Technical > Spud Miller's Cave

4 port questions

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L79_Acadian:
Hi Spud,
 I hate to be such a pain in the butt, but I am going to try this again. First off, the 4 port is going onto a 33 Willys gasser show car, running on gas. The motor is a .060 over 392 Hemi, with a hydraulic blower cam & a (5% over driven) 6-71 blower. I want to go with a more period correct setup on top of the blower, so I purchased a used short Hilborn 4 port. The spool in the barrel valve is a old #25. I also bought a bunch of parts from a toilet style system, that gave me 8, #14A 90' nozzles, a Enderle 80A.1 pump, a small barrel valve with a #54 spool and a bunch of bypass and pill holders. Now the questions, first off I took both spools out of their barrel valves and measured them. They are both the same length and diameter, so I put the #54 spool into the hilborn barrel valve. I also plan on drilling and tapping 4 additional holes in the Hilborn barrel valve to feed all 8 (14A) nozzles that I put into the 4 port. I plan on remote driving the pump to feed the 4 port.
 I know that mechanical injection doesn't work on the street, but this is more of a trailered show car than a driven street car, Will this setup work, and if so, any idea on where to start with the pill, springs, shims etc.?
 I know I'm a pain, but I am determined to get this project to work, with out resorting to a EFI system.
 Thanks again for your thoughts and knowledge,
  Roger

L79_Acadian:
 Really, nobody else has any ideas n tis setup? I have a stack injected, on Alcohol, small block Chevy in my dragster. so I have messed around with mechanical injection. I'm just looking for someone with a similar setup to send some advice to help me get this started.
  Thanks all,
              Roger

Spud Miller:

 Hi Roger,

 If you're just idling it off a trailer or doing shows with it you can certainly set it up to do that well. In that case, the pill is mostly irrelevant...it's really only important if you're WOT. If you're using 8 ea. #14 nozzles, then I'd put a .100 main in it (things calculate out to be a .110 in 2000' air)

 Use the #54 spool (it has a secondary hole and the #25 doesn't). Set the check valve on the secondary port (no pill) to about 7 PSI.

 Set the main check valve (with the main pill in it) to about 5 PSI.

 I'd set the butterflies to about .005" and the leak down to 40% and fire it up. Lean the barrel valve until you're seeing 400F or so on the exhaust. When you poke the throttle, it shouldn't bog or stumble. If it does either and you're not seeing a puff of black smoke when you poke it, then richen it a bit. If it acts poorly and makes a big cloud of soot, then lean it.

 If you're getting a puff and it doesn't respond well, you might need to boost the pressure of both check valves a few pounds. I wouldn't do that unless you need to though or you could just end up fouling a bunch of spark plugs.

 Let us know how it goes!
 Spud

dreracecar:

--- Quote from: L79_Acadian on April 03, 2017, 02:40:20 PM --- Really, nobody else has any ideas n tis setup? I have a stack injected, on Alcohol, small block Chevy in my dragster. so I have messed around with mechanical injection. I'm just looking for someone with a similar setup to send some advice to help me get this started.
  Thanks all,
              Roger

--- End quote ---

 Most all the people on this board run Alc and the set-up is completely different for gas as to why nobody chimed in except for Spud

L79_Acadian:
 Thanks Spud.
I did learn something last night. Hilborn barrel valves are hardened after they are machined. I tried to drill 4 additional holes into the side of the barrel valve to feed the back side 4 nozzles, but struck out. That thing is hard as heck.
 Spud, I will now have to go with 4 #28, 90 degree nozzles, do you have them for sale?
 Thanks again Spud,
   Roger

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