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Messages - noslin

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31
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: new experiences - my 225" fed
« on: March 13, 2019, 04:18:15 PM »
now that im home and thinking about this a bit more even though im still pissed at the jerk.   my bottles stick out 4" max past the nose/end of the chassis.  legally i think your allowed up to 30" past the spindle center line.  the bitching is to the wheel but we will stick with what is legal per nhra.  if your ride doesnt fit it, thats your problem as noted.

200mph / 60 min/hr = 3.33 ft/second
3.33 ft /sec  / 60sec/min = .055 feet/sec
.055 ft/sec    / 60 = .0009ft /tenth of sec
.0009 ft / 60 = .000015 ft / hundredths.

since were assuming both cars are perfect like Bruce then it would probably come down to 'x' hundredths of a second difference.   since the distance is .000015ft and were talking about 4" the distance is really .000006 ft.. you guys are really going to bitch about that!   seriously?

as stated before, aside from Bruce being perfect.. how many races has anyone seen where the drivers have the same reaction time, same et, and same mph?   if you did how many runs have you watched in your life to see that happen?

we worked hard to get the car out to the track and you have to first insinuate this was done for an advantage and second you have to just kick a guy in the balls with this kind of BS.   just flippin ridiculous.
.

32
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: new experiences - my 225" fed
« on: March 13, 2019, 10:05:31 AM »
Bruce, this just eats at me but it seems it's your nature to be Mr perfect and hall monitor. I've never even been in a few down the track untill Saturday.  It just amazes me that your concerned about some guy who is new to this type of racing. I would be lucky to win a round the first year out or even a race. 

Aside from that, it's the implication that I put them out there to gain an advantage.  I did it for weight as I figured it would need some. The other thing too is at 200 mph at the finish line between two cars your taking greater the .0009 feet in.001 seconds..  How many index races have you been involved in where both left exactly the same and ended exaclty the same.  I think this is a very very very ,.......... Very...  Rare occurrence. Maybe one in a thousand or more as a guess? . 

Times are changing, even though this is nostalgia race the cars evolve with time.  If you don't like the direction then change your car or maybe this isn't for you anymore.  I get you guys have a minimal setup but that's your decision. Just because the design of the cars have changed to what you view is not necessarily representative of the 60s isn't mine or anyone else's problem, it's yours.   


33
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: new experiences - my 225" fed
« on: March 12, 2019, 06:26:40 PM »
to be frank, you usually are.  ill only race two of those races and maybe one or two at sac for heritage.  if i get popped ill know who to thank are most jerks (whiners) are the ones to snitch.... Ill be more then happy to stay at home and race the local nostalgia races where they dont care about that crap. also, if it was really a concern i think ken would of been nice enough to notify me when he was AT MY HOUSE teching my car and also in the pits when i asked him a question.  Again, if its an issue it will be because SOMEONE BITCHED.... time will tell what jerk will bitch.

34
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: new experiences - my 225" fed
« on: March 03, 2019, 09:38:47 PM »
well, i scrapped the seat.  ill do another one down the road.  i know now that 25lb system is toooooo much.  the 15lb would of worked fine.  the material had no place to go.

anyways, we got the motor in and running.  our push is to make march meet which we are taking the fed but have few little things to work through.  one is, i didnt put the convertor in all the way.  motor is running, wheels are not spinning.  after speaking to few ppl thats the consensus.  everything is brand new and so it make sense.  will pull the trans back wenday and see or make the convertor go in  and should be good (i hope haha)

one of the great things about going to an event like this is all the knowledge that is available. that in itself is worth the trip.  My buddy jeff is the motor head (his motor) and he is making very good contacts and getting help from some great people.   weve both had great help along the way and really appreciate every bit of it and the people offering it.

anyways, enough jibber jabber.   here it is getting loaded.  i can get the fed and the cart in no problem in 28' trailer with 26' on the deck (cabinets)








35
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: new experiences - my 225" fed
« on: February 17, 2019, 05:08:15 PM »
I like your fire bottle mounts looks like a good way to keep weight on the front ! Car looks great !

thank you sir.  i think once i get the rest of the body done it will look a lot better. I really like the looks of a full body.

so today finally getting around to doing a creaform pour in seat.  one thing i like about the creaform is you have plenty of time to play with it and conform it.  when i purchased the kit from Pegasus Auto Racing i didnt know what size to get so i got the large.  I can say that is to much as you can see in the pics there is a lot of excess.  i would probably get the one that uses the largest bag but not so much material.  which i think is the large from them.  when i got the kit, it comes from Bald Spot Sportshttps://www.baldspotsports.com/.  I would of purchased from them if i had done a little bit better research.  looking at BSS website you can see they do pro drag racing seats and they have a few vids online which shows pretty much how it goes.

so, initial after watching videos, purchasing a vac pump, gauge etc i did went about things as they show.   one thing off the bat i think i would do differently is heat up the resin and catalyst more.  its been in the house so about 70 deg.  it was pretty thick when went to go mix it.  it did not appear like it does in the vids. 

