Author Topic: Rear to trans  (Read 5469 times)

Offline gasserx

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Rear to trans
« on: January 07, 2015, 12:55:30 AM »
Im going through all bolts on the chassis, and many are loose... some im able to turn by hand. So everything needs to be re-tightened.

In the picture i need to tighten up the ones with allen heads that connects to the PG.
Should i use any specific torque? Do you guys use locktite on them, or should i leave it?


Offline bikeguy307

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Re: Rear to trans
« Reply #1 on: January 07, 2015, 10:23:58 AM »
Im unable to view your picture on my phone so not sure which bolts your refering to. But bolts and normally torqued by size so thats a safe place to start. My big concern is you have several bolts loose in different locations, some extremely loose. I would be looking for a vibration problem. Something has got to be shaking them loose. I will look a your picture and give a torque spec when I get home.

Offline 14DRT

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Re: Rear to trans
« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2015, 11:46:00 AM »
Loctite 222 (low Strength) for cast aluminum.
Using a higher strength like 242 can result in damaged threads when you try to remove them !
242 is for Steel & S/S and Not recommended for Aluminum, as per tech sheet........ I learned the hard way !!!
http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/files/File/A_FastenerTorqueCharts.pdf

Offline bikeguy307

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Re: Rear to trans
« Reply #3 on: January 07, 2015, 06:35:54 PM »
Ok a grade 5 3/8 16 bolt should be torqued to 30/40 ft/lbs. And if you choose to use lock tight the above info should be used in choosing what to use.

Hope this helps,
Dan

And thanks for the great info 14DRT!!

Offline gasserx

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Re: Rear to trans
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2015, 12:20:09 AM »
Thanks guys!
I usually use the blue/soft locktite for stuff that needs to be removed and re-tightened regulary. The green stuff is wild..think i`ve used it only a couple of times over the years. Easily ruins threads if not used properly.

What is that chromed part in the picture anyway? Is it just a housing?
Also one more question - can i block of the transbrake solenoid? Im not going to use it.
As said before, never wrenched much on American built transmissions, axles, engines etc... Most european stuff, so again, sorry for any stupid questions.

Checked a lot of other bolts and nuts yesterday, and many are still nice and tight. Steering was rediculous... before i removed the body i thought the steeringbox was ruined - turned steering wheel 1/2 turn before wheels moved  :o But it was just the brackets that was loose, new locknuts and tighten up, problem solved.



Offline bikeguy307

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Re: Rear to trans
« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2015, 07:03:46 PM »
Kinda hard to tell from your picture if your chrome piece bolts on to anything other than the trans. It looks to be a cover for the drive shaft just to keep things from getting into the shaft. If it bolts to the chassis it could be being used as a limiter.

As far the blocking/removing the solenoid it depends on if it's a pro brake or not. If it's a pro brake you will need to use the solenoid to back up so blocking/removing is not an option. If it's a standard brake then you can remove the solenoid and install a modulator plug, be sure to leave the brake valve and spring in the trans.

Hope this helps,

Dan

Offline gasserx

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Re: Rear to trans
« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2015, 11:53:10 PM »
Thanks a lot Dan! Guess i`ll have to unbolt it then and have a look, good to know what the purpose of it is  :)
Nice to learn all the details about the car.