Messages

16

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Trans to Rear Coupler Play

« on: March 27, 2017, 06:49:47 PM »

I run a trans mount and have no issues. I run a T 400, these are very heavy and with power, cracking the bell housing is very common. I run the JW bell attached by the pump bolts 5/16. With the heavy trans the threads can be pulled out of the case so a mount is needed. I run a bi-pod mount- stand, clamped to the X  the bolts are left finger tight at the trans.
 Van

17

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Where to Start

« on: March 13, 2017, 09:35:44 PM »

This is my car that my long time friend and driver, Keven, and I built. It is definitely fast, cheap and safe. We ran 7.11 @189 at the March meet in 7.0 Pro. We're running very detuned to keep it in the 7's.
Junkyard Dana 60 rear, 3.50 gear
Turbo 400 trans
Junkyard 460 Ford block, 1970

Van

18

Jon's Wheel House / Re: front runner heights

« on: February 11, 2017, 12:47:39 AM »

Jon is right if you have the spoke -wires they are real narrow. I have three sets of spun aluminum dragster fronts and all are around 2.5 and running the normal front runners just doesn't look right. I will never go back to those tiny Moped tires now that real speed rated motorcycle tires exist in 17's

19

Jon's Wheel House / Re: front runner heights

« on: February 10, 2017, 02:27:38 PM »

I was looking for front tires to run on the 17 dragster wheel & came up with not using the little moped tires, but using one of the many hi speed rated MC tires of a wider and taller size. Talking with Jon we decided on a tire and he dropped them off at my shop. These are really the look and height & width I wanted without going to a larger wheel. I put these on my Altered, now I will soon order another set maybe a little smaller for the dragster. Jon I know that you are REAL old but you should remember this.
 

20

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: offset grind crankshaft

« on: September 23, 2016, 06:07:00 PM »

Mike  The easy way is to have the rocker shafts ground down and then Hard Chrome back to std. Best to use the 57=58 shafts and stands as they have the extra end stands {if my memory is working}, run the stock rockers and Smith Bros. Adjustable pushrods. I have ran the stock cam core and had it reground into a race grind = solid flat tappet. 

 Almost forgot  before grinding the crank, groove the mains so the rods oil 360

21

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: offset grind crankshaft

« on: September 23, 2016, 09:27:11 AM »

The Olds engine with a 4.125 bore and 3.95 stroke is 422 CID. A gain of 28 CI. over the stock 3.688 stroke. Is that worth several thousand dollars? I would look at getting the engine to breath better before spending $$$$ on a stroker crankshaft. Again just my 2 cents.

  My 2 cents says, He can buy a off the shelf forged 400 SBC piston & a BBC  aftermarket rod & re bush the pin end to SBC size and off set stroke the crank. At .060 over bore & stroking I think 440 is more what can be had.  The stock rebuilder pistons are not cheap and the stock rod is no good for HP use. My local crank shop offsets cranks for me at $250 max, I had him offset a few Cast 460 Ford cranks last year. The Olds crank is Forged, and like I've already said this was the norm back when the Olds was raced. To try and have any success with the Olds using stock rods and rebuilder pistons is not going to work. This is not a SBC  The racing world already has to many of them   

22

Matt Shaff's Engine Shop / Re: offset grind crankshaft

« on: September 22, 2016, 06:25:23 PM »

i been in touch with tony. he has been very helpful. but my question is should i go ahead and do the offset grind and whatever goes with that comb. or just bore the shxxx out of it and be done. will i gain that much hp offset grind. over over bore and have 4oo plus ci. getting the parts is not the problem.

 I ran the 394 olds on blown gas & had a lot of fun with it. Back then every one off set stroked and used the 57-58 journal size, which is the same as Pontiac & 354-331 Chrysler. Today every one that strokes a big block typically uses Big block Chevy journal & so should you. The 394 is a fun & cheap motor to build, best head is the #23  1964 head. To run big valves you will need to use offset guides to move the valves apart.  use the 64 front cover as its aluminum, unless Tony makes a race cover.  If you want to do this on the cheap  use a 400 SBC stroker piston & do the math on rod length & stroke to go with the piston. All you will need is a flat top or small dome.  I don't know why all this Olds info is still stuck in my head ?

