FrontEngineDragsters.Org Forum
Drag Racing Discussions => Front Engine Dragsters => Topic started by: arush on December 20, 2016, 12:57:17 PM
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I am in the process of building a 5' (three bar) wheelie bar.
(1) Are you guys using Heim's or Clevis' for the top mounts ?
(2) How is the best way to find the dead center of my frame, 5' back on the floor?
Measure straight off of the face of each disk, then split the difference ?
Find the middle of the motor plate, then use a square and a string ?
I appreciate all feedback.
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I have a 200 inch car and went with 48 inch 3 bar all the builders say use longer but hey this works
Best place to start is with the bar/sideplate/ wheel assembly from Neil & Parks for about $125 and..they have all the CM tabs etc you may need
I used clevis ends on the top bars and tabs on the chassis with push pins
rigid top bar clevis at the chassis and a heim at the lower bar
use a clevis and tab at the chassis on lower bar
This way you can measure and eyeball it and you always have fine tune with heims on ends of top bars--they work well for any left right you need
Always measure from the axle flange or brake rotor
I found out the hard way that adjustment holes in lower bar must be drilled with precision and tight when you slide pushpin in any slop and the wheel can move ever so slightly and it will effect things
I redrilled mine after car was not the same every pass--it solved my issues---I adjust the heims and get everything close as possible with good tape measure like within a 32nd or maybe 16th best I can do
It seems to stay even when dragging it around bumping it pretty hard etc
I can't seem to post pix on this site they want zero pixels to load and even on basic etc settings on my camera I just can't do it--so email me dusterdave173@gmail and I will send pix if you want
there have been some nice set ups posted here before but no need to over build them yea longer is better yadda yadda but my 48 incers work perfect a smooth pass is all about many things like wheelie bar ht, leave RPM, tire pressure, weight up front--it is the combo of these things that has to be worked out for your car/converter combo
once you get there you wind up adding more power and back to the drawing board LOL!
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well 48 inch works on my weak car--big power may be another kettle of fish I am sure Roo and Bruce and others here have better advice
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Dave.
I bought a 5' kit from Dragster Supply and it came with Clevis' for the top mounts.
I didn't know if there were any other advantages to using a Heim beside the ability to adjust the bars from side to side ?
If you have the bars set dead center from the beginning is it really necessary to have that side to side adjustment ?
I will also be using the push pins.
Would the bars be easier to install and remove with a Heim ?
I just want to do it right the first time. Thanks
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Really easy to install and take off with clevis at all 3 points on car and push pins
the heims at the bottom allow plenty of side to side to center things
clevis and tabs keep slop to a minimum very important--shoot me an email and I will send plenty of pics
also when I take mine off I can store easy in trailer will send pix of that as well
yea 5 ft is cool mine might have even worked better longer but...
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Dave.
I bought a 5' kit from Dragster Supply and it came with Clevis' for the top mounts.
I didn't know if there were any other advantages to using a Heim beside the ability to adjust the bars from side to side ?
If you have the bars set dead center from the beginning is it really necessary to have that side to side adjustment ?
I will also be using the push pins.
Would the bars be easier to install and remove with a Heim ?
I just want to do it right the first time. Thanks
My car needed the bar an inch or so to the left. Otherwise it would take a quick right turn.
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Heims seem to be the way to go, just in case I do need the added adjustments.
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mine is 5 1/2' long used clevis on top and botton with two piece bottom which allows adjustment at wheel end.Pinned two piece in lower bar so i can pull pin and adjust.I centered everything and remeasured cpl dozen time and remeasured while tack welding evything.Removved and welded it all up.I did add a brace about mid way with slip tubes and stops on top bars. Works great I hope. Wil know when weather warms back up and I caqn test.
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My wheelie bars use a clevis where the bars attach to the chassis and rod ends out at the wheel. Two upper bars and one lower bar. The lower bar is two pieces with one bar sliding over the other. You can make a vernier out of the hole patterns drilled into the lower bar(s). Depending on which holes you select to pin determines your wheel height. You can also use this scheme to quickly raise the wheelie wheel way up so there are no issues on the return road, jacking the car up or being towed around the pits.
The link below describes the centering process...
http://neilparks.com/technical/wheeliebars.htm
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Appreciate your feedback coupemerc.