 350 SBC as well as a mild 327 SBC in my shop. Either might be in the 275-300 HP range on a dyno....I'd hope. I also have two Powerglides, one from a running, driving car that was being resto-modded, and another as a core.

I'm torn between building with chrome moly tubing vs DOM. I'm a competent fabricator and welder, having had a steel fabrication business for about 15 years prior to "mostly" retiring. I know a chrome moly car will be about 50 to 60# lighter, but there's a trade off on cost (slight, really) and having to TIG everything. I do TIG weld, and pretty nicely if I say so myself.

Budget would be a consideration, not that I couldn't spend a fair amount on the car, but realistically it will probably only be raced 6-8 times a year at the local 1/8th mile track at Sikeston MO.

I've seen some discussion about solid mounted front axles vs torsion suspended front ends and wondered if it would be a HUGE mistake to keep the front end simple and just go solid?

I'd likely go with a 9" Ford, that I could narrow the housing and have axles re-splined, or I already have a couple 8" Fords that would likely be plenty strong for a 300 HP, light car. With the 8" Ford rearend, I'd have to buy short aftermarket axles, likely from Moser. Some reading I've done has talked about setting up a "tight" rearend by shimming the spiders really tight rather than using a posi or running a spool. Is that a viable option?

I'm also wondering about smaller things, one example for now.....foot brake the car or run a trans brake? Current thinking is foot brake would just keep the car a bit simpler.

I would likely buy the appropriate SFI construction guildlines that apply to FED's, and although my car wouldn't likely be fast enough (thinking maybe low to mid 7's in the 1/8 Mi.) to need to be certified I might choose to build per guidelines to make the car: A) safe, and B) more re-sellable someday after I've had some fun.

Quite honestly, I don't have strong desire to even drive the car, but always have taken pleasure from the build itself, and would enjoy just seeing the car compete. Heck, I built an airplane that a friend test-piloted a couple times but I've never flown it, and I'm happy enough that I reached my goal of building an airplane. ;D

So, I'll wrap it up at that for now. I'd appreciate input and opinions about some of the questions I have currently. I'm sure there will be more.

I appreciate being approved for the forum and look forward to being an active part of it.


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