FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Social => Your Builds / Photo Gallery => Topic started by: Dolmetsch on May 29, 2013, 10:40:53 AM
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As I iluded to in the gasser thread I have started into a build of a VW bug as a early coupe style gasser.
Why? Well, I was given the body shell free and it was delivered here. I was given the metal 2x3 X.180" wall rectangular tubing. Tisnt pretty as it was used as HD industrial shelving for years but aside from the ugly which is totally superficial it is good sound tubing. Despite being heavy wall the frame is not all that heavy. I weighed a 5 inch section at 710gr. I have 244 inches in the basic frame. It is easy to work with and strong. And FREE! I can spend an hour or so with a flap wheel cleaning the old ugly paint from it at that price.
I finished the basic frame this morning. It will be a ladder bar suspension (30 inch) with coil springs and seperate shock. Nothing fancy. Front axle will be fabbed in house (again) and will use 1/4 eliphtic front springs which I have come to really like. (My short rail uses a single 1/4 and my Jeep altered used a pair. My Poly Dragster project also has a pair of 1/4s up front) Rear will be probably a Jeep as they come with usable gears and will not require narrowing. Also would have no trouble standing up to the slant six power. Later this week I will notch the rear floor for the frame step up. The roll cage will tie the rest together nicely. I plan to sit approx in the stock location.
I have a spare slant six which was also a gift. I have one of my old heads with big valves and porting and springs as well as three special cams I have run in the rail . I have three intakes plus a stocker. Soon I will also have a spare set of headers . I have a spare trans core and a couple of converters although just fun ones not real serious ones. Still should it all come together I am not too proud to just pop something together for a fun run till I get a serious mill done.
Anyway I worked on it a bit each day. The frame is about 4.5 hours work so far. I am using the car as something to work on when I need a break from my intake header work. There is no particular schedule.
Don
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How many builds do you have going on?
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two.
I have a FED about 1/2 done. 120" wheelbase with a 318 Poly engine inspired by Tim McMasters 312 Ford dragster. I had no intention of doing another but the guy gave me the bug and a friend Mike S (Rooman's "twin"(41 Willys gasser) gave me the metal. My Mom always told me "never look a gift horse in the mouth " so I didnt refuse. Really I need to get it to at least push around mode as it is sitting on my shop floor now which is not convenient. However everytime I walk by it whispers in the old tongue to me "DAS AUTO". Since the welder was still warm from the trailer build I thought I would burn up the welding rods I had left at least and get the metal Mike offered while that door was still open. Today is my birthday and my wife gave me a handful of cash and a gift card from a store I buy a lot of my stuff from so I am good to go for another leg of the project.
Meanwhile I am always working on my little blue rail since I have never had a more fun and less stressful car in my life. Hence the tunnel ram project which is just a distraction when I need a break.
Oh also making another fiddle, an 811 HF amplifier (VE3LYX Ham radio) Good thing I am retired.. I dont have time for work!
Don
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Today I made the ladder bars. Cost $19.91. But remember that cash I got on my birthday for my projects?
Used a bit of it so out of pocket to me still $0. Went and measured a Jeep YJ rear end. Too wide. Got to come up with something else. Anyway here are the new ladder bars.
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Body is on the frame. Notched what is left of the rear floor pan (luggage compartment). Frame sets in place nicely with room for ladder bars. Still no spindles but they will come. Also looking for a rear end that will work as is . Not a big demand because a slant six is not a blown Hemi so a good reliable diff of about 50 inch track will work . Gear should be 4:10 I think. Thinking 70s Jeep CJ should do. Parts avaiable. Right width. Not too heavy and a good reputation as well as a good slection of gears. Driveshaft will be about 22 inches long it appears if I dont shorten the trans tailshaft and tailstock. I will be sitting back a bit. But just a few inches, so it should work good. Next week I will fasten the body to the frame (bolt on) and then probably pop the engine and trans in for a fit and mounts.
I realize not everyone s into a for fun budget build but I enjoy it as long as reliablilty and performance doesnt suffer.
Would like to run typical times for the 60s. Not personally into modern power in old style race cars. Like them they way they were. Just the way I am I guess.
Don
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Located and fastened the frame to the rear body. (Luggage floor pan bolted to the rear most frame crossmember by drilling threading and installing bolts)
Rechecked front end location . Looks good. Removed front metal between fenders ahead of the dash where the engine will go. Tired the seat position. Shoulder will be at the post. Not too bad . Just a few inches back of stock really. Engine will come into the cabin but that is to be expected. transcrossmember wil be in a conveneint spot. Seat will be right at the kick up. Wonder If I can do a bench seat and keep it legal. And no I didnt make any race car noises.
Don
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Pictures would make it easier to follow the progress.
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Ok. I made front body brackets today and temp tacked them . Have to move the chassis and body to the front of the shop to finish this part. Will picture it then. Much better light. Hoping to have an engine a tran set up for a trial fit by Sat. However Been married 43 years thursday so it would be unwise to work on it that day.
Don
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Here are some pics. Not the prettiest time in a project but necessary just the same. Also got a lead on a rearend . Going to check right after breakfast.
Don
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Here are some pics. Not the prettiest time in a project but necessary just the same. Also got a lead on a rearend . Going to check right after breakfast.
Don
Many not be the prettiest time but some can argue that it is one of the most fun.
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Rear end turned out to be an 80s Jeep. They are much wider then a 70s Jeep so I am still looking. Tomorrow is a wash for the project as I already mentioned however the plan if possible it to have the engine and trans in for mock up and mount fabbing by Sat. Will definatley picture that. Got an hour in today and finished both of these front mounts. Frame will be below floor pan. That will give me a few more badly needed inches of Head/helmut room. Made front springs today. They will be in the next pic.
Don
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Made more brackets today and welded them in. Also here are the front springs in their approx position. If you arent used to a 1/4 elip' front end stay tuned.
Don
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Had a good day today. Went to my favourite wreckers today looking for a NOS masterCylinder kit for my 63 MAX WEDGE. I had a part number he had the part. He keeps such items in stock as he does a lot of Vintage work as well as running the yard. Told me he had a rather narrow Dodge rear end come in. We went and measured it and I bought it to pick up next time I am there with my truck. He also has several spindles and we made a deal for a set of Dodge or International I beam axle spindles with brakes. I will make the rest.
Then he told me about a private stash of VW fenders and body parts he has. The day couldnt have gone better. Everythimg I needed he had. Price? So little I am not even gonna say. Been friends and fellow tradesmen (not to mention distant relatives) for many many years.
Don
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Had a good day today. Went to my favourite wreckers today looking for a NOS masterCylinder kit for my 63 MAX WEDGE. I had a part number he had the part. He keeps such items in stock as he does a lot of Vintage work as well as running the yard. Told me he had a rather narrow Dodge rear end come in. We went and measured it and I bought it to pick up next time I am there with my truck. He also has several spindles and we made a deal for a set of Dodge or International I beam axle spindles with brakes. I will make the rest.