i mixed it up for few minutes to where i thought it was mixed well as could be then poured in.  it went right to the bottom of the bag and kind of clumped there.  i htink if was warmer and thinner it would of dispersed better.   i started to push and mix and really doesnt feel like anything is happening with the liquid interacting with the beads so that parts an unknown.  i did this about ten minutes as instructions say. 

i laid out the bag, taped the end, and then tried to even in it out thorughout the bag.  in the back of my mind i was concerned about the lower lumbar area and i think got to much or made it too thick through the torso area.   

went to stick it in the car and as you can see in the photos way too much material.  i jumped in real quick to kind pre-mold the seat then got dressed and jumped back in.  My buddy Jeff was helping me as this isnt really a one person job.  he pushed and needed around areas but in the end i think there is too much back up around the shoulder areas.  one problem is there is just too much material to deal with.  so, im hoping for one the resin did get everywhere and second ill be able to mold or sand a little bit tomorrow when i go to take it out and trim etc. 

so for now here is a couple of pics.  one thing, in the instructions they say 2lbs vac and i dont think the HF pump is pulling that;  but it is pulling a vacuum.  im not to confident right not that it will turn out ok but if this doesnt turn out ok ill get a smaller kit...  I wont use the fabric till it fits nice.  the other thing to note is, when your sitting in the seat without your suit on or any padding you kind of sit way down in there.  when you do the pour in seat, its amazing what one inch up and forward does for cockpit space. 

ill report back in a few days progress on how it turned out.



They say to smooth out the wrinkles.  i tried a little bit then said screw it.  i get to messin with things and ill mess it up more if thats the case.  i know a lot of that will be cut out. 




36
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: how much weight are you adding 225"
« on: February 09, 2019, 07:57:24 PM »
My opinion here. The longer the wheelbase (Lever) the lighter the front needs to be.  The more horsepower the heavier it needs to be. Bottom line it it is a balancing job to get it right and if there is too much up front car will not work. IMHO.
My car is 225 inches with 760 Hp, 1730 with 389 up front.  Did not work very good. So I am moving weight and making other major changes. I believe on my car it needs to carry front tires out a ways to keep rear tires planted. Right now it pops them up drops them back down and unloads rear tires. Also I am thinking on this car a stiff sidewall tire may help this chassis work better. My goal is to get it to hook good on any track. Now 300 does not sound like much weight and it is not but look at how long the chassis is and that works like a long lever.

I think on my car with my horsepower it really needs to be around 300 LBS up front.  Once I get it right then probably 10 LBS over front wheels would make a difference.

Do you even know what the static weight is up front?  Where is battery located? Fuel cell? How big is it? With a 225 inch car I would shoot for 300-320 up front as a starting point.

Nobody can answer how much weight to add if we do not know what the static weight is.

thank you for the reply, i have not weighed it yet.  ill see if i can locate some scales locally and do that first. fuel cell is 6 gal i think, its about 30" back of front axle.  battery weighs 2lbs, 10oz co2 bottle weighs prob 5lbs.  thinking about it, i dont have spoke wheels so im guessing teh welds are probably twice as heavy as spokes and also the fire bottles are in front of front axle and im guessing 30lbs between those two items.   

Thank you
dean

37
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: new experiences - my 225" fed
« on: February 09, 2019, 05:01:26 PM »
here is a better pic of the rear run stand. 


I made some lead bars this morning.  i work for a roofing company so was able to repurpose some flashing lead of tile roof. some of them are little tapered but i can re-pour them down the road if need be.  i dont know how much lead ill have to add so i made 70 lbs im guessing.  the mold by my calcs was 10lbs each bar.  i dont have a scale so ill have a freind weigh them. im guessing ill have to have at least 70lbs up front.  the two fire bottles im guessing weigh about 15lbs each?   the chassis is narrow up front so i might have to make them longer to get more weight if need be. 

wasnt really too bad doing the molds, used the burner at work that they use for soldering with and then got some map gas and put on the top side. once it melts, whatever you stick in goes pretty quick.  had to skim off the old paint from the flashing lead.  was kind of fun actually once i figured it out.











38
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: new experiences - my 225" fed
« on: February 09, 2019, 04:25:42 PM »
My buddy Jeff (its his motor) goes to put on the coil plug wire on the coil and the end broke off.  so he had to order another coil.  even though it hurts financially right now as we are both scraping to get it running its probably a good thing it happened. 

so he gets a new coil and i needed to make another mount.  the coil uses spades instead of o-ring connectors. I dont really dig the spades. sence there are a few wires going to the coil and not having an isolated post i figured i would use some plastic sheet i have laying around and sort of make one.  If this doesnt work ill break down and get some from vtec





here is pic of the motor, just need to put the blow-down vents on and few misc other things. 



i had to roll it out and put the vw in the back part of the garage.  i have to do some work on the vw so fig id put it in the back so make it easier to deal with the fed.



The chassis builder has to make me another fuel tank.  then i want to put a full body on it.  so that will be my task over the summer and maybe see about paint next year.  been thinking about what type profile nose to make for it.  eventually i would like to stick front wing on it and of course canards.

