Author Topic: Dry block  (Read 8628 times)

Offline Graygoat

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Dry block
« on: July 19, 2014, 09:26:12 PM »
I'm currently running a 355SBC, I'm thinking of removing the radiator and run a dry block. I run methanol and never had a heat problem. Can anybody give me the pros and cons of doing this.

Offline George

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Re: Dry block
« Reply #1 on: July 20, 2014, 04:24:40 AM »
I'm currently running a 355SBC, I'm thinking of removing the radiator and run a dry block. I run methanol and never had a heat problem. Can anybody give me the pros and cons of doing this.

I started a thread on spark plug indexing. If you read it to the end Jon Hansen posts some good information on your question. http://www.frontenginedragsters.org/forum/index.php?topic=312.15

My take on it is: you can run it dry or run water and manage the temp by draining and refilling after a run ( block and heads). I built a system as Jon describes , I added block heaters to allow a thorough heat soak before I started the engine. I also added an immersion style oil heater in the pan. It worked very well.

George

dreracecar

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Re: Dry block
« Reply #2 on: July 20, 2014, 09:00:02 AM »
If you are running alu heads, without the water the area of the heads between the center exhaust valves will colaspe and you will get crossfire between the cylinders

Offline Curly1

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Re: Dry block
« Reply #3 on: July 27, 2014, 05:29:38 AM »
I run a very small Honda racing radiator from EBay and use fairly small hoses (-10). Cost about $75 with fan and shipping, works great and does not weigh much even full of water. If I remember right the radiator was under 10 lbs full of water. You still have water in the lines and block but it works great.

Personally I would not run one with out a radiator even if it is very small. I do not want hot spots or torched head gaskets or loss of power due to inconsistent temps.

Offline JrFuel Hayden

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Re: Dry block
« Reply #4 on: July 27, 2014, 11:12:41 PM »
Curly, are you running a radiator because you burn gas, or drive your racecar back from the track to your pit ?
If you are burning alky, your car will run faster if your motor is hot, 180° to 200° if you still run water, or 150-170° if dry.
If you are running fuel injection, lean your barrel valve to build more heat.
I run water just in my iron heads and iron block in my alky JFueler [ no pump or radiator] , running 7.00's @188 mph with 16;1 compression with no head gasket issues since I started running Cometic 3 pc gaskets.
If you are not sure if your motor is running too hot, next time you pull your heads off, look for black spots on your cylinder walls, if you have black marks, that is where is was red at onetime.

Good Luck, have Fun !
Jon
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Offline fedonnitro

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Re: Dry block
« Reply #5 on: July 28, 2014, 02:31:46 PM »
Gray, we have had a lot of success with our blown alky deal with no coolant. When we ran a stock GM block for several years but it started moving around some and got to where it wouldn't stay true (round or flat). But I don't know how many highway miles or heat cycles it had before we got it. We purchased a new Dart block and have had very good luck with it. It doesn't even have freeze plugs in it anywhere. It could be our tuneup or just 3 1/2 years of good luck but every time it comes apart for maintenance it shows no signs of heat related issues. We drag it to the staging lanes and also back to the pits after a pass. I use copper head gaskets and have O-rings in the Brodix Track 1 aluminum heads and receivers in the block but is is also only a 4.030 bore. 2014 will complete the 3rd year on those gaskets. It makes 23-25 pounds of boost normally and gets shifted at 7000 and goes through the 1/4 mile lights at @ 8400? Can't see the tach clearly and we don't use a data recorder. Plan to use the GoPro in the 1/4 one of these days to see if we can tell where the rpm's are a little better. We have had to make what I consider quick turn arounds (30 min.) for the next round in the past and have good success with consistency. As soon as we return to our pit space we use 2 large fans to assist in cooling it down and I also have an odd quirk about pulling the valve covers off every time to help get heat out and check the valvetrain even though I don't have to. I'm weird I guess and my wife attributes it to her claim of me having OCD. Hog wash I say!!

Carl

Offline Curly1

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Re: Dry block
« Reply #6 on: August 02, 2014, 06:36:30 PM »
Curly, are you running a radiator because you burn gas, or drive your racecar back from the track to your pit ?
If you are burning alky, your car will run faster if your motor is hot, 180° to 200° if you still run water, or 150-170° if dry.
If you are running fuel injection, lean your barrel valve to build more heat.
I run water just in my iron heads and iron block in my alky JFueler [ no pump or radiator] , running 7.00's @188 mph with 16;1 compression with no head gasket issues since I started running Cometic 3 pc gaskets.
If you are not sure if your motor is running too hot, next time you pull your heads off, look for black spots on your cylinder walls, if you have black marks, that is where is was red at onetime.

Good Luck, have Fun !
Jon

I run an Enderle hat on alcohol and bracket race. Still I would not run with out a radiator even if it is a small heater core just something to circulate and allow you to control it better.