Then he told me about a private stash of VW fenders and body parts he has. The day couldnt have gone better. Everythimg I needed he had. Price? So little I am not even gonna say. Been friends and fellow tradesmen (not to mention distant relatives) for many many years.
Don
Trade machine shop favors also?????
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I sold my auto machine shop equipment complete just after completing the Nascar Returns to Lemans engine for the driver practice and promotional car. (Christophe Schwartz 72 Olympia Charger)I had had a good career and hadnt made any big mistakes. It was time, as patience and eyesight were on the wain. Tis a very different thing doing work for someone else then working on your own. In my career many of the engines I built were for people who raced where I wasnt (Like Lemans for instance or Nurburgring or even Cayuga. Reading etc ) They had to work reliabliy when they left here and run for a long time without maintenace. Once you cant easily read mikes or jet sizes etc one would be playing with fire taking other's money when you KNOW your best days are behind you so I quit while I was ahead. I still have a couple of lathes and a big mill I bought for my own use but try to avoid outside work. My wife said because I worry when I am working on someone elses too much now that if someone brought a job here she would shot me never mind them. So I now just poke away taking far too long on stuff but enjoying it immensly. Probably more then you asked but tis the long and short of it. Now I basically explore all the stuff I never had time to do.
Don
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Most rear body mounts installed . I could pull frame out and finish welding all the brackety from the underside. I fooled around on the bigger holes in the body. Made several repairs. Also made a cardboard pattern for the front roll pan between the front fenders. This car is pretty tuf but that is ok. It is kind of interesting bringing it back to life. Trying to decide on a pair of Mooneyes or actual headlights. Anyway it was a productive day.
Don
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As I said before this body was pretty ruf. It had spent many years as a bush buggy back at the mines . Basically a 4wd truck chassis with a old tractor rear end with some sort of body (ie this one)sitting on top. The whole front section between the fenders were missing and there were lots of rust holes in the fenders. I had been given a set of 79 fendes but they dont have the rolled underneath the 72 do so I decided to fix these. Body work isnt my thing but I can scrape by at it. All the big holes are now filled and a brand new valance fabbed for between the two front fenders and under the lower part of the hood. Made and installed it today.
Nice distraction for a couple of days.
Don
I added this photo as you can see how tuf it was before with the front end not tied in.
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Good Day. Took frame back out. Did all the underwelding. Drilled and installed 1/4 eliphs for front axle. Also drilled holes for upper front axle link heim joints. Frame still needs motor mounts and trans crossmember but it is coming together.
Don
Dragged out trans and dummied it up after supper. I may be able to drag engine over and fab mounts but need some help. Not easy to find some days.
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Nice to follow a build.
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Likeing this alot, what are those 1/4 eliptics from
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It is a utility trailer spring that happens to be symetrical. I have used one before for other race cars. Seems to be about the right strength. I drill the two holes on each side of the stock centre bolt the chop it at the centre bolt hole . I underhang the tube axle and put a same length upper link on top. So far I have had shocks on all I have built too. The blue dragster is also a 1/4 elip. Single . Axle tube goes right through the spring eye. I really like 1/4 elips.
Today I got the engine and trans in the chassis and fabbed up a trans crossmember and tacked some mounts together. I will remove the mounts tomorrow probably and finish them completely now that I know exactly what it needs. Sorry no pics tonite. I am too tired.
Don
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Here is another one I built a few years back using the same spring. Ths was a Hemi Jeep altered or Jeep bucket (as opposed to T bucket.) This one will use the inside of the frame for the heim joint bracket and spring is bolted not clamped. (this VW frame is .180" wall so is about 1/3 stronger then the jeep which was 1 inch less in height and only .125" wall. )
Don
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Fabbed mounts some more today. While workable I am not totally happy with driver's side . It needs a slight correction in angle which it will get first thing Monday. However motor and trans are sitting entirely on their own mounts so it is "in". Sorry for the motors appearance. I was given it and it is just as it arrived here. It is from a 68 Baracuda. I have no idea of condition. I dont even know if it turns over but if it does the car may get to make a few passes with a stock engine before going for surgery in the other side of the shop. I have now 4 intakes not including the stock one. 5 camshafts, four of which are custom made. I have a spare cylinder head with big valves and some good porting I ran till last fall. I even have a M90 blower. Also a MP race converter for the 998 trans (lockup 904). However I am getting ahead of myself.
Don
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The mounts are extra long as you can see. It is the plan to locate the engine exactly then chop the last couple of inches off , flip them over and weld to the frame for brackets. Then drill and bolt. All takes time and not everything goes perfect the first time but I have learned in bulding cars the hardest part is the first step. After that anything you are not happy with can be redone in an hour or so but you are underway so it doesn't seems as bad. My goal is, if possible, to have a running driving car at around the $500 mark. This engine may not run so that would mess that up. Also the trans is missing all its clutches , drums and front pump so the may be an issue. Anyway this is as home brew as possible which is what I enjoy BUT it will be a safe legal racecar and decent looking too. Fast may have to come later but for now the goal is to "git er done". Paint will be Duplicolour premix for one time painters. I used it on my rail and got a good paint job despite my lack of fancy equipment and skill. Was my first attempt at painting a car. Colour will be their metalic red. As per instructions, set gun at 30PSI, test spray on a cardboard or scrap then shoot. Nothing to add, nothing to mix just pour and shoot. It verked fur me. That paint is $25 per litre (approx US qt)here.
Don
Why start with the stock engine? First: It give one a spur on to the rest of the project but secondly: The $$$experts$$$, all those who KNOW, will be watching hoping it will be a bummer. A solid but mild pass will bring out all the knowing smiles. Next time at the track with some POWER they will be rushing into the staging lanes to blow the doors off me not realizing I came loaded for bear. A hopped up slant six has a deceptively mild sound at even 1200 RPM. (Some of my you tube ride along will give you that sense as the engine purrs softly going to the line in a manner that is very relaxing and will almost put one to sleep) However on full throttle it comes "ALIVE!!!!!!" Some will be surprised and disappointed. Makes it all worth while for me. Kinda feeds my mean streak.
The Golden Rule of Drag Racing
"Do unto others before they undo you"
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Went on a junk yard crawl today with an old friend and fellow mechanic. Had been probably 30 years since we did this. Still as much fun as it always was. We picked up the rear end I bought last week. It is an 8 1/4 mopar and is out of a 75 Duster (Dart Sport) They are a good strong rear end and gears and parts are easy to find. Width is 55 inches which is wider then I liked but still fits inside the VW bug rear fenders. Speaking of which I found a pair of rear fenders in the same wreckers. Brought one home. Will get the other next trip.
