Messages

1

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Newbie in need....

« on: January 15, 2018, 04:15:55 AM »

you are going to have fun here AND we are willing to help you spend that $$$. --no need to thank anyone. just sayin.
as for me, I have (built) a 150" Ex Jim Davis FED I got only a few usable pieces so I had to do a 98% rebuild) I am to old (and broke) to compete at 76- but I really enjoy taking it to the cackle fests. it has a 1957 Chrysler @ 398 CID on 85% nitro and it seems to love it.  I will point out I bought a lot of used parts  in this build and had to throw them away- it was cheaper in the end to buy all new, from nitro stripped blower to rods and pistons. even though it is "only" a cacklecar I built the the engine as I would to race. I believe when running a nitro engine  the best parts are just good enough.  cacklefests are also a lot less stress AND we can enjoy liquid libations while at it-a win win.
I should point out you are just a kid when in your 50's so that "to old to drive" won't fly here.  a big welcome from bitter cold Missouri.  Geri

2

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: What did you do on your Front Engine Dragster TODAY?

« on: November 21, 2017, 11:00:45 AM »

OK- it's a bit late BUT I have run it a few times at shows here in BF Missouri it has been good to me and likes the 85%  (I don't get around much anymore)

3

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Debut "Elijha's Chariot" FED

« on: March 19, 2016, 11:02:40 AM »

excellent- your living the dream. my car is just a cacklecar  butstill brings lot of pleasure,I'd rather be making a pass though.   

4

Roo Man's Room / Re: Steering turns issue

« on: January 28, 2014, 02:34:57 PM »

I have P&S  steering as well, before I attached the pitman arm I rotated the steering full left to full right ,found the center and marked the steering box and shaft  next to the same spot so I know when the box is centered.
 the pitman arm cannot be straight down unless the steering box is horizontal with the ground-this means I had to have the pitman arm somewhat angled to the rear of the car so the steering box was centered as the wheels were at dead straight ahead, this allows me equal turning raduius left and right, but it's also only a 150" car.
 another issue I dont see many address is the angle of the steering arms off the front spindles.
 the proper  angle should be- draw a straight line through the center of the king pin to the center of the rear end, that string line will show you where the steering arm should attach to the tie rod.
 this ensures  the inside wheel will always turn the proper radius of a shorter turn than the outside wheel. dragsters dont turn? ever see a car a bit loose, turn to correct  and peel the front tires off? ever wonder why?

5

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Basement Find Today

« on: January 28, 2014, 02:19:46 PM »

I know Worm and he  builds a very nice chassis although I'm a bit lost on the torsion bar mount, I don't know whats going on with the cuff,  if it's a FED how can you go wrong?

6

Spud Miller's Cave / Re: How to ground your magneto with a standard two post master switch.

« on: January 28, 2014, 02:13:32 PM »

let me add a little to this, I have two mag switches on my car-  (blown fuel) one for the driver and one mounted in front of the engine next to the fuel shutoff, in case I need to shut it down I can turn off the mag from either location.   as long as both switches are open, the magneto will run, with either mag switchs grounded it will shut off the engine. this for me is a safety issue. the switch only requires one wire to the mag the other to chassis ground. a normally on toggle switch  will kill the magneto as it completes the circuit to ground. that only means what appears to be off is actually run position for a toggle switch.
I have never bought the notion that shutting off an engine with the mag switch will blow up the engine or lift the blower- you cannot take the flame source away from the potential and cause a flame. others are free to believe what they may,I have used the mag switch to shut down the engine for as long as I  can remember (after first turning off the fuel)

7

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Introduction for Geri (New Member) Please give HER a warm welcome

« on: January 28, 2014, 01:59:58 PM »

my apologies to the forum and questions  I don't get here as often as I'd like
 mostly becasue I forgot my username and password.
 the wheels- the rear wheels were from a supplier who made them in several sizes with these being the closest to 1:6 scale and sadly for the last 2-3 years I have not found any. they are just under 5" diameter and they were found on ebay hobbies and models. I want to cast some correct size tires but don't know how to make a mold or what product to use in making them.

 the front spokes are a little to big but-- theyare from topflite for flying models- when available they sell for $32.00 a pair.
there are other model aircraft sites selling whhels but they cost almost $350.00 a pair.

8

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Introduction for Geri (New Member) Please give HER a warm welcome

« on: October 26, 2013, 12:47:27 PM »

member's of FED.
 excuse my lack of corresponding as I have a tough time negotiating these sites- I have a tough time negotiating my home...
thank you all for the greetings  and it's an honor to be among you all.
a little bit about CHRR2013- its a 1679 mile drive from my driveway to gate 1 Famoso, Bakersfield ,a 3 day drive for this 72 year old but if able I'll do it again next year.
I run the car on 85%, not 95- a typo- to clear that up. however with a 30% overdrive on the blower it seems to thrive ,so I'll leave it alone. I like the look of the Hilborn 4 holer but am comfortable with the Enderle K valve which I adapted to the hilborn- I was told it cant be done- blah blah blah- so I had to do it.
Ive been involved in fuel car's for many years ,its  the air I breath since 1960.
 I'm glad to have grown up in that era of drag racing.
Geri