Author Topic: wheelie bars  (Read 36530 times)

Offline ss4

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 98
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 5.42 @ 128 - 1/8th
  • Your Track: Northern Michigan Dragway
  • Your Vehicle: Worm Inc. 180 inch Front Engine Dragster
wheelie bars
« on: February 06, 2014, 11:25:21 AM »
Not planning to run wheelies, but if I find the need I would like to have the mounts on before painting.  would anyone share photos of what they have done.  I am looking at a 3 bar design the would have 2 bottom bars and 1 top bar.  I am concerned however if a bar were to break it would come through my back.  thoughts?
if you need to Hate target Laziness

Offline ricci32

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 142
    • View Profile
  • Your Engine: sbc ,gas, 358cid
  • Your Track: Lebanon Valley
  • Your Vehicle: Vintage style FED
Re: wheelie bars
« Reply #1 on: February 06, 2014, 12:19:05 PM »
Check out Dragster supply on line they sell a awsome kit at a great price give David Beard a call.

Offline masracingtd1167

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1138
  • bill masiello Shelton Ct.
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 7.40's at 181 on motor 6.94 at 192 nitrous
  • Your Engine: 394 chevy
  • Your Track: Lebanon Valley Dragway
  • Your Vehicle: 2003 Neil and Parks
Re: wheelie bars
« Reply #2 on: February 06, 2014, 12:25:49 PM »
I would think you would want to do it the opposite way with the single bar on the bottom . I also think you would be better off starting out with the bar on the car . You can always take it off later .
« Last Edit: February 06, 2014, 12:28:54 PM by masracingtd1167 »

Offline coupemerc

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 307
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 3.86@188 (1/8 Mile), 5.97@233 (1/4 Mile)
Re: wheelie bars
« Reply #3 on: February 06, 2014, 03:11:13 PM »
FWIW I agree with Bill's statement above. That is the voice of experience speaking. You want the two bars on top and it is best to go out with the bars on the car. I have almost flipped one over backwards without bars. Not fun! I'll let Roo have the last word...

Offline ricardo1967

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 578
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: No full pass yet.
  • Your Engine: Alky SBC 400
  • Your Track: Brown County Dragway (Bean Blossom, IN)
  • Your Vehicle: 173" FED
Re: wheelie bars
« Reply #4 on: February 06, 2014, 04:04:41 PM »
ss4,

Please watch this video...



I do have the wheelie bars, an old two-wheel design. It didn't help at all that I left them in the trailer!

Offline Keven

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 24
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 7.11 @ 189.39 mph 1/4 mile
  • Your Engine: 552 c.i. Ford injected nitro / blown alcohol
  • Your Track: Bakersfield
  • Your Vehicle: 200" FED
  • General Location: So Cal
Re: wheelie bars
« Reply #5 on: February 06, 2014, 07:16:34 PM »
We chose to go with single top bar and two on the bottom with a wide stance at the wheels. The tabs on the chassis are 1/4" thick with 3/8" grade 8 bolts, bars are  1 1/4" .065. Very stout and believe me we use them every pass, never had any issues with this set up.

Offline George

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 518
    • View Profile
  • Your Vehicle: 1964 Mercury Comet Super Stock/ M automatic
  • General Location: Midwest USA
Re: wheelie bars
« Reply #6 on: February 07, 2014, 03:30:46 AM »
I depend on some flex in my wheelie bar setup. If they were too rigid the car would lift the front end, hit the bars and then drop the front and upset the car. Length, angles and pipe size will determine how the wheelie bar works, along with car balance/ballast.
« Last Edit: February 09, 2014, 12:20:02 PM by George »

Offline rooman

  • Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 559
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 6.200/222.05 (1/4 mile--NT/F)
Re: wheelie bars
« Reply #7 on: February 07, 2014, 04:41:29 AM »
I use a three bar single wheel package with the single bar on the bottom where it is in tension. Weld clevis and 3/16" tab at the chassis end, about 6' from the frame to the wheel. Most of mine have 1.125" upper bars and 1.125/1.00 for the lower with the 1.125 on the chassis end and the 1.00 on the slider. I usually use the same McKinney adjuster as the big show guys as it can quickly be fine tuned on the start line without a wrench. As George noted some flex in the bar will stop the car shocking the chassis if it hits at the step.