Don
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I have the motor and trans installed and everything tacked in place. Got to remove it and finish all frame welds then clean it up and paint it. Rod ends for the ladder bars are ordered and should be here next week. Spindles are ordered so I can make the front axle when I get them. Brakes are included. Trying to decide ifI will sit in drivers location or sit in the middle. Is middle sitting really OK in a gasser built to pre 68 rules?
Don
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I have the motor and trans installed and everything tacked in place. Got to remove it and finish all frame welds then clean it up and paint it. Rod ends for the ladder bars are ordered and should be here next week. Spindles are ordered so I can make the front axle when I get them. Brakes are included. Trying to decide ifI will sit in drivers location or sit in the middle. Is middle sitting really OK in a gasser built to pre 68 rules?
Don
This is what the local Gasser Serries rules says, not sure what your local Gasser rules are, you should check
"6.0 INTERIOR
Seats
Driver’s seat must be to left side of drive shaft. Properly braced, framed, and supported.
Seats constructed of aluminum, fiberglass, carbon fiber or double-layer poly
(automotive accessory seats) permitted. *
* Excerpt in whole or part from IHRA/NHRA rule book
þ - 1/8th mile ET Posted 3/11/2013 rules"
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Thanks Glenn. I will stick to that then.
Today I got a phone call from a Mopar guy I did engines for for almost 20 years. Said he was giving me a set of front wheels and tires he used to run on his race car. Thought they would look good on the Bug gasser and he was weary of moving them around in his crowded shop eveytime he had to do something. My friend Mike with the Willys Gasser also offered a set of loaner push it around rear wheels and tires.
Don
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My 5/8 rod ends came today. I finished one ladder bar (welding on female threaded inserts and installing heim joint for test fit. I will probably finish the other tomorrrow.
Don
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Now to make the diff brackets and get it all together. Bit by bit it is coming together.
Don
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I made the rear brackets today. Got some hardware and test fitted. Still undecided on locator bar design. Tempted to work from the old pinion snubber bracket to each ladderbar bt will think a bit. have to final drill the front hole in the frame rail and make the spacers to centre the heim joints. That is all ok. Steady progress is steady progress. I always build my chassis with a taper front to back. In this case the rear frame section is pulled back in but the ladder bars are in line with the main frame rail allowing them full swing without hitting the framesection at the rear.
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Spent a couple of hours on small stuff. Mostly reworks of initail set up. Not much fun but necessary. Still no spindles. Would really like Dodge A100 or Chev handi-van. Today I would like to fab the locator bars and brackets.
Don
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Spent a couple of hours on small stuff. Mostly reworks of initail set up. Not much fun but necessary. Still no spindles. Would really like Dodge A100 or Chev handi-van. Today I would like to fab the locator bars and brackets.
Don
You have too much energy.
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Not really. I have a severely damaged ribcage so I have to get done what I am doing in the morning because by about 2 PM work is almost impossible.
I have been working on it though. Ladder bars are DONE. Locator bar brackets are made and installed. Rebuilt the crossmember completley. Built gussets for all the stress points and tacked them in place. The frame is essentially done to the point the engine and bars and brackets must be removed. I will spend a morning going over all the welds. Finishing welds in different positions and the flap wheel the whole deal and paint it.
Once that is done I will bolt the body on and I will have a large portion of my shop back and can work at a more liesurely pace.
Don
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After a relaxing Canada Day yesterday at Centennial Park on Trenton for the annual Canada Day Car show I awoke this morning ready to go. I finished all the welding on the frame. I even added some extra braces as I dont want to ever have to repair this one. I bought a new flapp wheel for the angle grinder and it took only an hour to removed the old silver paint and get it ready for a new coat. I used Tremclad (not unlike Rustoleum) in a flat black very close to chassis black and applied it to the bottom and sides of the frame by hand. I will flip er over in the morning and finsh the top side. Then probably in the afternoon will begin assembly
Don
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Spent a couple of hours on small stuff. Mostly reworks of initail set up. Not much fun but necessary. Still no spindles. Would really like Dodge A100 or Chev handi-van. Today I would like to fab the locator bars and brackets.
Don
You have too much energy.
X2!
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Frame is Done. Body is on , engine and trans are in (for now. ) Lots of room. May be abe to sit in stock location. As much as all this takes the worst will be fixing this old VW body but time is the cure for everything.
Don
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Finally I got the spindles. They came from a Ford 1/2 ton and are 5 on 5 . I believe the jeeps are as well so I am looking for a set of those cool alumum Jeep wheels with the 5 large holes to fit to these spindles. I will machine and narrow then for front runners if necesary.
An old racer whom I built a lot of experimental stuff for came over and donated a good, in fact perfect set of front tires. My friend Mike lent me a set of old 15 X 10 cragars with MT posi tires for rolling the car around and fitting mods.
Don
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Things are coming together. A couple of people were teasing me about just joining the two Ford I beams together. because of the big brakes on the Ford 1/2 ton spidles i became concerned about using the tubing I use on unbraked frant axles for this axle. During the night I got an idea how to join the tow independant I beams properly and have it look right. Here is the result. It took about 3 hours in all. Cost about $5. I made it with a 52 inch track (stock bug) kinda wish I had gone for 50 or even 48 . I will think it over and if I think it warrants it will shorten it some more. Here it is with body now bolted to the frame and front axle in a trial fit of rear wheel.
Don
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Looking good Don, I have joined front beams useing solid shaped to fit the back then plug welding through the front, show us how you did yours
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I cut it clamped it with a pair of rims only (no tires) and set the camber at zero by making sure the wheels were flat on the cement floor before tacking. I butt welded it. I used AC and 6013(because I am good with it and believe a good weld beats a fancy iffy one everytime ) I welded the bottom first the both side veeing and chiping to be sure it is a good weld. I left thetop unwelded and took my angle grinder and a thick cut off wheel and sliced back 6 inches on both sides of centre just below the top part of the upperI beam. I then wedged this now somewhat flexable pieces up about 1/2 inch giving the I beam and more normal appearance instead of the extreme taper it was born with at the narrow eng. I then carefully built the centre section back chipping grinding and checking all the way. It turned out far better then i thought. I have made a few axles before , even from scratch so I knew what would work strengthwise. I just wasnt sure about appearance but figured if it wasnt up to parr all I had lost was a few hours and some rod. No big deal. I gave it the "Ring" test and it passed. Here is what I removed . I dint take pics before because I didnt really expect it to turn out this good. I am off to the shop to install the ladderbars and axle now.
Don
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I have it up on its rear wheels now. Full suspension compression (as in no coil overs installed. ) I drew in the locator bar design. It goes to the pinion snubber bolts , one bar per side, and connects to brackets I built on the ladder bars. Trans and diff line up perfectly (how'd that happen?) I will find the average angle and then glue it together permently. I figured absolute max rear spring compression at 4 inch with no more then 3 inches under 99% of circumstances. The tires look like they will clear. These are just some old push arounds borrowed from Mike and have a huge offset but it looks like all will be well. Car will have a bit of a wide stance and I would like to keep front and rear same averaged track. (55 inch currently for both.) It looks like it will work with the right wheel choices. Ride height is about the same as my 63 Dodge and my slant six FED allowing for the 4 inch spring rise. That is measured from the frame to ground.