I have the stuff to do creaform pour-in seat. with any luck we will do that tomorrow.  Next week ill order some new skins for the back. I think im going to get the new Hoosier 33-15 x 15 stiff sidewall and see how that works.

39
Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: new experiences - my 225" fed
« on: February 09, 2019, 04:12:14 PM »
ok, been awhile since posting progress.  long story short, where about 98% ready.  will start the motor this week sometimes, maybe make shake down runs next sat to get our feet wet then hit it harder the next weekend and see if we can get advanced et lic passes in so we can run 7.0 at march meet.

ill just post bunch of pics.  i did what i thought was correct but things can always be changed and some things probably will once we get some time in.

i attempted to do rear engine run stand and it did not turn out well.  so months later i tried again and it came out ok.  prob an inch or two narrower then id like but i hope it wil work ok.  eventually ill get some pro jacks.  i need to make couple plugs for the ends for the 1/2" pins to go into.  right now i put washers on each end thinking it would be ok.. but its not hahaha. 



so, im frugal (cheap).. i made a shift and oil light out of trailer marker lights.  i did this on my door car.  this is 9 LED light, it might not be bright enough but will see.  I have looked a little bit online at say 1157/1156 size bulbs and there are some out there. ill find another LED bulb that is bright and make some smaller diameter ones.  i probably have 10 bucks into each one.  they are 2" so a little big on OD.   I made the gauge pod and just painted it.  it wasnt really polishable and i was impatient making it to spend the time to sand and try to polish it.  i can get it powder coated down the road. 










40
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: how much weight are you adding 225"
« on: February 09, 2019, 11:51:53 AM »
ok, to not be so specific. 

  • how much weight did you add,
  • length of your fed
  • how far out the motor
  • blown or inj
  • big block, or small block



ty
dean

41
Spud Miller's Cave / Re: FIE Tech Reference Library
« on: February 04, 2019, 07:48:51 PM »
your awesome, thank you.

42
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: AFR system...
« on: February 04, 2019, 07:47:11 PM »
here is a great site to get info on 02 sensors etc.   the AEM products are great and have used them many times.  in short your n20 controller is just receiving a signal.  the O2 needs a 'controller' to heat and maintain a specific temp regardless of whos system you use.   innovate  LC2 is a good unit too.  .  upside on innovate is if you want to log other things you can do that with thier system by adding on the SSI-4 or pocket logger.  if you want to log other things with AEm then you need AQ1 or their dash.  watch out on AEMnet gauge's if wanting to use Canbus.. some are still analogue.. ran across this helping a buddy out on his ride with the AEM EMS-4.  i can tell you more about this if interested, some units are limited to what  they will read on canbus with their (aem) own products. but both good and both economically priced. you dont have to buy 250 dollar sensors. you can use off the shelf stuff and run a few wires.

https://wbo2.com/lsu/lsuworks.htm

Quote
The job of the controller is to maintain the diffusion chamber's temperature within close limits and to control the mixture there at stoich by pumping more or less Ip current, and by changing the direction of Ip when the mixture changes between lean and rich. A precise measurement of Ip is made to calculate the Lambda of the mixture by using a look-up table

Quote
For the controller to work at all, the sensor element must be heated to the correct operational temperature where oxygen ions can sustain the necessary catalytic reactions. The sensor temperature is maintained at the optimal operating temperature by measuring the impedance (electrical resistance) of either the pump cell or the Vs sense cell.

Dean

43
Drag Racing / Re: mask/breathing apparatice - warmup
« on: January 27, 2019, 08:16:54 AM »
3m makes a really nice full face mask, and get the organic vapor filters for it. yes its alittle pricey, but the mask should last years, and the filters should also.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Facepiece-Reusable-Respirator-54159-x/dp/B007JZ1M10/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1548555242&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=3m+full+face+respirator&psc=1

thank you, looks like it might work with glasses too after reading reviews. 

44
Drag Racing / Re: mask/breathing apparatice - warmup
« on: January 26, 2019, 04:36:06 PM »
Breathing apprentices are hard to find. Thinking apprentices even more so. Those that will show up to work are exceedingly rare these days. And those that are literate and can spell? Practically nonexistent. Evidently.

vary goode :P  did not catch that, dig the huemer :D

Quote
Wouldn't a commonly available painter's mask apparatus with replaceable screw-on carbon canister cartridges work? Like the ones used when painting catalyzed paint?

they would, just seeing if anyone had lesser expensive units they were using.  I looked on ebay and there are units on there for i guess a decent price. ill just pop for one and see how it works. 

45
Front Engine Dragsters / Re: NOS fuel install...
« on: January 26, 2019, 04:29:17 PM »
Perfect GROUNDS are a must! make sure that all wiring is soldiered and shrink wrapped--grounds must be perfect and reliable or you will have issues

100% what Duster Dave said, people overlook this and its the crux of a lot of issues people will have.  also, do not ground to the chassis.. you need floating grounds (and power) directly from the battery.

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