23

Altereds / Re: used altered

« on: September 19, 2016, 06:34:09 PM »

First thing you need to know the chassis requirements needed to install a 385 series Ford in a dragster or altered, The motor needs to be just about level or at most 1/2 degree down. the frame at the motor plate must be 19 1/2 minimum inside the top rails, I prefer 20.  I build my own cars at home, all my cars have pro taged 5.99 or faster on the first inspection. Home built cars are not highly regarded on this form, I guess !!  If you would like a little inspiration please go to facebook and search Nightmare Dragster and or Nightmare racing. Yes I race the 460
 
 Van 

24

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Coupler end play?

« on: August 18, 2016, 12:20:13 PM »

My problem is the same as Glen's. There is no sign of movement near frame saddles. Pinion is we're it is supposed to be. What did you do about front travel during deceleration?

 To stop front travel - drop a piece of round plastic (Delran or nylon) inside the trans coupler, this uses the end of the trans shaft and the inside of the coupler to stop forward movement. I have made them a tight fit so they engage the splines when lightly driven in. Even a hole saw and an old car tire will make one. No rocket science needed.

25

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Coupler end play?

« on: August 17, 2016, 09:15:44 AM »

Slipping a plastic or wood dowel inside the trans coupler as suggested works great. I really like a soft plastic dowel.   

26

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: engine location

« on: August 09, 2016, 10:24:00 PM »

I put my motor at 48 & if I was going to do it again it would be 52 - 54

27

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Front-Engine Dragster Appreciation Day

« on: August 08, 2016, 09:06:05 AM »

I woke up this morning thinking that today was just going to be another work day, but now " it's a special day for the group I'm proud to be part of "  Happy FED day to everyone !!!
 Van

28

Your Builds / Photo Gallery / Re: Glenn's dragster thread

« on: August 05, 2016, 09:45:08 PM »

We run the Ford with a very clean idle & do not use the transbrake. Our 60ft's are 1.12 - 1.14 and this is with real bad tire shake. I use a very tight converter. I'm going to go with a 13 X 32  the 16 X 33 on the car now are just to big, I had them and ran them to just get a direction to go before I spent $.
 I have been running a unstriped low boost blower, now I will put on my good 871 & more overdrive with new tires. I have never felt the need to stage at any RPM other than idle with a blown car & our 60 ft. times have always been pretty good. Glenn have you tried leaving from idle ?

29

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Not sure whats going on.

« on: July 30, 2016, 10:02:02 AM »

Van,  what mags were your buddies running went they came to start and they were dead ?  Mags with points ? Spud makes some better points for those mags.

 Hi Jon
 All of the times I've seen a no fire was with the Funny cars at the March meet or the Saturday nite nitro. I know the Funny cars must run the points mags. None of those guys are buddies & I couldn't even name names, just what I've observed as it happened. Most everyone knows about the points mags killing the points & the smart guys have upgraded to the new system Spud now offers. To bad it took 35 years to see that fix come around. Mag guys are very defensive about their mags and love to say     THROW A MAG ON IT    most have one or two spares in the trailer *** except Bruse*** . I don't hate on mags, I just want to see real solid reasoning to put mags at the top of the ignition food chain, then we will all know that the high percentage of racers using battery systems are doing it all wrong.

30

Front Engine Dragsters / Re: Not sure whats going on.

« on: July 26, 2016, 06:20:04 PM »

Don't throw a mag on it and don't worry about it. Mags die & their coils do to. In the last 4 years I've seen at least 8 times a blown car came to the start line at Bakersfield and The mag was dead. There is a video on the 6.0 Altered site showing a mag coil going up in flames recently. Point is nothing is going to be 100% reliable.  I run a MSD 10  (ancient)
we recently did 6 startups and 5 runs & charged the battery once. I start and run on one 12 volt Optima. Some day I might run a mag again but not to just- not worry about it.