This is getting to be a very interesting project for me.
Don
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Don, you're both an inspiring and highly motivating man.
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No I just hate sitting watching TV.
Anyway the budget for this month ($100 per month for hot rod hobby)and next has been murdered. I will have to walk on Tiptoes for awhile while it recovers so I will be working at whatever can be done with what is on hand.
Don
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Good for you Don. I don't care for TV either. I bought a new (old) house last December, didn't care to buy a TV yet...
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I was not totally satisfied with the width of the front end. It was OK but not what I wanted so today I dragged out the axle and shortened it another 4 inches. I also removed all the old bracketry and such. Was very hot today so I didnt get it completely finished but it is welded but not yet pretty. I also made the brackets to go from the I beam to the 1/4 elips. I made a cardboard pattern and will install them tomorrow . then the car will be supported on its own wheels for the first time. The upper links wont be on but that will come in due time. It will still be standing. I also treated this engine I got free to a good dose of brake fluid. It is stuck but wasnt sitting exposed so it may come free. If it does I will fire it for moving around eventually before installing some ponies.
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.... I also treated this engine I got free to a good dose of brake fluid... .
Interesting... first time hearing such trick. Thanks Don.
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Dot 3 brake fluid is friendly with moisture which is one of its drawbacks however it will go anywhere moisture will which many oils and so called magic trick stuff wont. It usually works unless the engine is so corroded the crap must be mechanically removed. When I was an apprentice mechanic now many years ago an ol lad taught me this trick. Many times over the years I have thanked him in my thoughts. If the engine is hurt and wont roll it isnt a big deal to whip it apart and have it punched but it would be a lot of fun to have it bark to life as is.
don
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Did the initial install of the 1/4 elip spring hangers. Did a test install and it stands up properly. Springrate is very close to ideal I would say. Now I have to fab the upper links and brackets so I can lean the king pins back for some POS caster.
These axles are not straight. In normal installation they wind around each other because of the twin I beams. In a drag car this is wonderful now as it gives me a long front tire. (No red Lights) I always ran all my cars at max legal offset anyway. This one has it natura. In fact I took some out of it. Still if I get a bit high on converter and low on brake some times it rolls in a bit . So far with the little blue rail I just get a deep stage and still a green light in most cases. Should work well in Das Auto too I hope.
Don
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Using a wooden 2x4 clamped to the frame rail and resting on the I beam I clamped the inside bracket to the 2x4 at the I beam, then I tacked it in place. I repeated it on the other side . Then using a stack of scraps that are exactly the same width as a 1/2inch heim joint I clamped the other ear to the outside of the first one and tacked it. Repeated on the right side of the car. I removed all the ruf jigging and welded them in place both sides. Now I need 4 heim joints and about 2 feet of tubing to complete the alignment sensitive parts of the front suspenion. With 1/4 elips no panhard or linkage needed as like a normal leaf spring set up they are self supporting laterly as well as vertically.
Then I positioned the engine in its final spot and drilled the holes for the mount fasteners as well as for the trans. With a 904 trans you have access from the top so if you are careful you can drill your first holes from above which I did. Finally I did some more trimming of the old dash and firewall as well as some of the under hood areas. At that point it was time to quit for the day before I did something stupid.
Don
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The more I work with 1/4 elips the more I like them. Today I installed the shocks. The shackle nut us machined to just fit inside the bottom shock ring. A longer nut from the spring industry is machined to fit inside from the outer end. As long as the thread protrude at least the distance as the diameter of the bolt (5/8 here) then the butted nut section will have no trouble. Especially since it is a shock and used only for dampening, not load carrying. Top end takes a 1/2 inch bolt which will travel through the shock , through the chassis tubing (supported by a steel sleeve, through the not yet there 1/2 inch heim joint and secured by a nut and safety washer. I also bought the other fender today and we found one a bit better then we had so got it as well. I will understand if someone thinks these fenders are real tuff. they are but as Mom said a bird in the hand beat two in the bush everytime. I will fix them if I have to but if better shows up that is a plus. I also bought a hood from a flat winshield bug but it doesnt fit right so I am still looking there although if I never found one this one can be made to work but I hope it doesnt come to that.
Don
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I finished up the shock mounts today and started on the rear fenders. This one was a crumpled mess. Flattened0n the whole front side and ripped and folded over at the rear. Looked like the car had been sidewiped. I wasnt going to show this but mrs D said I should after she saw the first one all back together and fixed. . Whenever I am working on something real bad I fix the MOST OBJECTIONAL part first. Then any reason not to fix it becomes non existant. So I unfolded the crumple at the biggest part. Tapped the pieces a bit with a hammer to get them so they would mate up and then clamped and tacked the big rip together. I then pounded the flattened side back out being careful not to stretch the metal. If this looks bad to you now you should have seen it two hours ago. (When my wife first suggested I should picture it first. ) Anyway I find this fun. It is also interesting. Yes I can buy new at $196 each. Aint gonna happen. I have the other one done as far a straighten and weld repair. It turned out pretty good. I show another pic when it is completley back together and straight. Then it is sand blast install loosely on the car and finish tapping here and there. After that give it the big slurp and carve it out.
Don
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What a difference a day makes.
Don
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Really impressive Don!
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Thanks. It was an interesting challenge but I really enjoyed it. I dont think I have more then 3 1/2 hours in it so far. Big thing right now is to find a proper 73 to 79 Super Beetle hood in any usuable condition. Got to be a Beetle club around here somewhere. They must have some throw-aways in search of their concours restorations. Anyways while the fender is not yet perfect I am sure it is straighter then it was before its last repair. It had a lot of fill in it. I took out all the dents i could without causing undue stress in the metal.
Yesterday afternoon and old racing pal now residing in Australia showed up in my driveway. Back in the 70s we called him Hurricane David and he had that on the side of is Camaro race car as well. He has since become "Respsectable" but gave the car a good inspection and suggested it would be a fun race car. Twas a long tme ago but we spent the next few hours reminising on the good ol days. He had driven my Dart a bit for me as well but we went racing together(two trucks two trailers) many many times and now realize what a blast that was looking back. Lots of laughs anyway. Twas the best of times. Here he is expressing his idea it would be a fun car to drve. Way back behind that glint in his eye I see an "I wonder if I should build another car?"
Don
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I spent the morning finishing all the minor points on the drivers side fender. All welding and beating there is finished. I set about to finish the pass side fender. I have to remove it to finish grind one spot but it is essentially ready too. Tomorrow I will get a product we have here called rust converter and treat any suspicious areas . Then a good ruff sanding and I will bolt them up with a cardboard barrier at the body seam and begin the fill and sanding.. I will take them about like the rear port of the body for now and leave the final stuff for just before paint. There will always be some issues anyway. Life is like that. Still a couple of weeks ago I had no rear fenders . In fact the fellow who gave it too me gave up on it mainly because of that. Now with a $30 investment and two days or so hard work that issue is GONE!
