FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Technical => Roo Man's Room => Topic started by: Countn Carbs on February 23, 2017, 01:53:03 PM
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Roo - I'm curious what you (or others) recommend for an anti-rotation bracket set up on a 57-64 olds rearend. What you've done, anything available off the shelf...etc...
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Back when the magnezium cases were around, they had a flange at the front that was used , but with the stock case, you can weld 2 tabs to the bottom of the RE housing and come up off the bottom of the chassis.
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I gotcha...so maybe like a couple of 3/16" thick tabs for a 7/16 grade 8 bolt - or something along those lines?
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Here you go buy this set up it has a bolt pattern on the front to add the anti rotation plate
https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/5968963019.html
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That early Olds housing will not take abuse of current tires and sticky tracks
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I gotcha...so maybe like a couple of 3/16" thick tabs for a 7/16 grade 8 bolt - or something along those lines?
You are on the right track mate! The NT/F spec calls for a pair of .875 x .058 tubes that can be either welded or bolted to the frame with at least two Grade 5 or better 3/8 bolts. The tubes can come together and be bolted to the rear axle housing with a single Grade 5 or better 3/8 bolt in double shear or with a pair of the same in single shear.
Roo
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Here you go buy this set up it has a bolt pattern on the front to add the anti rotation plate
https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/5968963019.html
Paul,
that rear end is the early small Olds so it would not have fitted anyway.
Roo
ps The seller is Earl Floyd who has quite a history in the sport, check the 4th paragraph:
http://cacklefest.com/Northwind.shtml
We had an interesting chat just now when I purchased the parts--thanks for the lead.
Roo
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Here you go buy this set up it has a bolt pattern on the front to add the anti rotation plate
https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/5968963019.html
Paul,
that rear end is the early small Olds so it would not have fitted anyway.
Roo
ps The seller is Earl Floyd who has quite a history in the sport, check the 4th paragraph:
http://cacklefest.com/Northwind.shtml
We had an interesting chat just now when I purchased the parts--thanks for the lead.
Roo
I knew it was in Earls collection he has some cool old stuff! I do not know any thing about the early Olds stuff but knew someone needs it!
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I have the rearend tack welded in the car now at the preferred ride height but i only have about a half inch from the bottom of the rearend housing to the bottom of the chassis. I hate to move the rearend up higher in the car if I don't have to.
Any ideas with only having a small area under the car to deal with? Or just make the brackets and if it hangs down no big deal??? As long as it's not below the scrub line?
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What are you doing???? ???
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I hope you are going to weld a tube in front of the mount plates. They need to be welded completely on one side and skip welded 1" skip welds on the other.
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Kinda looks like you have the whole drivetrain mounted too low in the chassis?
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I hope you are going to weld a tube in front of the mount plates. They need to be welded completely on one side and skip welded 1" skip welds on the other.
Yeah sorry - I should have clarified this and thank you for the advice. I still have to fit/cope them but the plan is for 1.500 O.D vertical tubes (.125" wall) with the mounting plates then welded like you described. I just tacked this in to see what I was going to do for anti-rotation set up.
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Kinda looks like you have the whole drivetrain mounted too low in the chassis?
I agree. As it sits now it appears that you will have something like 9" or 10" of ground clearance with any sort of reasonable tire diameter.
Roo
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What will the kidney bars look like?
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Kinda looks like you have the whole drivetrain mounted too low in the chassis?
I agree. As it sits now it appears that you will have something like 9" or 10" of ground clearance with any sort of reasonable tire diameter.
Roo
Thanks Guys - Slick diameter is 28.5" and when I had it mocked up and sitting on the ground I had about 6" of ground clearance. I could move everything up in the chassis a bit which would help keep the anti-rotation tabs up.
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What will the kidney bars look like?
Planning on the same tubing (1.500" OD x .125" wall) and its' looking like 3 per side and a couple in the back with a center pipe tying them together horizontally. I've been keeping the lead tech inspector at Bandimere in the loop on this as well. We'll be running in Vintage class and need to keep the car slower than an 11.50.