16
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: K-88 / 6 Cylinder
« on: May 06, 2019, 09:50:31 AM »
As suggested here is the new mount for the pitman arm shaft. Moved it out under the top rail with a pillow block.
FEDs Forever!
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17
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: K-88 / 6 Cylinder
« on: May 06, 2019, 09:40:47 AM »
Thanks Denverflatheader - glad you're enjoying it and and thank you for following along. The "slow and well though out" piece is merely due to cash....took me a couple of years to save up for the Fabcraft third member and glad I did it.
Yeah the 302 GMC is a 4"x4" (bore x stroke) makes for a bunch of low end torque like you mentioned.....looking forward to that combination coupled with that 12 port head.
Frenchtown Flyer - I'm looking forward to doing that very thing!! Can't wait!!
Yeah the 302 GMC is a 4"x4" (bore x stroke) makes for a bunch of low end torque like you mentioned.....looking forward to that combination coupled with that 12 port head.
Frenchtown Flyer - I'm looking forward to doing that very thing!! Can't wait!!
21
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: K-88 / 6 Cylinder
« on: April 29, 2019, 07:37:24 AM »
Many Chassis Research cars just left the main rails open but I decided to cap the ends.
22
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: K-88 / 6 Cylinder
« on: April 29, 2019, 07:35:46 AM »
Doctor said I needed more magnesium.....I'm cool with that.
24
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: K-88 / 6 Cylinder
« on: April 29, 2019, 07:27:17 AM »
I'm having a spacer block made to move the steering box mount out under the upper bar (as suggested) as well as fabbing up a diagonal mount for the steering box as suggested.
I also starting figuring out a fuel shutoff, pump, filter, reg, etc...set up.
I also starting figuring out a fuel shutoff, pump, filter, reg, etc...set up.
25
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: K-88 / 6 Cylinder
« on: April 29, 2019, 07:23:11 AM »
Felt good to get the car back on the ground...
28
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: K-88 / 6 Cylinder
« on: April 29, 2019, 07:20:01 AM »
Been making progress on the dragster but it's been a bunch of little stuff. Anti-Rotation bracket is done, added an extra return spring for the brake handle, throttle linkage and pedal are done...etc.
I was finally able to pull the trigger on a new third member from Fabcraft for the Olds rearend and I couldn't be happier. With that installed in the car I'm now able to finalize my mid-plate mounts and shimming the mid-plate for optimum coupler alignment.
I was finally able to pull the trigger on a new third member from Fabcraft for the Olds rearend and I couldn't be happier. With that installed in the car I'm now able to finalize my mid-plate mounts and shimming the mid-plate for optimum coupler alignment.
29
Roo Man's Room / Re: Rearend Upright Strap Thickness Requirement
« on: December 19, 2018, 11:22:46 AM »
Countin,
I see by your avatar car you are constructing a FED with a vintage inline six. While the SFI spec may call out 1/4" 4130 plates I think that in your specific case you could logically argue that the the 3/16" plates will more than suffice for the power you are capable of transmitting to the rear end. A good alternative to cutting off the existing plates and welding new - which would induce warpage into the rear housing - might be to weld localized reinforcements (i.e., washers)around the plate mounting holes. If at such time as you decide to install a blown hemi you could consider a further upgrade to the housing.
I'd feel perfectly safe with 3/16" plates.
Thanks FF - yeah the rearend plates are indeed 1/4" - it's the uprights that are 3/16" so it looks/reads like we're good. Yeah you're right...just a little inline 6 with not much power but plan to run it monthly in our Vintage Drag Racing club.
Also - great article you wrote in this months 12 Port News!! Looks like an awesome little project and looking forward to seeing more about it in future issues.
I see by your avatar car you are constructing a FED with a vintage inline six. While the SFI spec may call out 1/4" 4130 plates I think that in your specific case you could logically argue that the the 3/16" plates will more than suffice for the power you are capable of transmitting to the rear end. A good alternative to cutting off the existing plates and welding new - which would induce warpage into the rear housing - might be to weld localized reinforcements (i.e., washers)around the plate mounting holes. If at such time as you decide to install a blown hemi you could consider a further upgrade to the housing.
I'd feel perfectly safe with 3/16" plates.
Thanks FF - yeah the rearend plates are indeed 1/4" - it's the uprights that are 3/16" so it looks/reads like we're good. Yeah you're right...just a little inline 6 with not much power but plan to run it monthly in our Vintage Drag Racing club.
Also - great article you wrote in this months 12 Port News!! Looks like an awesome little project and looking forward to seeing more about it in future issues.
30
Roo Man's Room / Re: Rearend Upright Strap Thickness Requirement
« on: December 19, 2018, 11:16:04 AM »
Regarding this part of the spec: " Single plates must be
fully welded to the rear end uprights (#8) and to the upper (#4) and
lower (#16 & #17) frame rails on one side of each plate with 1/4"
(6.4mm) minimum wrap around the upper (#4) and lower (#16 & #17)
frame rails. The other side must be welded with one (1) inch (25.4mm)
minimum skip welds. Double plates must be fully welded to the rear
end uprights (#8) and to the upper (#4) and lower (#16 & #17) frame
rails on one side of each plate with 1/4" (6.4mm) minimum wrap
around the upper (#4) and lower (#16 & #17) frame rails." the 1/4" wrap refers to the weld and not the mounting plate. That may sound pretty basic but I know of an instance of an NHRA tech inspector telling a builder that the plate had to be wrapped around the tube. As Larry Morgan noted in one of his clashes with the NHRA, "You can't fix stupid"
Roo
Thanks Roo - this section did actually cause some confusion when I read that..
fully welded to the rear end uprights (#8) and to the upper (#4) and
lower (#16 & #17) frame rails on one side of each plate with 1/4"
(6.4mm) minimum wrap around the upper (#4) and lower (#16 & #17)
frame rails. The other side must be welded with one (1) inch (25.4mm)
minimum skip welds. Double plates must be fully welded to the rear
end uprights (#8) and to the upper (#4) and lower (#16 & #17) frame
rails on one side of each plate with 1/4" (6.4mm) minimum wrap
around the upper (#4) and lower (#16 & #17) frame rails." the 1/4" wrap refers to the weld and not the mounting plate. That may sound pretty basic but I know of an instance of an NHRA tech inspector telling a builder that the plate had to be wrapped around the tube. As Larry Morgan noted in one of his clashes with the NHRA, "You can't fix stupid"
Roo
Thanks Roo - this section did actually cause some confusion when I read that..