FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Drag Racing Discussions => Front Engine Dragsters => Topic started by: SaltandPepper on January 12, 2018, 04:49:01 PM
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Hi, The wife and I have recently purchased a slingshot and are looking for a forum that will give us some guidance in getting this thing on the strip safely just for fun on a Friday night....we do not plan to compete. I would not have bought such a machine but it came at a giveaway price.....all I had to do was drive from Maryland to Texas to get it. First, a little history about me...I have been an RN for 25 years but was a motorcycle mechanic for 10 years prior. In my early 20s I use to race a bike on the strip with my fastest time of 10.0 at 150mph. I have been out of the scene for many years now but would like to play around on the strip for self entertainment. Now at the age of 52 I am too old to climb back on a bike but a sit down ride I think I can do. The big difference between then and now is that now I have the money to spend. My wife and I are a team together and since she is African American at 4'11" and I am Caucasian at 6'3.....hence the name Salt&Pepper which we will rename the car. Did I mention we only live 4 miles from Cecil County Dragway in Maryland? We have a full 3000sf mechanics shop and am building a 1500sf body and paint shop at this time. We are looking for information as to maintenance, tuning, and safely beginning our adventure. I hope I have chosen the right forum. Below are pics of the slingshot we just bought as well as a corvette I built and painted myself that shows I have some skills......thanks, John&Sheron.
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Welcome to the forum, you will find plenty of help here.
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Welcome!!!
Is car set up for gas or alky?
This site is the best I am in North Carolina If you have never made a pass in a FED some basics you need to know before that first run call me anytime with questions 704 244 6649
get it running--fluids right--tank not too full and sloshing out overflow--make sure NO antifreeze only water if it has cooling system--inflate rear slicks to say 7-8 lbs and wrap the exact center with a cloth measuring tape or a special tire tape and check diameter with both at Exact same pressure not the diff if any they need to be very close
Use all info from seller that you have about what RPM to leave at wheelie bar height etc
Get the right safety gear--SFI 15 suits are very expensive Biondo in NJ has best inventory and deals If cock pit has trans covered etc you may be able to run with a plain two layer suit--Lots less expensive again Biondo has best selection in stock and will exchange at once if wrong size shipped
and....about a dozen other things before that first run but hey call and we will help and this site is FULL of guys that have been at it longer than me--lots of know how here
being safe is #1 going fast is way down the list to start with
Congrats!!! and after you make that first pass you can play Salt N Peppa "what a man" on your music deal LOL
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Excellent. ..thank you, I have a ton of questions due to the fact that the owner did 10 passes on a fresh engine then found out he had cancer and passed away. I bought this from the son liquidating the estate so I got no info other than how to start it. Runs gas and I know I will have to do an extensive teardown to inspect brakes, fluids, joints, ect even before I race. I will consider 2018 as a year of schooling. I just need some good teachers. Monday I will start posting my first questions and pics....again, thank you.
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just seen the add on RJ, you got a good deal. welcome to the club. lot of intelligent people here that have been doing this for years. im learning all the time here. its a great group of people.
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Wow, I never knew he had it advertised in RJ, I bought it threw ebay and if you take the asking price on RJ an cut it in half....that is what I gave for it....like I said, I couldn't pass that one up.
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Great score John and Sheron! I have a lot of door slammer experience but have yet to make a pass in a FED myself. This is a great sight with a lot of knowledge to go around!
I love the Vette! The color is bad a$$! That is a 70s street machine from xxxx and I love the 70s! Good luck!
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you are going to have fun here AND we are willing to help you spend that $$$. --no need to thank anyone. just sayin.
as for me, I have (built) a 150" Ex Jim Davis FED I got only a few usable pieces so I had to do a 98% rebuild) I am to old (and broke) to compete at 76- but I really enjoy taking it to the cackle fests. it has a 1957 Chrysler @ 398 CID on 85% nitro and it seems to love it. I will point out I bought a lot of used parts in this build and had to throw them away- it was cheaper in the end to buy all new, from nitro stripped blower to rods and pistons. even though it is "only" a cacklecar I built the the engine as I would to race. I believe when running a nitro engine the best parts are just good enough. cacklefests are also a lot less stress AND we can enjoy liquid libations while at it-a win win.
I should point out you are just a kid when in your 50's so that "to old to drive" won't fly here. a big welcome from bitter cold Missouri. Geri
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I did not catch the "to old" comment, I'm 67 and am making the move to a 7.0 index this year.
Just moved the dragster into the garage to do the engine swap (as far as being cold was 0 here last night with wind chill at -25).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QaiexB-uaZg&list=PLCygmy1ErMthsLzG_jWBEt8iqd4rYh7MQ
I have started to make YouTube videos, you guys could help my status on YouTube a lot by liking and subscribing to my videos.