I have been looking through old books. There were a lot of these cars used for dragging back in the day. Mostly SBChev powered. But still a lot more then I thought. Most were run as altereds . Probably because of the old pre mid sixties Must be North American Gas class rule . Gotta get some low pofile free front tires from the tire shop on these old rims so I can finsh suspension set up and move it around easily. Probably will have to make my own front wheels to get what I want. I will probably buy 4 of the steel wheels like I have on the Sr dragster rear and narrow the front set. .This is a budget build but I dont want it to look,like it. I have been very happy with the rear wheel treatment on the SrDragster.
Don
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On its tires now. Front shot gives a hint of how it will look when done. Stock signal lamps and tailights are XXed. Discovered that is what makes a VW goofy looking. Also did some front body patching.
Don
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Amusing on how much progress you have made
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Thanks, I set a goal for each day and do it then quit. Inch by inch anything can be done.
Don
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Car is 2 lbs heavier. I know because my 2 lb mig spool just ran out. Got driver side patched same as the pass side. I filled signal lamp holes in fenders and gave the initial fill over both patches. Meausred for a seat. I am wanting to use a bus seat for a bench type seat. I think it will look good and allow a passenger if I desire. (I think Mrs D would like a ride. A bus seat is aprox 39 inches which is about perfect. I can mount it on the frame and have a good strong but not too heavy seat with a self supporting back. Roll bar (for now) should fit niceley with this set up. May even be able to get MrsD to make me a Redneck seat cushion and back like she did for the senior dragster out of Blue Denim. OH yeah also received a donation of a set of aluminum 8X15 wheels found in the local dump. I think they will look good with a sand blast and a fin polish with the body grinder while spinning on a brake lathe. Haldibrands would be nice but freebies always work.
Don
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I asked Mrs D about redneck seat upholstery. Got a yes! Ever since Stacey David talked about her doing the Sr Dragster upholstery on his Gearz show she has been content to help.
Don
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I asked Mrs D about redneck seat upholstery. Got a yes! Ever since Stacey David talked about her doing the Sr Dragster upholstery on his Gearz show she has been content to help.
Don
Was that on a greaz show, my son was on the show when he went this last time to the Hot Rod Institute. He was a student there at the time, he was in three different sceans
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Small world. Yes it was at the end of Knucklebuster episode. Stacy Emailed me and said it is now on You tube . The whole Knucklebuster episode and the what are you workin on? segment.
Kinda wierd how it got there. I had emailed him when he left trucks to say we missed him. His show was always interesting and free of inuendos (IE Truck U) My wife would come and watch and laugh as he did his fun stuff. He had no show then but on his web page was a whats in your garage or something. I had the Sr Dragster started and in tube frame only I think so I sent a jpeg. . When the Gearz show came up his producer emailed and said Stacy wanted pictures taken this way and that and a short description. So I obliged. Didnt think anything would happen but about a year later I got an email saying you better be watching saturday morning. Was kind of neat we thought. He pronouced my name Duelmayche (It is pronounced DULL May che)but Ill live. He said "look what this old guy built." Kinda funny because I think him and I are the same age. Anyway it made many folks here angry since the cars they "bought" are much nicer I am sure. On reruns I have had emails from folks who know me from Georgia and even California. Even my former baby sitter from the fifties saw it and told her hubby who knew me back then but hadnt seen me since I was 9 years old that is the Don we know. He was sure she was wrong but she hunted me down and asked.
Now we are losing all those shows. Why I have no idea.
Don
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I really like trucks when he was on.
The power block shows have become nothing but ads and bolt ones, Extrem 4X4 is still pretty good., Muscle car died when lou left, struggled with rick. I like Tommy a lot he should be the host
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I sent them a video once when they had thing going to get new folks on.They did contact me.The money was a joke to move that far and the cost of living there would have been big thing.
Now if I had live nearby it wouldn't have been terrible deal. I think they where talking something like 45,000 a year .Not like it would be butt busting work.It was a behind the sceens job,guess I wasn't pretty enough to be in front or camera.Naw had to be they where affraid other guys get jealous of all my female fans. 8)
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Naw had to be they where affraid other guys get jealous of all my female fan
We all have our burdens to bear. ;>). I made a video for Global or i should say they came here and shot it. Steve Sheahan was the producer and camera man. They were trying something and warned me it might not go but were kind enuf to edit and let me flog it. They were trying to change the Dream Car Garage format from rich folks (CarrolShelby etc)to normal folks like most of us. Didnt fly. Was fun though. Hard business. I wrote for a few mags (CP and Canadian Classics) for several years. Wouldnt ever get rich at it. Or "Dont quit yer day job" to say the least.
ANYWAY back in the shop I have been beating on the bug. Welded up the severely rusted front upper quarters and did all but the final body work. Also welded filled and sanded the turn signal holes . Now I have to remove the front fenders and repair the flanges. We are getting there slowly. Also since the engine wont come free I have to bore it and get some pistons. I poured a bunch of castings a couple of years ago and machined up a single comp ring at 040 over. I pulled it out and layed out the pin height for boring the pin hole. Tis 100 higher in the hole then stock if I bore it here. Only had a .750" end mill so I will wait till I can pick up a .875 " for the ruf bore then finish it on the Sunnen. I made a bunch of these blanks but this is the only one I finshed. I will test fit it then if I like it will set up the piston lathe (converted turret lathe) and make 5 more plus some spares.
Don
PS, Wreckers just phoned. I have a schoolbus seat. $10 . Said it measures 39 inches which is perfect.
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Forget that! Went out after supper and checked my cores.Most will finish below stock size so they wont work out. I built these as a learning experience without regard to specific use. They are very close to slant six bore but just by chance. Most will finish up just shy. Are they strong enuf. Yup. Once I tried for two hours with a large vice and hammer to crack one that came out of the mold with an oclusion. I had to cut it first to get it to crack. It took 2 years to make and refine the steel mold and learn to make and bake the inside core. I dont feel like going thru that again. So now to find a good sub piston for this engine.
Don
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Got the bus seat. Did a quick test install. Will work perfectly. After Linda is done making me the trick denim upholstery it will look much better. My creeper subbed in for bum section of seat cushion as thestock ones are too thick (about 5 inches) and it was crap anyway. I will makenew Plywood boards for fastening the upholstery to. Seat are very strong. Back has full steel backing and bum section will soon. Seat sits perfect on Frame kick up for rear suspension . Height is perfect and position about right for driving. Front of my sholder will be just about at the door post which isnt bad. Too hot to work anymore today. Still every inch is progress.
