Author Topic: Power+weight+time.  (Read 6121 times)

Offline Curly1

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Re: Power+weight+time.
« Reply #15 on: January 19, 2019, 07:52:12 PM »
These days  Engine angle has zero affect unless you were way out of the park to begin with. Engine angle is the result of the relationship to how far the motor is out from the rear end to the front oil pan clearence. We are raising the front of the motor these days so that you dont tear up the diaper.  Building a new chassis right now, motors out 55" and the crank snout is 10" of the deck, I dont care what the motor angle is

That is my thinking but part of reason I am changing engine and is to keep from tearing up pan and diaper. I really think my biggest problem is too much weight up front for my combination. Thanks,

Offline Paul New

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Re: Power+weight+time.
« Reply #16 on: January 19, 2019, 09:35:40 PM »
I would like for others in particular Jon Hayden to add front weights as I think it is critical to making these animals work. Mine was 1730 with 389 on front and simply was not hooking up. So it is back at chassis shop making a bunch of changes. We are moving weight back and changing engine angle from 2.7 down to .5 approx.

The actual weight on my car is 1795lbs with 432lbs on the nose

Offline AF150

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Re: Power+weight+time.
« Reply #17 on: January 20, 2019, 08:44:10 AM »
Our combination: 200" FED, 365 cu. in. Blown Chrysler on alcohol. Engine level and 44" out. Weighed 1680 ready to race (1260 rear, 420 front). Ran on a 4.65 sec. 1/8th mile index. With 6-71 running 10% underdrive, we run the number @ 150mph. Same set-up ran 7.30s in 1/4 mile @ 180mph. Guess we were making around 850 hp but what was really important was tires, converter and starting line RPM. Good 60' time is
needed. Ours was around 1.10 sec.   I think 140" WB is too short for a serious FED these days considering tire,engine, trans/converter/clutch technology available now.
MB

Offline JrFuel Hayden

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Re: Power+weight+time.
« Reply #18 on: January 20, 2019, 10:28:28 AM »
" Simply not hooking up" is more complicated than car weight vs front end weight. Our 1435 lb car has 320 lb front end weight.
If you are running a poweglide you may have too tight of a converter , the looser the stall,  the easier it hits the tire , you might have too high a 1'st gear like 1.90-1.80, we have a 1.68 1'st gear, your engine combo could have a high torque set up,  again it will hit the tire hard, you could be hitting the wheely bar and unloading the slicks, your slicks could be too old and hard. Also rim width makes a difference, we ran 10" wide on 12" wide slick [ max for our JF class] then moved to 11" rim , then again moved to 12" rim as I changed the power
And you thought you were asking an easy question ?
Jon C. Hansen

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Offline Curly1

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Re: Power+weight+time.
« Reply #19 on: January 20, 2019, 01:20:41 PM »
Wow! Thanks for the responses! I hope this does not side track original post too much but here we go. I do have a powerglide with 1.80 gears. 4.30 rear gear and 6400 stall, shift at 7600 peak horsepower is 760 @ 7500 RPM. New 3074 MT tire 14 x 32 and it is not hitting wheelie bar. Same motor, tire, transmission and rear gear worked great in my 1800 Lbs 125 inch altered. In the new 225 inch dragster spins, hooks, spins. Front tires pop up maybe an inch then right back down. I think it needs to have enough power or weight moved that it can carry front wheels out a ways to keep rear tires planted. This car may work perfect with 300 more horsepower?  I started off with 389 lbs on the front and it did not work so I moved stuff around and was able to get it to 369 on the front and it seemed to help a little but not nearly enough. So now it is chassis shop again and trying some things different. Moving battery back to back of car. Making new smaller fuel cell and moving it back maybe 6 feet.  Hoping that I can get front weight down around 320 lbs much more than that would require major changes just not worth it. (Cheaper than adding 300 HP!) I am running a 5.0 1/8 mile index and the et is right but I need to make car hook consistently every time.
So here is my thinking and tell me if I am wrong. My thinking is with a 225 inch chassis (lever) it is very critical to have the power and weight right to make it work.  I am also thinking with the longer chassis it needs to be lighter up front to work right unless you have a lot of power.

Offline gtpete

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Re: Power+weight+time.
« Reply #20 on: January 21, 2019, 10:45:56 AM »
Thanks for the replys guys some good info there. Especially the weights. You guys run some real quick cars. I'm hoping to get into the tens !!! Real slow by your standards. Does anybody run in the 9/10s ??

Offline StigO

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Re: Power+weight+time.
« Reply #21 on: January 22, 2019, 11:22:17 AM »
Like Jon says not hooking up is complicated. In my experience it's hard to believe that a FED is to heavy on front end, usually it's the opposite problem.
Run 6,5 sec in 1/4 mile with 1,00 60and a controlled but not perfect tire spin. Have try multiple tires, rims, gear ratios, transmission ratios, converters and still fighting the launch.
When my car spins to hard its a result of to hard first hit and planting the tire to hard which makes them spin.

Offline buickfed

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Re: Power+weight+time.
« Reply #22 on: January 22, 2019, 02:41:05 PM »
190", 4.10's and m/t 33x10.5-15's. 350 buick with a 471. when we added the 471, it went about 70* up and broke the f/end. fixed and added 30lbs up front AND w/bars. 60's around 1.3' and 9.0@147. making new brackets for 60lbs. w/bars are pain to put on and off.

Offline gtpete

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Re: Power+weight+time.
« Reply #23 on: January 24, 2019, 11:59:07 AM »
Thanks for the reply BuickFED sounds like a cool ride. Still no one with a 10 second car ??

Offline noslin

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Re: Power+weight+time.
« Reply #24 on: January 24, 2019, 04:56:32 PM »
Thanks for the reply BuickFED sounds like a cool ride. Still no one with a 10 second car ??

1600lb car only needs 350hp to run 10.0.   id think a bone stock 350 could at least make that much.   throw in some convertor slip and whatever and your 10.2x?   

Offline Roger

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Re: Power+weight+time.
« Reply #25 on: January 24, 2019, 07:14:37 PM »
While its not a FED, my altered ran a best of 6.81 in the 1/8 mile at about 1620# with an almost stock 350 SBC and a 2100 stall convertor. That is about a 10.50 in the mile. Engine had 86,000 miles on it with a small cam (idled at 700rpm, 14 of vacuum), a high-rise and 600cfm carb. It was slow but VERY consistent:)

Offline gtpete

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Re: Power+weight+time.
« Reply #26 on: January 25, 2019, 10:49:07 AM »
Thanks for the replies guys, keep em coming. I should hope that my 351W should make between 400/450hp and as long as its not too heavy should get me down to the low tens. I would be very happy if I could run a 9:90  ;D

Offline buickfed

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Re: Power+weight+time.
« Reply #27 on: January 25, 2019, 04:02:20 PM »
don't confuse the chevy 350, which they make a ton of everything, with the buick 350, which I make or modify other parts. we may be lighter but not faster.

Offline Oldford 65

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Re: Power+weight+time.
« Reply #28 on: January 27, 2019, 05:55:47 PM »
My FED is 184 and weighs 1480 with a 350 Chevy, not much done to it. It runs 9.6@136.  1.3 60 ft. Still tuning on it.

Offline SaltandPepper

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Re: Power+weight+time.
« Reply #29 on: January 28, 2019, 05:31:47 AM »
165" FED with a 327, first year running was pretty consistent at mid 9s, 140-143mph. Plan to weigh it this spring but estimate around 1650lbs. If I wasn't so green at the wheel I feel it could get into the low 9s with better reaction time and proper shifting.