Here is the same basic package on an altered.



Roo
Yeah, I am from the south--any further south and I would have been a bloody penguin.

Offline GlennLever

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2058
    • View Profile
    • The Lever Family Site
  • Your Best Time: 1/4 mile 7.950 at 165 MPH
  • Your Engine: Pontiac 461 Alky Blown
  • Your Track: Empire Dragway, NY
  • Your Vehicle: Front Engine Dragster
Re: wheelie bars
« Reply #8 on: February 07, 2014, 06:29:35 AM »
This is what Roo Man did on mine. It was done after the body had been built because I was going faster. I originally ran without one.

The first shot is actually at the same track, but at a different time.

The second is at our local track
« Last Edit: February 07, 2014, 06:32:11 AM by GlennLever »
Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
My Cars https://www.lever-family-racing.com/

Offline ss4

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 98
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 5.42 @ 128 - 1/8th
  • Your Track: Northern Michigan Dragway
  • Your Vehicle: Worm Inc. 180 inch Front Engine Dragster
Re: wheelie bars
« Reply #9 on: February 07, 2014, 08:56:48 AM »
thanks for all the great input.  so are the mounts single or double shear?  hard to see in the photos
if you need to Hate target Laziness

Offline GlennLever

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2058
    • View Profile
    • The Lever Family Site
  • Your Best Time: 1/4 mile 7.950 at 165 MPH
  • Your Engine: Pontiac 461 Alky Blown
  • Your Track: Empire Dragway, NY
  • Your Vehicle: Front Engine Dragster
Re: wheelie bars
« Reply #10 on: February 07, 2014, 09:28:48 AM »
Single attachment point, double on the wheely bar
Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
My Cars https://www.lever-family-racing.com/

Offline rooman

  • Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 559
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 6.200/222.05 (1/4 mile--NT/F)
Re: wheelie bars
« Reply #11 on: February 07, 2014, 11:15:24 AM »
thanks for all the great input.  so are the mounts single or double shear?  hard to see in the photos

I use a slotted weld clevis so there is no adjustability of the lateral wheel location to get messed up.

Scroll down this page to see them at the bottom of the third photo.  http://www.neilparks.com/chassis/tubing.htm

Roo
Yeah, I am from the south--any further south and I would have been a bloody penguin.

Offline Totally T

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 147
    • View Profile
    • NDRL
Re: wheelie bars
« Reply #12 on: February 07, 2014, 08:55:56 PM »
This would be toooooo much flex.

Troy Wilson
Nostalgia Drag Racing League

Offline slingshot383

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 146
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 1/4 mi. 7.95 @ 168
  • Your Engine: Chrysler, alcohol, 528 cu.in.
  • Your Track: Gateway Motorsports Park (the Swamp)
  • Your Vehicle: Undercover Chassis 23T altered
Re: wheelie bars
« Reply #13 on: February 09, 2014, 05:56:27 AM »
Single top bar is a no no, if the mount ever broke, you will get speared!  Two upper bars, single lower, length about 1/3 of wheelbase, bottom attach point even with lower frame rails.
Undercover 23T Altered, big block Mopar
Member of the Torque and Recoil Club

Offline Van

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 116
    • View Profile
  • Your Best Time: 7.11 @ 189 with this car
  • Your Engine: Lincoln blown alky 534
  • Your Track: Bakersfield Ca.
  • Your Vehicle: Dragster
  • General Location: west coast
Re: wheelie bars
« Reply #14 on: February 09, 2014, 09:39:55 PM »
Take a look at the pic (red car) in Roo's post. I could be said that if one or both top mounts broke the driver could also be injured. To make a truly safer set of bars, you would want to move both upper bars out to the widest possible point on the chassis. mounting the lower bar - bars- even lower than the driver to more avoid any injury there. remember in a crash the lower bar might not be in tension.  We will be keeping ours the way they are. I am not telling anyone how to make their bars as anyone who does so could be making a big mistake. Keven just posted a pic as was asked for by the OP. Keven nor I would want it to be a "you should do it this way" reply
 In line with the driver being injured by bars entering the drivers compartment, I agree with SFI making changes to wing mounting over the drivers head. Perhaps wheelie bar mounting will be next in line for change.