Don
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Patching rusty fenders and main body panels can wear thin after awhile. I have most of the welding on the drivers side front fenders and main body done. Fortunatley there are only 4 fenders! And 3 are now done!
Don
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Weight of the car is up another pound. Burned through a roll of mig wire today. Got a lot done but nothing pretty or photographic. got chided for welding my body patches in completely. Cant help it . Tis in my genes I guess.
Don
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Put in a great day. Drivers side is getting close to finished repair. Put the first skim of kitty hair over it and gave it a quick pass with the the grinder. Car is very solid up front now. Rod ends arrived this afternoon. I will stop by and pick them up in the morning but will probably see the completion of this sides body work thru before making up the upper front suspension links
Don.
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Don, you're as motivated as a locomotive!
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I got a lot done on the left side. Basic body repair for this side(welding grinding filing and boarding with 80) is done. I also clean up the inner fender section removing much of the used stuff and welding in patches. I will have to do some prettying up in the engine compartment too but it should be ok. Iime to start the last side. It doesnt look to nice but it has to be done. I also got my heim joints and began to make the upper links. Here is a trial fit. I use new wheel nuts welded to the tubing for heim joint threads. They are deep , good threads , already tapered for welding so one can get real good penatration. I will pick some up in the morning as I am out of 1/2 inchers at the moment.
Don
I have been told I am as big as one too!
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made the upper links today. Now caster is adjustable. 1/4 elips are so straight forward I can almost not understand why they are not more popular. This is all that is needed each side. A spring a shock (rules state on shock per sprung wheel.) and an upper link. I first learned about them when KS Pitman first built his 33 Willys. And that is a long time ago now.
Don
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I did some more work on the dr side fender so it could be bolted back on for fitting and further body work. It is solid now and has all its attachment holes repaired. Then I went to work on the front suspension making the sleeves for inside the frame rails so they don't collapse, trimming one side of the shock and bolting the heim joint and shock assembly home with 1/2 gr 8 bolt. I have the safety washer on the heim joint and also on the shock side as well. I will evenutually change these nuts over to selflocknuts as I hate surprises (especially when driving.)
Don
I also have to fire up the lathe and make some thin locknuts
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Hard day at the office! I got all the welding done and first ruff coat of kitty hair on the worst parts on the body. Ran out of kitty hair, body fill and sheet metal all on the same day.
don
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I have done so much filling and sanding I am tired of it. Still have made a lot of progress.
Don
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Front part of body is done as far as body work main body work goes. Fenders are rehung for the big job of reviving them. They are now all one piece and have all their bolt holes and flanges but they are tuff. Tomorrow I have to help Mike S fire the Chassis Research style Hemi rail. It has been three years of long hard work so he is getting anxious to hear it roar. I just looked in to see how he was coming. He was bolting the last heqder on when I was there. (Straight zoomies) and has the fuel. Most of the coolant in . Oil in engine and trqns Has done some oil pump priming and has it at TDC. I hope it goes like clockwork for him.
We shall see.
Don
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First I made cardboard dams to bolt between the fender and body so I could work right up to it and then remove the fender for final detail. First coat was long fiber filled body filler to give the repair strength and depth. I sanded and redid again. Then sanded and switched to straight filler. I forget who but someone taught me that many years ago. Body work was something I did very little of and hated. Now I find it relaxing and interesting. I have had some tips from friends who are pros. I am surprised I could fix these fenders but can see now they will be strong and look good. Still have a long way to go but now I can see the progress. The fellow and his wife who gave me the body were here Thursday. They were a bit surprised. She took lots of pictures.
Don
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While all this body work may seem unimportant I will share a bit. I was watching a restoration show. A price was quoted of $115,000.00 to redo an old Lincoln. At first I thought it was nuts but then when they explained the hours of shop labour at $80.00 per hour I understood. I ran my own shops for years and when I retired was getting $47.00 with no complaints. That was 1997 so $80.00 today is not unreasonable. So I sat down and figured out the hours I had in this car so far. Came out as of Friday evening at 165 hours and $566.00 parts and materials so far. 165X80= $13200+$566=$13766.00. Yikes!!!!!!! Bottom line is if I didn't do it myself it would be impossible for me. All of the sudden I am sanding and welding with a new vigor!!!! Yes I know my car even when finished will never be worth that to sell. Still it was a learning experience for me. I hadn't thought of it quite like that before. Even when I was doing specialty engines I think the most expensive I ever did which is running around Europe at Nurnburg and Lemans was under $7000.00. I probably should have added an extra zero!
Don
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I never thought I would get to this point but all major work in front of the doors is done. No welding left up here. Fenders are about 90% done . Now it is just fit together and finish to match. I found a hood tonight at cruise night. Sounds like I can trade what I don't need for a hood. Now it is just fill and sand till it is perfect. Beginning to get the hang of bodywork.
Don
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"... Beginning to get the hang of bodywork."
Now... THAT'S humbleness!
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"... Beginning to get the hang of bodywork."
Now... THAT'S humbleness!
For some reason you always get the hang off it at the end of a project?????????
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This was also a very good day. There is an old song that goes Some Days Are Diamonds, Some Days are Stones. Today it was Diamonds. It started after breakfast this morning when Mike S and I headed for our secret old wreckers.
Mike needed an NOS starter drive for his Willys starter (54 Chrysler) and I was looking for a set of those old helper springs that go around the shocks. When we got to the fellows shop (he is also a very good and duly licensed Mechanic) He said to me "We were just talking about you." He asked how the project was coming. I told him I needed to try a set of those helper springs and he said "There is an old set on the stack here along the wall." I found them quickly and pulled out my wallet to pay. "I think I will just give them to you" he said. Fine by me. I got home and tried compressing them they were really a bit too springy. I knew if I shortened them they would be stronger. I had calculated previously that something with a combined spring rate of 100lbs per inch would be right. (300lbs total) I needed 5 inches of at rest spring height to sit the car level. I had figured a free length of about 8 inches would work as a jump off point. So measured them . They were exactly 16 inches long. I found the middle and cut both in half. I used the end WITHOUT the progressive winding as I new it would be stronger. I jacked the car up and removed my fake springs (4X4 X 5 inch tall wooden blocks) and inserted the springs. I lowered the car and it sat perfect about a 1/2inch higher then before but I am not in it yet so that was fine. I was surprised my calculations had been right on. It was just an idea to find a basic starting point. Actual rear end weight is not that high as much of the rear end weight comes from the differential, rear wheels and slicks and is unsprung weight. I already knew what the frame weighed and had a pretty good idea the body was about the same at that end of the car. Other then me a bit of aluminum floor there is nothing else putting weight back there. Since I am in the center of the car relative to fore and aft only a portion of my weight will be there as well. Anyway I am in the ball park.