Glenn
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I also started late at 60 something(I forget). but I has a concussion 2 1/2 yrs ago and a major affect on me is now being claustrophobic suited up. thankfully my son loves driving it. he did a BIG wheelie back in may and we had to replace the first 4ft of chassis.
we run a buick 350 with a 4-71 on it. so far 9.2 @ 145. not bad with nothing. the buick guys rent cecil in mid sept for fri-sat. stop by and say hi.
john
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Well not only am I feeling pretty good about this forum but also about my age.....guess I can consider that a bonus, lol. I will try to search the archives for answers so that I do not ask the same questions that have been hashed a hundred times but if my questions seem trivial or first grade basic please remember I acquired this FED with no info. I will try to post pics where I can, thanks in advance.
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Some times the search function on a forum does not work as well as you would like. If you do a google search and include "frontenginedragster" that search might would better than the forum search. Just a little trick that might help.
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Okay, First off Welcome! I love the Salt and Pepper name. As for driving a front engine car there is nothing like it. What a blast! It is almost better than... Well it is is pretty good. I would set the wheelie bar down fairly low where the front can only come up 6 to 12 inches total. You can jack front of car up to set wheelie bar.
Tire pressure is pretty critical for going straight, when you are under full power most if not all weight is on rear wheels.
As for driving it first time be on your toes in case it does anything stupid. Get a good burnout first time to get tires fresh. With a car like this you really can not tell how it is going to do if you just drive it off. You have to hit it hard and get the weight transferred to know how it is going to work.
If you get a fuel leak shut it off, if it spins get out of it, if it goes left or right get out of it.
I highly recommend you have a diaper on the car BEFORE you ever run it. At some point in your racing career you will lose a motor. with a diaper it is not much of a problem. With out you may total the car and could get seriously injured. I do not think any car with slicks should go down the track with out a diaper or a pan. I have seen many bad crashes that could have been avoided if they had one.
I am currently driving a 125" altered but my 225 inch Front Engine Dragster will be complete in a few months and then I move over to it.
Also just read all you can on old posts in this forum, you can learn so much here about how to make it hook and go straight.
Good Luck with it and let us know how you do.
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DRE Dennis Ridgeway diaper is the best--fits like a glove--easy as pie on and off --ballistic cloth--about $300
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Like Glenn I'm 67 and I hope to have this one out in a few months. I quit racing in 99 and I couldn't wait any longer to get back into it. I've helped other people all that time so you being 52 gives you lots of time to enjoy it.
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Welcome to this board.
Fist you need to join NHRA (National Hot Rod Association) and Get the rule book. Even though you are planning
on a fun trip, you need to play by the rules for everyone’s safety. Also it will help you learn to “talk the talk.” LOL
Your car most likely will require an inspection by an NHRA inspector. He will look for safety items on the chassis and point out any changes you have to make. Just looking at the picture it looks pretty up to date so depending on how quick and fast you plan to go will determine the level of inspection. It will also help you pick the level of personal safety equipment required.
Next I’d take the car to a CAT scale and have it weighed. Most likely this scale won’t give you a front and rear weights but total is what you are looking for. You can weigh the front on a home scale.
I’d use a digital camera or iPad and take pictures of everything as it is. You can’t have too many pictures. I don’t like iPhone pictures for reference but if you are comfortable with it, ok.
Now you need to get mechanical. Star by removing the motor and transmission. Mount the motor on an engine stand. Pictures, pictures. Take the motor apart recording everything. Look for numbers and identification of everything. Even bolts and studs. ARP is a very well know manufacture of hotrod fasteners. Some items have rule book quality specifications. Grade 8 bolts for example. Some parts will have SFI tags, do not destroy or remove these. You have to have these parts certified periodically.
The trans can probably be left alon for now. It will have a blanket and or shield as well as the belhousing. The flex plate and converter will also have tags so be careful of these.
You need to determine the cubic inches of the motor, compression ratio, camshaft brand and specifications. Cam specs are usually located on the ends of the cam. Be sure to keep the lifter in positional order. Pictures, pictures.
Cylinder heads need to be checked for condition, valves, springs, rocker arms, pushrod guide plates and pushrods.
In short every detail. This will help the tuners here guide you on preparing the motor.
Try to keep everything clean as you go.
Then you can go over the rest of the car. It looks nice so I’d guess it’s been well done. My rule is all fasteners need to be grade 8 or better. Washers on all rod ends, nylon nuts on most everything.
You probably will want a tool tray. Most guys either build one or purchase something. Any special tools are always stored in the tool tray and not used for fixing the kitchen sink. LOL They are race car tools only even if you could use them on your streetrod....it gets its own special tools. For example I have 6 sparkplug sockets 4 are custom modified 2 are standard but different length for my two Streetrods, they reside in their respective cars. I have two more in my general tool box.
For now this is enough. Others can help out too. I’d catalog the pictures for easy reference.
Byron
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Welcome to the forum, you will find plenty of help here.
if I can help call me Mike 615-457-3192 Alkydigger.com
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Good to see you here.