Then after an afternoon with friends at the local car show my wife and I headed off to town for supper. As we pulled up at a stoplight I spied a chrome 4 inch exhaust stack lying at the curb beside the car. "Grab that dear" I said. Despite her arthritis and age she had it in the car before the light changed green. We pulled around the corner and I put it in the back of her SUV while she cleaned the black soot from her hands with several wet wipes. I now have the pipe for the collectors for this engine.
A final finish to the day some old friends bought our dinner unknown to us for some reason. They were at a table nearby. Some days are diamonds. Really.
Don
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Upper spring locators welded in. Ladder bar brackets set after determining pinion angle and welded in place. Front legs installed on the old bus seat so it could be moved into position. Tested it which also tests my new springs. ALL is good!
Don
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I made and tacked in the lower spring pockets or locators. You can also see one of the "Feather Links" I made. This bolts to the normal Mopar pinion snubber bolt with a 8 inch length of 3/16" flatbar which is welded to a length of 1/2" .120" wall tubing which has a 1/2heim joint attached at the far end. That end fits into double bracket on the ladder bar. This prevents any lateral movement of the rear end while allowing full suspension operation. There is one bar per side of course. My design as far as I know.
Don
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I made the other side link today. I like the design. Suspension still has full flex but rear end is positively located by the triangulated "featherlinks" which have enuf flex to allow suspension to remain "live". I have had a steady procession of people stopping by to look at the project. Seems to be a lot more interest then I would have thought. So many visitors I am not getting enuf done.
Don
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An old friend was cleaning out his garage today and found a set of Mooneyes headlights from his old gasser project. He donated them to mine. A few minutes of measuring and trimming and here they are. He also gave me a set of old but excellant condition oil shocks which are perfect for there rear of this gasser.
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Scored asset of pistons yesterday that will work in the slant six. Good oversize and large increase in compression. I made up a tool to convert them to the slant six. Got two ruf tooled as we speaK.
Don
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LOTS of progress!
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Yes. Seems to be building itself
Don
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My free shocks are too long for the car so I ordered a pair by length. Made everything to fit them and tacked them on place fairly heavily. They control the bounce, are at mid travel at rest and will not allow the springs to escape at full extension. So far so good. Poor lighting in the shop today but here is a couple of pics.
Don
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Late last night a couple of old racer friends from the Picton Airfield Armdrop group dropped by with a FREE truck load of slant six parts. Two blocks (one with only 25000 miles )and their heads and hardware and another new style head. (good for turbo use as they have extra bracing on the dist side so tend to hold the head gasket better.) Also a standard unsilenced air cleaner for a slant six. I now have a pair so the tunnel ram for the rail will sport two of these beauties in line after I make bottoms. Now you may not think this is a big deal but slant sixes are now hard to find. With all the scrap being bought during the last big boom they disappeared from all the local yards and what was once I can find one anywhere is now very hard to find. I will put the low mileage one back together and if I find a Buick Regal /Grand National Turbo Set Up I will whip it on this motor. The other will be apart today and go for boring. I could do it here on my huge vertical mill but I would have to buy or build a boring fixture which is more trouble then it is worth. Going .100" over. (Current dragster engine is .153" over)
Don
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Late last night a couple of old racer friends from the Picton Airfield Armdrop group dropped by with a FREE truck load of slant six parts. Two blocks (one with only 25000 miles )and their heads and hardware and another new style head. (good for turbo use as they have extra bracing on the dist side so tend to hold the head gasket better.) Also a standard unsilenced air cleaner for a slant six. I now have a pair so the tunnel ram for the rail will sport two of these beauties in line after I make bottoms. Now you may not think this is a big deal but slant sixes are now hard to find. With all the scrap being bought during the last big boom they disappeared from all the local yards and what was once I can find one anywhere is now very hard to find. I will put the low mileage one back together and if I find a Buick Regal /Grand National Turbo Set Up I will whip it on this motor. The other will be apart today and go for boring. I could do it here on my huge vertical mill but I would have to buy or build a boring fixture which is more trouble then it is worth. Going .100" over. (Current dragster engine is .153" over)
Don
Love to see some shots of the shop.
Post them here
We are all proud of our shops Post pictures here.
http://www.frontenginedragsters.org/forum/index.php?topic=82.0
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I'd have to spend a week cleaning it first. Not particularily proud of it. Not like it was when I was working out if it. Most of the machines are gone and half the light bulbs are out. And I am not safe on a ladder.
Don
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I put the good free slant six engine back together and took the bad one apart for boring. I have the pistons, .100" oversize.
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Don, you work FAST! I'm trully enjoying this build, wish lived close by to see it live.
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One of the joys of retirement I guess. Thanks
Today I stripped the bad block completely ready for my degreasing tank and boring but I have cone across perhaps a better piston for it so I am going to hold back a bit and think it through before jumping off the deep end. Got lots I can do on the car itself . Non of which cost money, only time and effort. Just a couple of weeks now till Picton Airfield so I have to make sure the other car is ready. I need a little break anyway.
Don
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Back at it after a long winter. Yesterday I started making a paper pattern to mount the steering box which I had given to a friend before I got this car but he was sure it wouldn't work so I suggested he return it then. Works fine here I think. I hade a paper pattern for the bracket that I can use to make the steel one then will weld it solidly to the frame and bolt the box on. Attached shaft is long enuf as is with no u joints and it looks like I can make that work nicely. Also trial fitted the rear fenders. Looks not bad. I am in no particular rush but find I need something to do for a few hours each weekday. As my ancestors would say ruhig gehirn ist der werkstadt von teufel. Roughly "An idle brain is the devil's workbench". My wife would say it keeps me out of trouble. I now enjoy puttering away at it. I have no goal date, just something to do I enjoy. I just finished installing the tunnel ram on the slant six dragster yesterday morning and all looks good so I turned back to the VW in the afternoon while she was at the hair dressers. Also got the pistons and now the blanks to make the pins to put these secret pistons on the / 6 rods. May start that process underway next week after I finish testing and tuning the tunnel ram to be sure it is good to go May 17 at Picton. BTW my friend Will Vilneff has almost finished his VW gasser (WVs VW) .He took the engine and trans out of his 64 Beaumont (Canadian Pontiac sold Chevelle)gasser and put it in the bug. It is a 383 Chevy small block. He built a set of fenderwell headers from the same material I did (Lowes steel conduit bends and straights. They look store bought. Said it cost him under $100. His Moser axles will be in on Tuesday. I am hoping to see it perhaps this coming week (about 60 miles away) We all promised if required we would do a Saturday burn with him to help get it finished of required although my guess is he will have it done anyway. Aside from being a duly licensed mechanic Bill is also a very good welder having spent many years welding for Surge milkers and doing welding construction and maintenance at the 3M mine. When I see his welds and fitment I get jealous.
It was Bill who gave me this VW body.
don
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I have been poking away on Das Auto between other work. Before I had this body I gave away a steering box and shaft. Through a great stroke of luck I recently got it back. It is now installed on a newly fabbed bracket. I went to our secret supply today , an old unknown wrecker and old friend. Within minutes he came up with the proper pitman arm for the box. Looks like it will work with very little modification. This dumb car sometimes seems to be building itself.
don
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Pitman arm was shortened and recentred by removing some of the teeth. Box and pitman arm is now permanently installed.
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Good day! My friend Mike gave me a set of aluminum rims he found in the dump. They were pitted a flaking and are the ones often seen on 70s T birds etc. I cut the three steel hubcap teats off with a cut off wheel and ground them flat. I bought a fresh flap wheel for my 41/2 inch grinder and polished the flat pitted face and all the tops of the ribs . I also buffed the rim face and edges. I blew it off and gave it a coat of VHT silver header paint. WOW! Suddenly a set of worthless rims look like something again. I drilled the rims for the dragster slick tubes and installed the slicks. Now they are on the car. I am smiling. But wait as Carm Nobes used to say. That's not all. tonight the VW Whisperer Arron Christopher brought me the rare 73 Super Beetle hood I had been unable to find. As I said it was a good day.
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Lower centre hood pin and windup key
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The trans I am using for mock up has no drums in it as they were stolen for other projects or repairing a friends RED trans. Went to the wreckers friday to see what a parts trans would cost. He said $50 I was hoping for $20.
don
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I try to accomplish something everyday however yesterday was our 44th anniversary so I knew better then to stay home and work on it. However I made up for lost time today. As some of you know I had to make the centre section of the front end as it was completely missing. Getting the rough fenders to fit smoothly to the new piece was my project for today. It was a success. I am doing all the rough body work( ie repairs) first before I start the finish work. I also made and installed the steering wheel adapter and the wheel. And I purchased the steel to make the new steering arms. I have to lay out the Ackerman then transfer it to the new arms. Experience has taught me that even though in a straight line it is unimportant the ease of driving loading turning around the pits and staging lanes with a car with good Ackerman will bring a smile to even the most cold hearted builder. No tire scrubbing, no fighting the wheel , no bending or twisting parts. The photo is of my work today on the lower fender body seams despite the fact you cant see it they come apart and are not welded to the body. Before painting I will install the normal VW welting in the seam. don
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I try to accomplish something everyday however yesterday was our 44th anniversary so I knew better then to stay home and work on it. However I made up for lost time today. As some of you know I had to make the centre section of the front end as it was completely missing. Getting the rough fenders to fit smoothly to the new piece was my project for today. It was a success. I am doing all the rough body work( ie repairs) first before I start the finish work. I also made and installed the steering wheel adapter and the wheel. And I purchased the steel to make the new steering arms. I have to lay out the Ackerman then transfer it to the new arms. Experience has taught me that even though in a straight line it is unimportant the ease of driving loading turning around the pits and staging lanes with a car with good Ackerman will bring a smile to even the most cold hearted builder. No tire scrubbing, no fighting the wheel , no bending or twisting parts. The photo is of my work today on the lower fender body seams despite the fact you cant see it they come apart and are not welded to the body. Before painting I will install the normal VW welting in the seam. don
Why not weld up the body and smooth the seams?
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My heritage wont allow it. Nicht richtig. Besides I found a way to make good seems. I do the rough body work then mount the fender with a piece of Bristol board between. I tighten it up the mix up some kitty hair and give each side a coat being sure to push it well into any of the voids that there are. When I grind it of using a flap wheel I wind up with a nearly perfect seem. I then give it a coat of regular filler and flap wheel that off as well. That brings is ready for the normal sand and paint body work so I leave it at this point for later. I realized I have now been working on this over a year. That is fine because I am still enjoying it. I may enter it in the Ameliasburgh Car show unfinished section. The Jeep altered I built won a big prize last year although since I had sold it and am no longer connected with it that was unknown to most that I had designed and built it. I did however get a smile out of it. It won Peoples Choice. The guy who showed it was quite embarrased. When they called his name I congratulated him on winning thinking it was for his dragster. Shh he said This was for the Hemi Jeep. I held out my hand but he didn't fill it with the trophy ;>)
don
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Did he sake your hand?
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Not that I remember. I was out for my morning stroll down the hill and back up. I popped in the shop for a moment thinking of what you said. I may look into welding the rear fenders on instead of bolting them. It would solve a lot of issues I will have with them and the car realistically can never be show Q anyway as it was too far gone.
Here is the Jeep I did. Some of you will recognize the fellow posing with it. My friend Bob B.
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Started making the steering arms today. Started with a length of 2 1/2 X3/8 angle iron. I had to cut away a lot of metal and still have much more to do. Never the less it has to be done if I want it to steer properly.
don
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Still very sore but bored stiff I went to the shop today and began working on the distributor for Das Auto's slant six. The motor is already done awaiting install but I may as well do this and install it as it will be hard to reach afterwards. I shorten the curve slot by 1/3 which allows me more initial but less total advance which is what these engines love. Spent about 1/2 hour working at my bench then welding up the slot. That was enough for today but progress none the less.
don
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I am poking away at the gasser as I recover. Motor and dist are done. I have also been going through some of my old stuff from the sr dragster. I found two old videos from the first day I ran it. I don't know who took them and they are not great but made me grin again. They are FLV format and I don't know how to convert them for current use but this laptop will play them under protest. The first two years I ran it with 6 snowmobile carbs and it worked quite well. However I had to prime to fire just like fuel injection as I had removed the chokes. Often when I needed a prime my crew would be off visiting and I would have to undo and climb out squirt then get back in so I took them off BUTwhen I saw Glenn's setup for priming his injection I realized I could do that easily as well. In fact three of the carbs have hose nipples on the base and would do a fine job priming. Once it kicks it takes care of itself. Three carbs was all I ever squirted anyway. And so today I decided to install the six tillotsons on the gasser providing there is enough room. An IR setup has some very distinct low rpm advantages as there is no inter cyl fuel dilution and so low RPM idle and response is exceptional. Much better then a 4bbl or tunnel ram. I dug through my spare parts box and discovered I still had the first fuel pump I used with this setup. In fact it was the whole motivation behind the slant six project in the first place. I had wanted to try the six snowmobile carbs. It was on my bucket list. Hopefully since I drained them well they will not need any work even though they have been hanging up for about 5 or 6 years. I am starting to get excited! Here we go AGAIN!
don
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I found TDC and installed the distributor then found a fuel pump gasket and installed the stock fuel pump I used with the six Tillotsons.
Little trick for finding TDC comp.
First always write your engines firing order on the shop wall and write it with the split.
1843
6572
So you know what cylinder is on the opposite stroke.
For me with the six
153
624
so if 1 is on comp then 6 is on overlap.
To find which one is on comp, put a hose snuggly in the spark plug holes 1, then 6 and blow in each one. One will have no resistance and one will build pressure and that one is the one on compression. Crude, simplistic? Sure. Effective? Absolutley!